Grant Baker
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Posts posted by Grant Baker
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There is a way around the 0.5 step John.
I can show you.
Same for ignition table... If the error is not much the idle table doesn't do much... Numbers that are too big or too small can also cause it to hunt.
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The options for idle control specific to eThrottle are open loop or closed loop.
Open loop should be the one you try first.
Or just bring it over and we will sort it as agreed
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Thanks for the input.
After using HPA in the past, decided to sign them up for that...
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Hi Guys,
Here's one for you...
If you wanted to train up a new employee and get them the basics of engine tuning without spending hours with them first...Would you sign them up to HP Academy or EFI University?
Both seem good and personally I like the HPA seminars etc.
Any opinions?
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See attached logs - one with closed loop and one with open loop.
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I spotted that in the Idle Ignition table just now Scott...
Interestingly, the "0" degrees in the "0" Column is what is in the base map supplied by Link
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Yep - will grab one tomorrow
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Hi Guys,
We've recently done another TT plugin and having some idle control issues...
Set as open or closed loop EThrottle, we get a lot of hunting around the target idle. It's like a pendulum and the amount it swings, or if indeed it swings at all sometimes, is not consistent.
Idle is set at 900RPM and it swings wildly from 700 to 1200.
Sometimes as you slow the car down to a stop the engine stalls.
I've spent about 5 hours on it now and it's driving me mad!
Can anybody spot an obvious mistake (or many mistakes)?
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Sorry - I misunderstood what you said.
So on the G4 pin 73 was AN Volt 1.
On G4+ it is AN Volt 8.
Thank you.
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I believe so yes - they should all be fed by 12v Ign rather than battery. The Fan Relay has perm 12v on pin 30 IIRC.
Will check tomorrow.
Would a different type of relay help?
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So we need to move that pin then to AN Volt 8?
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Stock normal 4 pin relays
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Hi
We have an Xtreme wire in running a fairly normal 4cyl engine. All fine - runs well and everything works as it should... until we turn off the ignition switch.
At this point the main relay and fan relays start pulsing away like mad. Off-On-Off-On etc.
If we disconnect the battery and reconnect they have stopped, until we turn off the engine next time, at which point it happens again.
It seems to be related to the ECU install as it didn't happen before on stock ECU, but can't see what is up.
An pointers?
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Interesting. On my G4 plug in (EVO 4-8) I had AN Volt 1 as Oil pressure and AN Volt 2 as MAP sensor.
I've upgraded to the G4+ and MAP is showing correctly (I have kept the external sensor). What is AN Volt 1 now showing me then?
I have done no wiring changes.
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How about the EVO 4-8?
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Out of interest, which analogue input is assigned to the internal MAP sensor?
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Thanks. Was more interested in price...
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I asked Link about these external controllers.
Can you message me with details?
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Hi there.
On a G4+ Xtreme I have a 4 cyl setup with 4 injectors.
For some reason there are 6 injectors assigned outputs, and when I go in to re-assign injector 5 or 6 to, say, ECU hold power or something, it won't allow me. There is a padlock next to the option.
Any ideas?
EDIT:
Found the answer to this...
Just power the ECU up! This is something that can only be done with the ECU "live".
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Interesting... I decided to go for an Xtreme and wire it in manually.
I've not run it yet if I'm honest, but have run a few 1.8Ts now...
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Thanks Simon.
That's what I suspected...
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In the help files it says otherwise
Search for Trigger 2 Sync Positioning.
On some trigger setups a Trigger 2 Sync is required for the ECU to accurately calculate engine position. Trigger modes Multi-tooth and Multi-tooth / Missing have a setting called Sync Mode that is used to specify the type of Trigger 2 Sync being used. There are some important requirements for the Trigger 2 Sync, failure to follow these requirements may lead to trigger errors occurring and the ECU being unable to calculate the engines position and speed.
Multi-tooth Requirements
· When the Trigger Mode is set to Multi-tooth the sync tooth edge must occur within a green 50% zone as shown in the image below. It does not matter which trigger 1 teeth edges the sync tooth edge falls between. Multi-tooth / Missing Requirements
· When the Trigger Mode is set to Multi-tooth / Missing the sync tooth edge must occur within a green 50% zone as shown in the image below. · The sync tooth edge(s) must also NOT occur in the 'missing tooth gap' or within 30 degrees (crankshaft revolution) of the tooth after the gap. -
Hi,
Has anybody successfully operated a 5 wire stepper motor before?
It's fitted to a Rover T16 (Turbo) Engine.
It has 5 pins (well 6, but only 5 used)
Pin 1 (Channel 1)
Pin 2 +12v
Pin 3 (Channel 2)
Pin 4 (Channel 4)
Pin 5 (Empty)
Pin 6 (Channel 3)
I suspect that internally the 12v supply is split to both pairs of the stepper.
Maximum movement of the stepper motor is 3.75 revolutions, and this is accomplished by 180 steps of 7.5°
Can this be operated by Link?
I assume if I can ascertain which pair is which I can wire it as a 6 pin stepper?
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Hi Guys,
I'm setting up an engine that has a 36/1 crank trigger and a cam trigger with a single tooth.
I've used the help files, but just to confirm...
Crank trigger set so that gap is at (for example) 90 deg BTDC no1.
Cam trigger set so that the tooth edge is at TDC no1 on same cycle. This is 90degrees (or 25%) after the Crank trigger gap.
Is that correct?
Request for Altezza 3SGE turbo base MAP
in G4+
Posted
Out of interest... How did you get on with tuning this?
I'm just doing one now - wondering how the base map supplied worked out with regards to VVT operation and the turbo...? Did you alter the VVT settings much?