Stevieturbo
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Posts posted by Stevieturbo
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On 10/22/2019 at 1:11 PM, cj.surr said:
In addition, my timing in that 320kpa cell was fairly aggressive considering that I have never attempted to dyno tune it at that level and never expected the ECU to see that cell. It is only about 1 deg less than at 280 kpa. I can be pretty sure that the failure was due to preignition (my best guess) or extreme knock. I will also be testing my injectors and water nozzles to see if that played a factor. However, I don't think it's a coincidence that a motor that has been seemingly perfectly healthy at 270-280 kpa for over two years would completely fail the first time it saw 320 kpa. It was a very short period of time but I think it's completely possible to destroy a rod in 5-10 cycles.
Bit silly running high boost, untested cells on pump fuel with aggressive timing ? Ultimately that's what the real problem is here.
And a fuel cut will be a lot safer than an ignition cut. It just seems a lot choose ignition cut because it's more likely to make silly banging noises during a cut. But yes, improper ignition can and will destroy shit. Big time.
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Ahh yes, silly me. Potentially a good difference then.
I have the Hantek myself. Don't know whether it's me or the setup, but I cannot seem to get it to actually log. I can display in real time no problem...but cannot get it to record data.
I've a cheap USB Stingray too and it records ok. But generally the software is very poor and clumsy. I will get a Pico someday.
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When I used a cheapo sensor, there is noticable lag from pressure peaks ( ie TDC ) in relation to my cam trigger as rpm rises. I assume this is simply sensor lag ?
The WPS quotes 100us...which is really 1ms. Which in the grand scheme of things, isnt that fast really ? Their sensor is a hell of a lot of money
I think the cheapo sensor I used claimed 2ms response ( indeed searching most brands, they just claim <2ms anyway )
I think some of the brand name sensors I seen were saying around 1ms too, like Honeywell etc. I just bought the cheap one first as a test. I guess the Autoscope one would be decent enough too.
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Zisco in Malta makes a little bracket to run the Honda K coils, COP.
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connect in what respect ?
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Yea, the Western Union put me off too. If they accepted Paypal, I'd have bought their kit.
I would still be pulling the valve covers off to check valve clearances though. It's awkward to do, but at least you'd know for sure if they are ok or not.
Not sure how tight clearances would show on a running test as never done one, but I have had cars before where that is the problem, but neither compression tests or leakdown tests revealed anything unusual.
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Seems a huge number of threads with problems with these ?
Even Innovate weren't this difficult....
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you do have a mismatch of wheels there.
6 tooth crank usually ran a 3, 1, 2, 1 pattern on the camwheel.
And as Neil says, the 36-2-2 crankwheel from 01+ typically had 2 teeth on the camwheel.
I can only guess someone has modified that camwheel in your photo for a single tooth. No idea if the Link can run a custom trigger setup to allow you to make use of this config without changing pulleys though.
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SD linked to this ( first of three though ) a few days ago.
Free and nearly an hour long. I downloaded it to watch, although havent got around to it yet. Of course biggest aspect of all this. Is having the correct type of transducer and more importantly software to go with it.
Another I linked to before which was very interesting. This guy sells a scope setup from Ukraine and has done a lot of videos. With some very interesting software to go along with them. Obviously not applicable to all engines, but interesting all the same.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZfEJfHc8DpV6G23jClwruA/videos
eg
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How are you actually measuring the sec waveform ? With a lead or something stuffed into the coil ? Or via some other adapter ?
IMO if the coils are known good, plugs are known good, and wiring etc is known good...I think this area is of little concern. OEM coils are very powerful and reliable. So unless you're doing something strange in terms of dwell times or other....the problem is elsewhere.
I guess a current clamp on the supply to all 4 coils might show any discrepancy between them ? Probably a waste of time though
I've seen a lot of standard type cars with valve sealing issues due to valve/seat erosion, more so earlier 2000 model cars, say 2001-2006 though. So saying valve lash is "good".....actual numbers would matter more than "good".
I did read years ago, that any issues like this, first port of call should be injectors. I can see their reasoning behind the statement, although in reality it isnt the first port of call. But I dont think you've mentioned what you're using, or how they're setup or configured within the ecu ?
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Ideally it would be a 300psi absolute sensor, so it can also read vacuum.
Cant comment on the ignition waveform though, just not something I've had enough experience with. Some great videos on youtube from Scannerdanner though, and no doubt assistance via Pico forum etc.
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Really..if an engine start start within 2-3 seconds, continually cranking is not a solution.
You need to establish why it is not starting....and all goes back to basics. air, fuel, spark, all at correct time and quantities. Hot starting almost any engine should be easy. Cold engines yes may take a little fettling, but hot starts should be easy.
If a little fuel pump is draining the battery, well...it isnt, something else must be..
get the engine to start correctly first, before adding more complications into the mix.
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I want a Pico !
But yes, I just rigged up the pressure sensor to use the ecu to record a cranking and running compression test....because why not ? lol I have an ecu that can....and I do not have a Pico that can. Pico would be a lot more useful, although even with your 11% discrepancy bank to bank, I dont honestly think that would be enough to start pointing to a problem.
What plugs, what gaps ? What were your valve clearances ? A little larger is usually a good thing, OEM specs are pretty tight.
And was valve sealing checked prior to rebuilding ? You say Cosworth heads...so does that mean they were supplied complete and ready to go, or where multiple parties involved in putting them together ?
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As the gearbox VSS is basically a direct link to the driveshaft/propshaft, there isnt really any technical reason why that could not be used as a driven speed reference for traction control which would negate a need for two driven wheel speed sensors.
Either or though, whichever is handiest.
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8 hours ago, 928sg said:
I'm using the VSS from a Corvette T56. It's variable reluctance sensor with 17 pulses per revolution. The config for speedometer on the Thunder shows examples for CAN wheel speed module or a hall effect speed transducer. What is the best way to configure this?
in most cases this sensor is grounded on one lead and the other sends the pulses to the speedometer.
This is the first of many questions as a new owner of a Thunder ECU.
The GM sensor is a VR sensor, both wires should go to whatever device is reading as a sensor ground and signal. Not chassis ground as you are suggesting.. As to whether the Link can accept a VR signal, they would need to confirm.
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This is a screenshot from a datalog on my Syvecs. Have removed most info from it for clarity, but upper graph is crank/cam ( 36-1 and std LS 1x cam ) and lower cyl pressure in cylinder 1 from initial cranking to actually running/idling.
Upper graph also shows battery voltage. Most are logged at 1000Hz for the purposes of the test. I wouldnt say the pressure sensor is calibrated 100% correctly but it should be pretty close. I'm sure it was a 300psi absolute sensor. Although I had bought 300 and 500psi sensors so cant remember which I used here. Not that it should matter. I just found that assuming a calibration based on 0.5 to 4.5v for the range it should have been...just seemed to give wrong numbers. And my Mityvac only went to 60psi positive. I have a small reg for my airline to go higher, but damned if I could find it when I did this.
Oddly the first couple of bumps read very high pressure, compared to once it actually gets moving. As this was a start and run test, obviously it was not done with a fully open throttle as a normal compression test with a non running engine would be
I presume you've tried the obvious of new plugs ?
Coil problems are rare, but some do fail. Can you swap the coils ?
Common cause of misfires on standard engines is valve/seat recession...but if you're using new heads that have been built/shimmed correctly etc...that should not be an issue.
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Then fix your radiator.
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If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay.
At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable.
So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?
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255 is a small pump, it does not draw a lot of current.
And how does it affect tuning/starting unless you are not running an alternator or the system is not charging ? Or is the battery in poor condition ?
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Try giving us some information on how you have it wired and the ecu configured.
Will it even work for you as a simple relay, with no PWM ?
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Coil choice will depend what is easiest fitted.
VAG are popular, as are R35 GTR, as are Honda K/Denso. For coils, I would always say buy OEM, not any aftermarket, whether they claim to be OEM replacements or not.
I've never actually used a separate ignition amp for about 15 years....so cant really think of one to use lol. But plenty of Bosch or similar, or OEM stuff out there. Or no doubt Link will sell one.
But a pencil type coil with internal amp, or an LS style coil for coil near plug would be the preferred option
Not really an on engine test...but a test for some coils, and a visual on shapes and sizes.
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I'd be more interested to know how you can possibly manage that from such a height....twice ?
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Well as you seem to be guessing rather than actually calibrating correctly...yes you should have someone competent re-tune things, or at least check the map sensor scaling is correct compared to the old one.
And sadly, most of the GM style sensors these days are Chinese. For such a critical engine sensor.....not a chance would I use one.
Map Limit didn't engage during Shift Cut
in G4+
Posted
Perhaps get back into the real world and use some common sense.
Why should you need to anticipate basic tuning for cells ? Seriously, think about what you're saying.
And BS about the "lean firing that comes with fuel cut"