Stevieturbo
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Posts posted by Stevieturbo
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first concern would be the dual DBW units on the M5, that ecu seems to have only a single H Bridge ?
Dash2 normally runs serial, so you'd likely need their CAN adapter. RT should be able to advise, or you might be able to run it via serial which would save any hassle and extra boxes.
Either way, it's just a power supply and 2 wires. ( Can Hi/Lo or for RS232 Tx and Rx and a ground, so 3 lol )
I wouldnt see the coilpacks being a problem, nor the sensors. Although it may be more convenient to change temperature sensors if you cannot find calibrations or sort calibrations for the existing ones.
VVT could be a pain....but as you've mentioned doing away with that...then it shouldnt be difficult to get it running without it.
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Depends under what circumstances.
But there would be no need for anything larger than OEM wiring....and any current ability would only apply to the motor wiring itself....not to mention the actual abilities of the H-Bridge running it.
If they ever seen more than 10-15A...there would be a major problem.
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12v power, power ground, and ecu trigger/ground to each coil.
Not overly complicated ? If you have a loom...whatever an "xs loom" is, even 2 of them, surely the wiring is done ?
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On 6/26/2019 at 1:28 PM, cj.surr said:
I don't think you can set a delay on the main RPM limit. And even if you could, you wouldn't want that. That's your main RPM limiter.
+1 to improvements in the engine protection side. At least a couple extra GP tables would help a lot. I'd rather see tables with the Z axis being your protected variable; with engine protection coming in if that variable is exceeded, with a delay for engagement and disengagement. Doing that would allow for user defined variables on the x, y and z. But I realize that it would be a lot of work to go away from RPM limiter method.
Also, I am missing the AFR Error (Actual - Target) parameter that I am used to on other ECUs.
I never stated to try and delay the main rev limiter.
I said you can delay the onset of the generic gp rev limits.
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Is it not in the user manual ?
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You can set a time delay before it activates.
It would seem sensible in the engine protection section....to actually have basic engine protection features though.
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Given the severity of plug damage, I would be very surprised if the engine is not already hurt.
Find a competent tuner before they cost you a fortune.
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If a box is gona break...it's gona break.
Dont be under any illusions it's as simple as stay below a certain torque and it will live forever.
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If you're trying to reduce torque...why would you be running 28psi in the first place ?
Use common sense. Use less boost.
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Sensor ground should only run from sensors to the sensor ground on the ecu...as the name kinda implies, and as the instructions tell you.
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Very early ones are only around 1.3 bar positive pressure ?
I did test a MY97/98 sensor years ago and although it can read to close to 2 bar positive.....it is only linear to around 1.5bar...between 1.5 and 2.0 it is not linear so unless a custom scaling is in place, do not trust it in that range with a generic A-B scaling.
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Does your vehicle speedo work and is connected correctly ?
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It's surprising nobody has done this yet, as it would be very popular.
Someone did say Adrenaline tuning had a controller...but have never found any truth in this or units to use. Also found a few threads from a while back where people said they were working on it...but they never came to anything.
others have done it other DCT boxes...but none the VW DSG...odd, given it's probably the most common application.
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Which can lead to even more significant engine damage.
Avoid such boxes, they are totally unnecessary .
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So he never verified timing on screen is correct via a timing light ?
That would be a basic step if there were concerns about what he had been seeing.
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Why not just use a SSR that is already proven to work ? The Hella SSR will not work for this application.
Fan controller might work, but I've heard they have a very slow response to changes which may not be ideal for a fuel pump.
Some Range Rovers or vehicles do use a FPCM which may be able to be used, but a SSR is so simple anything else just seems pointless.
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What does he mean they were going crazy ?
it's the tuners job to enter the values when they are tuning....and ensure the ecu calibration is suitable for the task in hand.
Did he not do this ? Or was unable to ?
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The little Hella units are not rated for any sensible current in a steady load. Peak, surges yes they can do higher, but not continuous duty and I think they quote even less when PWM'ing. And a fuel pump is very much continuous duty. That 525 will easily be pulling 15A or near at base pressures, nevermind with boost. That's already exceeding what the Hella can cope with
For water injection, I think my pump only pulls around 5A, so no big deal there, the Hella works great for that....although I will also add it seemed to work best at only 50Hz. At higher frequencies, the pump really struggled.
With the Crydoms and my 450's I used this diode across the pump wiring. Probably overkill, but figured may as well go big. Flyback current should never really be high.
Again, I tested this at various frequencies and watched fuel pressure to see if it changed and at various duties, and ended up leaving mine at 200Hz. The likes of a 100A DC Crydom states max is 650Hz. Some lower current versions claim to allow higher frequencies.
As for the resistor across the input terminals...really no idea what it is for. I have used it with and without and both seemed to work fine ( with Syvecs ). But I left it in there, as presumably they wanted it there for a reason and it can do no harm being there anyway.
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Depends on vehicle, which sensors/actuators, wiring, and what you're trying to achieve.
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The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it
And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too.
Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz.
https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf
I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.
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Be easier just to use your current intake manifold and parts.
And the stepper motor is not a positive and negative. But yes you will need to source a positive and negative, and configure a PWM output wire from the ecu to the 3 wire if you must change to it.
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As you can easily move or rotate the dizzy....you're pretty flexible as to where the tooth will be at any time anyway.
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Where it should be, is open to interpretation and a single screenshot only tells a small picture.
But that screenshot does show some odd stuff.
G4+ Xtreme Red to Run BMW S62B50?
in G4+
Posted
If the BMW coils are inductive....( usually 2 or 3 wires ) then yes you would need to run external amplifiers. Although some internally amplified coils are also 3 wires...so dont take that as meaning anything.
From a simplicity point of view, I do prefer modern coils with amps built in and they are plentiful these days. Although as you'd be getting a loom made ? It wouldnt be too hard to add a pair of ign amps into the system for the 8 coils.
If you have only one throttle actuator then that would be fine, I thought most ITB BMW's had an actuator for each bank.
I tried the Dash2 with my old DTA via CAN many years ago.....and gave up. It's a pain in the hole trying to configure their CAN adaptor as an interface between the two devices and RT were of little help. I sold both instead, luckily I had bought the Dash second hand so didnt lose too much on it.
IMO if it can work off serial, that should be easier as they should be able to configure the Dash already, so it's only the ecu talking to the dash...not the ecu talking to an interface and then talking to the dash.
And there would be no guarantee they use similar sensors or sensor scalings. But really...that isnt any big issue. You're largely only talking water temp and air temp anyway. I wouldnt be too concerned about that.
As for the cams, if you can follow instructions and have the correct tools, it shouldnt be too difficult yourself. Can't think of anyone I'd leave it to though