Stevieturbo
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Posts posted by Stevieturbo
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Is the engine even tuned correctly prior to turning closed loop on ?
closed loop is not a fix for bad tuning.
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On 10/25/2018 at 4:39 AM, motomattx said:
It doesnt look all that much more aggressive than the other one to me, the best thing you could do is to run a stock map and datalog your car so everyone can see what areas of the ignition and fuel map are in use, some areas almost never get touched.
It has an extra 7deg of timing in places...assuming all sensor scalings etc are correct and it is running in the correct load cells etc. ( possibly big assumptions ). So yes, it is very much more aggressive than the base map.
Certainly enough that it's destroyed 2 pistons although it could be down to many tuning related factors...but one single incompetent tuner factor.
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A single screenshot without factoring in everything else within the tune means little.
Perhaps even more so as the scalings on the table have also been altered. But you can be sure that if it's busted 2 pistons and was knocking/detonating....maybe choose different friends ?
Or at least never let them near your car again.
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The regular LS3 gold blade ( which is probably same as what you're using ) works fine with boost. And the 90mm blade is quite adequate for up to around 2000hp....( and has been used beyond that )
So it shouldnt be too hard pressed at 6-7s 1/8ths.
But either way logging would show if the blade is not tracking pedal or your desired target.
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On 10/15/2018 at 8:09 PM, Serkan said:
Thanks will check out the Jaycar converter. Would you happen to know what Vauxhall models may have the yellow "relay"? I couldn't find too much info on my ABS sensor but as I understand it has a higher chance of being a passive sensor. Was just thinking if I should just feed it 5v to test if its active and see what happens..
https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/challenge-accepted.274506/page-4#post-2364070
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Jaycar do a speedo corrector, which will convert signals too...and it is cheap.
Or a lot of Vauxhalls have a little yellow "relay" which basically does the same thing. Obviously it isnt a relay, but it is encased as one made by Siemens
Although if you're tagging onto an ABS sensor dont expect the ABS system to remain happy in most cases
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A crankwheel with a TDC reference will suffice for a wasted spark type setup
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Most kits are very similar...so really whatever takes your fancy.
If totally standalone, Aquamist is probably one of the better setups. But Prometh in the US is popular too, or Alky Control.
I'd avoid the push fit pneumatic fittings most use though. Yes they are very handy, but inevitably they will always leak over time and possibly fail. Or if you must use them, be prepared to change fittings every year for example as a maintenance measure.
Or it is easy enough to DIY build your own kit and control it from the ecu.
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https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/adjustable-delay-timer-relay-delay-on-or-off-12v-10a.html
That will allow an easy run on of either after ecu shutdown, although not specifically to a temperature.
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Cam trigger is probably different too ? But no reason that cant be sorted.
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YB ? Easiest is just bolt on an EECIV 36-1 wheel. Or pretty sure places sell similar you can retrofit, but it's easy to DIY that too, or indeed any crank trigger.
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What engine ?
Presumably it has no crank trigger, or another model year of same platform has any you can use ?
24-1, 36-1, or whatever is always better than no missing/reference teeth...simply because of that.
24 teeth is almost meaningless other than for a rotational speed reference...which would be a waste of effort really.
A missing tooth or other similar marker then also gives a specific crank position reference...typically cyl1 TDC ( in case of inline 4 that would be shared 1/4 hence if you want full sequential you then need a phase reference to ID cyl 1 from 1 or 4 )
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In most cases I dont think the power supply is critical
I know when I tested my LS2/3 sensor on the bench I was using either a 5v supply or 9v battery...cant recall which as it was a few years ago but I know it worked fine.
On the car I did use a 12v feed though. Output is still a 5v switch though.
But test, it's easy and only takes a few mins swapping wires.
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It's only 3 wires, should take barely 5 mins to swap them about and test and then you know for sure.
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Are a lot of the bike coils not internally amp'd ? CBR etc ? I've seen car guys used some of those as an upgrade. Of course lots use the car Honda/Denso coils for serious boost too....modern stuff is just damn powerful !
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/79
Do you have room for the likes of IGN1A remote coils ? Not as neat as a pencil, but regarded as one of the best coils.
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others have already used the ECUMaster EGT to CAN device for up to 8x EGT's
And it's very cheap, seems to operate at around 5Hz which is fairly slow, but a thermocouple isnt super fast anyway so it's fine
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It's a motorbike application....not use some motorbike pencil coils ?
And for those who have issue with coils being powered up but not running some will wire the +ve feed to the coils via the fuel pump trigger so they can never be energised unless the engine is turning.
Although that shouldnt really be needed.
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And what sort of "abilities" do you need ? And more importantly the software ?
Abilities of what it can log are fairly straightforward if you view the PCLink software and logging setup
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The question has already been answered with two options ( of course there are other ecu options too )
Surely this WRC legend/mapper would already have offered various tuning options to cover you ? ( and AEM would be well down my list ! )
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I think UK WRX's of that age did not have AVCS and certainly not DBW.
DBW only appeared on UK models 2006+
AVCS was present on older STI models, but all cable throttle.
US models varied again, with DBW appearing on earlier cars and pretty sure different wiring pinouts than their EU/UK/JDM counterparts
One would have to ask...why such a substantial change in engine ? Cam triggers will be different in your 06+ engine vs the older 2002 engine as well as the obvious DBW and AVCS aspects.
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Basically what you're describing is purely only 4 boost levels. With MAP vs RPM, which is the typical load table arrangement with most ecu's ( without MAF obviously ) it is up to you to ensure running for each level is correct for that level. But in no way at all does it require 4 fuel or spark tables.
So..even a simple boost controller with your current ecu could do that
Via a replacement ecu, you could achieve multiple boost levels via a multiposition switch...with I guess an override type feature from a further momentary push switch on the wheel as you describe for that "overboost"...seems a bit messy and pointless though to need that additional switch for that though.
Although if you want a reliable 600hp engine, just build one.
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It's easy to get a known safe run.....retard timing so there is no chance whatsoever of any knock....= safe run, and always verifying with det cans
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Why are you changing to the older trigger style ?
Trigger scope ?
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Andy has 6 cylinders though...( and perhaps a little more than 1200 on his faster runs ), so less cylinder pressure per cylinder.
But really, without any actual detail of the build or level he is at..who knows. He could be at 300hp....or 1300hp...or nowhere in between
Standard coils work exceptionally well and he hasnt stated any actual symptoms of a weak spark using them. But lots of problems with CDI, which is common.
Bin CDI lol.
Link WRX sti 2004 PnP Voltage Supply
in G4+
Posted
Sounds like you're dreaming up a problem...instead of looking for whatever actual problem you're trying to describe.