Stevieturbo
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Posts posted by Stevieturbo
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Why not just keep it simple and use/retain the MY97/98 ISCV the ecu was intended for anyway ?
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If you have a plug play ecu, it makes the most sense to retain the wiring loom that is supposed to be on that vehicle unless there is an extremely good reason to change it.
And changing only part of it is asking for trouble. If changing coils etc...it would be easier and safer just to modify those aspects of the wiring that only need changed to accommodate those coils.
Why are you changing the intake and/or that wiring ? It wont make any difference from a performance point of view.
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4 tooth is crap. Functional, but crap.
That said....there's a Mk1 Escort drag car in Malta with a YB that runs 7.3 at 187mph and it is using a 4 tooth wheel. No idea what ecu though. So primitive can work !
IMO though, the likes of a 36-1 or 36-2 should be considered a basic standard for any build....because it's just well proven all over the world.
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What exactly happened that caused the issue in the first place ?
Can you plug in a standard ecu, just to prove the car side of things is now healthy again ?
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Voltage from the crank and cam triggers will of course vary as an ac sine wave during normal operation.
You need a scope trace to verify integrity of any signals. There is no other way to verify them.
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There ya go then, all sorted lol.
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If the files could be saved as a .csv, or exported as such then they could be used with other better/more universal software out there.
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Conventional possibly a little higher ? if anything at all.
Would any of the other pressure sensor options have highlighted this quicker, rather than having to do each cylinder test ?
ie, the transducer in the intake ? or exhaust ?
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I really doubt the adjustable pulleys are worth it.
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Yes, not that uncommon either as the covers tend to leak and need new seals. But totally doable. Probably not that easy to measure the clearances though, but should be able to get some feeler blades in ok to get a good idea of what's going on.
I cant comment as to whether the live compression tests would show poor sealing....they maybe would...they probably should. But I know on cars I've seen this in the past, even a leakdown test didnt show anything, but the clearances were too tight, almost nothing in some cases.
But I've never had the benefits of a scope/in cylinder to try on those faulty cars.
But the symptoms strangely were usually idle misfires, but strangely seemed to affect running less at higher rpm's
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As said early on....a very common cause of idle misfires etc is poor valve sealing. Although usually older engines due to valve/seat recession.
A new build should not suffer this...unless somehow valve/cam clearances were set too tight.
Removing the valve covers is doable in the car, and IMO should be done to measure these clearances. Either to rule it out, and/or for peace of mind.
Although as for cam timing, this is just a single AVCS engine ? not dual ? ie, intake only.
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On my car, ( not Link ) I set it up with a 12v supply from the brake pedal ( ie, 12v when pedal pressed, old car ) and then an ecu trigger ground at sub 2 mph.
Your Vette may have a ground based brake pedal switch though. But no reason why speed only shouldnt be fine.
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On 11/12/2019 at 2:16 PM, The green light said:
Ok guys a small break through, I unplugged my expansion connector, cranked the car over and no more trigger errors! Yay but why? Is it because I have earthed something inappropriately? Where is the best place to earth wideband, A.I.T ? Also anti lag, and launch control, am I correct in thinking that these switches can be grounded and if so were?
Thanks for all your help!!
earth a wideband in what respect ?
Presumably you should not be taking a power ground for a wideband controller from a sensor connection....or arguably any connection from an ecu that does not have a dedicated output for such a purpose.
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Even cold vs warm engine, when it expands cam timing left to right will change. There's no way around that. The engine just gets bigger and smaller.
A few degrees isnt going to matter though.
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On 11/15/2019 at 8:10 PM, Adamw said:
Im no subaru guy, but from memory a 99 wrx would have had a dumb coil with separate ignitor originally, you have now changed to coils with ignitiors built in. Did you remove/bypass the factory ignitor?
99/00 model 4 tower coil has the ignitor built in.
earlier cars used external ignitors. So there is no real issue changing to the later COP coils.
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Only other caveat with 99/00 etc......is STI vs non STI sometimes have the crank/cam input wires reversed.
So on a V5/6 loom and pnp......depending on what vehicle it actually is and wiring loom, you may need to swap these around.
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Although OEM may appear to operate it in sync with crank events....would it actually be critical ?
I'd be surprised if a solenoid that large could actually keep up in such a manner ? It'd probably be worth scoping it to see how it is behaving at present, or if the ecu is in place and is capable of logging fast enough...log it. Although it probably wont be fast enough
Also record it with a current clamp, to see how much current it is actually pulling.
Even injection events, OEM will run multiple very accurately timed events per cycle, but pretty sure most aftermarket ecu's that do direct injection, do not follow this same strategy with far fewer injection events per cycle.
In order to run a P&H for high current, something like this with maybe a pair of channels used might suffice ?
https://www.fueltech.net/products/peak-and-hold-8a-2a-driver
But it will all be trial and error.
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Have you configured the crank/cam as per 2001+ ( ie V7 etc ) yet ?
If the loom is untouched in respect of crank/cam, you shouldn't need to be changing anything there.
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ignore the avcs aspect for the minute and setup crank and cam as per normal 2001+ cars to see if you get a working trigger setup and it will run.
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Because he is saying you cannot simply just apply power, and remove power as an off/on state as it will draw too much current.
You need to be able to apply a high current briefly to open the valve, then reduce it to hold it open. Same as LowZ injectors.....although they aint pulling 10A.
Although perhaps a P&H driver box with outputs linked to handle more current might be able to do it
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I already stated which SSR and diode I'm using at much higher currents. So dont see why they or smaller would not be fine for the spill valve.
But are you looking to PWM the valve, or just the relay for the valve ? Is it an actual diesel application ?
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21 hours ago, cj.surr said:
Do you understand how the boost cut hard limit works? It 100% cuts ignition immediately at the setting (290 kpa). There is no reason that my timing cells at 320 kpa should need to be dyno tuned. It's not like I had 30 deg in that cell or something crazy. I didn't want the engine to ever see that cell and it shouldn't have. The only reason it saw those cells was because boost cut was DISABLED. Which is the point of this thread.
You spent like 5 posts arguing that boost cut was working, until Adam and Simon confirmed that it was actually disabled (like I said). I didn't ask for your help and I clearly don't need it. Can you please sit down?
Clearly you need to learn to read.
Nowhere did I say those cells needed dyno tuned...but I did say some basic common sense does need applied to such cells.
And nowhere did I state ever whether your boost cut worked or not.
Big problem subaru
in G4+
Posted
If it has been dyno'd, how could it not possibly be driven ?
Some detail, history etc would help. Has it ever ran correctly ?