jonnyt80

Looking at those logs you definatly have a fuelling issue. If your adding more fuel in the table and the AFR is staying constant on the WB then you need to check base line pressure under load. If it drops off theres either a restriction or the pump isnt up to the job.

It all depends what you want to achieve. As iv said the stock trigger system has seen good hp but alot happens in between timing marks. Yes the ecu will receive more information back from the disc than it would from the stock disc. If you plan on a big hp build then add your trigger disc in now and tune to suit. If you plan on only keeping it around stage 1 up to around 400hp i wouldnt bother adding the trigger disc and run the OEM trigger pattern

If you want to go down the aftermarket trigger disc route you would be better off going 36-1 minimum or 60-2 12 tooth wheel will work fine and give better info back to the ecu than stock but i believe you would be better going 36-1. On another note what is the spec of the car and what is it used for? The stock trigger has been proven to work well on high power applications even on the stock ecu.

I have a similar issue on mine and the timing is very stable at idle. It will rise and fall for about 10 secs or so then settle out and idle fine. Just wonder of its some sort of post start fuel/ign decay

Thanks scott. I have tried setting up as you have suggested but no luck as of yet. I will play around with it when i have time next week. Is there anyway other than a sniffer to test the CAN output from the ecu?

Im trying to see if i can get the CAN operated dash to work via the G4+ Xtreme. Now im using CAN2 and wired as per diagrams i have been able to get hold of. I do have some CAN data i found online so how do i go about setting this up? I have used user defined drop down but unsure how to proceed and test I have added a screenshot of the data i have found. Its on a ford mondeo ST220

I mean have you confirmed your trigger 1 and 2 are correct. If your crank and cam signals are not synced the ecu wont know when to fire the injectors

Check your wiring is good to crank and cam sensors. Might be worthwhile swapping the wires over on the crank sensor as the polarity could be wrong

Have you setup your triggers correctly?

ok scrap my last reply

try -284 as per e36 base

have you tried using the e36 base map?

Thanks simon

The same Rampant of MLR fame? Evonut270 here ;-) You can download the manual onto a laptop as I did with my extreme wire in Good choice on the link

Do i still alter the settings in the idle setup apart from 4/6 pin or is it the frequency I need to play with in the aux menu. The car holds idle without idle control on. I had to adjust the butterfly to allow more air in and play with the ign timing but now holds around 850-900. But would like the solenoid operating Thanks

I have a 2 wire idle control valve which im trying to setup. Any pointers as when i go into the settings ats asking for 4 pin or 6 pin only. Cant get it to idle without adjusting the throttlebody

Finally got the car started after finding out the timing settings. Am i right in saying that adjusting the master fuel till it starts is the riht way to go as ther is no base map for my engine. I had to use 24ms master fuel for the car to start. Is there anything else i need before i start dialling idle in etc

I will look into it. It does seem to run and rev clean on the current setup but i know its not ideal. Fact i have it running is a bonus and something to build on. Thanks for the help

You may need to wire it as per firing order but you would need to confirm the wiring

Hi scott. I have managed to get the car to start today on multipoint group once id figured out my trigger offset but I will try and get it to start on sequential eventually. Problem is there is only 1 pickup on the rh ex cam so it will need to be cam pulse x1, will see if it starts with the factory sensor on the ford xr6 trigger setting if not ill need to be creative with the sensor to close the gap to boost the pickup voltage

Scott this sounds good It doesnt have VVT. Its a 3.0 v6 Duratec and the cam sensor gap is big which is probably why the signal is weak on crank. Ill need to count the teeth on the cam sprocket to confirm. Which trigger setup is it you have

Thanks scott This engine has no timing reference on the crank pulley but have painted a mark for TDC on it and the timing housing. Also the timing wheel is within the cover so its a nightmare trying to guess. The cam trigger sensor is fixed so i will need to come up with a solution to close the gap as its currently a bit wide for my liking but it works this way from factory. It is setup for group fire at the minute and i have carried out ignition tests and injector tests to make sure my wiring was good. Im at the point now of getting it ready to start so looking for the best route to take as it appears theres no info anywhere on tuning this engine via aftermarket

Not been on the car for a while so going back to basics as my wiring seems to be ok. What is the best way in order to setup the offset for the crank trigger. Its a 36-1 setup and the missing teeth seem to pass the sensor by around 70 degrees before TDC. Would this be a good place to start? It will be running group fire until i can sort out the cam trigger gap which is fixed so will need to address this. Just trying to get my head around this as there is no base available and no one seems to have fitted a link to a duratec v6

Simon There is a few pdfs online with various injector data just really depends which your using Cheers John

Turn your fuelling off and check your timing with a light as it winds over and see if it holds steady.