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Stevieturbo

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Posts posted by Stevieturbo

  1. What is the question ?

    A front entry TD05 will do 350, maybe a little more at a push, depending on fuel available.

    Standard yellow injectors will be very near their limit at this level.

    An uprated intercooler would be beneficial too.

    You will likely need to port the wastegate on the TD05 to prevent boost creep.

    But as you say a minimum of 350....really, the parts you have are almost maxed out at 350 unless you can make it all work very well and with decent fuel

  2. The LS2 coils with the heat sink discharge at about 5.5-6ms

    But there really is no need or point to run them any higher than 5ms. Even about 90% of cars wont even need that much with the normal older style coils. They are all very powerful units, so keep the dwell well below the automatic discharge time.

  3. Explain what you mean. What m/s are you changing ?

     

    Every coil will be different. Run too much dwell and you risk damage. So if you do not know how much dwell you should have, it's best to stick with lower numbers. Seems in your case the higher dwell is causing the problem, so if it runs better at 3-3.5, then just leave it there !

  4. Depending on the size of the turbo etc, Then making no boost or little power until 3800rpm may be perfectly normal for your setup.

     

    And also dependng on turbo and power, your standard injectors may well be near their limit if you do make decent mnumbers at 15psi.

    Trying other peoples maps under these circumstances is not a good idea, You really need someone competent and experienced to look at it.

  5. What age is the engine ? the trigger wheels changed in 2001 when the new model car came out. You need to select based on that, not what cams are fitted.

     

    How many teeth are on your crank trigger wheel ? Old cars had 6 unevenly spaced. New model cars have 36 in theory, although almost half of them are missing

     

    that's an easy way to identify age.

  6. Just reduce engine coolant temp related fuel compensations as required.

     

    there is no right or wrong. If you reduce them too far, it wont start or run properly when cold. So just increase again slightly.

     

    There is no correct AFR etc, every engine will be different

  7. Dont forget, the coils also need good power to provide spark, and the fuel pump needs power to provide fuel

     

    All the injector dead time in the world wont cope with a fuel pump with no power, and 2v is a huge difference for a pump. If indeed the engine even had 12v when running and no method of charging.

  8. I dont see why AFR is pointless.

    The sensor or ecu doesnt know or care what fuel you are using

    The AFR you see is purely a maths function of Lambda x 14.7. Nothing more, nothing less.

    So if you want say 0.8 lambda, just tune to 11.76 AFR, They are the same regardless of fuel. Ignore the AFR name if it makes it easier, as it means little.

     

    I find it annoying that some ecu's only allow you to display lambda.

     

     

  9. Just use an open bulb thermister  as used in thousands of cars.

     
    They are not expensive by any means. Or contact any decent ecu supplier as they'll have something in stock.
     
    No idea where on planet earth you are, but you should easily get one for around UK£20 and are available in a variety of threaded fitments.
  10. If you want to log EGT, here is a cheap Thermocouple amplifier

     

    http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=185&zenid=9b8f175f932589642651e0a1ef46f1d8

     

    There is little benefit to a larger throttle body unless you're making huge power. 500bhp is easily achieved on the standard TB. TB.

    If you wanted to use a 2001+ TB and ISCV it is a simple affair. It is 3 wire, but that's 12v, signal and ground. so only uses a single ecu output. Not 100% sure how easily it will bolt on, doubt it will be that difficult though. Ive used these on engines making 600+

     

    Again, you simply do not need or want oversize throttle openings.

  11. What exactly is the makeup of the triggering system you are using ?

     

    Does the dizzy provide all triggers, or is there a separate crank sensor too ?

     

    And why on earth are you rotating the dizzy to adjust timing, when you have a fully programmable ecu ?

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