ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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Lower the Limit Control Range for more aggressive cut.
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did you calibrate your trigger ?
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Ok in which case you really need to approach a tuner, as its not as simple as turning a switch on it will need careful consideration and mapping to give reliable pops and bangs.
If your in the UK I can help.
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Both the Ignition and Fuelling Strategies are independent of triggers, you just need 'enough' triggers for the strategy you need to run.
The Holley Dual Sensor dizzy, gives you 1 pulse per fire for Crank and Single Pulse for Cam.
So Trig1 = Crank and Trig 2 = Cam
With this setup you can run both Distributor and Wasted Spark Ignition and Multi Point Grouped for Injection.
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Sounds Like you have a positive supply issue, check the +14v line, this will both make the laptop lose comms and trigger the fuel pump relay.
The ECU will ground the output when the ECU is not powered so you need to wire BOTH the ECU +14v and the positive side of the relay to Ignition Key switched live.
For the relay to stay on it need both the +14v from the ignition switched live AND a ground from the ECU:
If the ECU +14v is powered off then also the relay should be off so the fuel pump should also be off, if it is running then the ECU alone must have lost power or you have another wiring issue.
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In corrections use a 4D table enabled with the DI you wire the switch too
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TPS based load will be best for you
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Ok then buy a timing light and don’t guess the ignition offset
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How did you wire the ignition ?
1-5-3-6-2-4
IGN 1 ECU should be wired to Cyl 1 & 6
IGN 2 ECU - Cyl 2 & 5
IGN 3 ECU - Cyl 3 & 4
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Sorry £85 delivered back to your door.
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http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-4110 Digital Wideband UEGO Gauge.pdf
According to this you need to take the white wire and connect that to one of your spare ANVolt Inputs, you may need a XLS Expansion Loom for this, or if your vehicle originally had a NB Oxy you can connect to that wire.
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I don't get this problem on my MacBook Pro, i5 CPU and SSD when logging all parameters so I am guessing it might be speed or USB related if you two are having issues.
Best to log inside the ECU and then pull the log on a run anyway, it is also far safer to drive long distances because that urge to look over and see whats going on is too great.
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The term used for tablets with 1 UBS port is 'OTG' for On The Go Charging.
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You can pretty much use any pressure sensor some have been pre calibrated and are in the dropdown menu and others you will need to calibrate.
The Link 3 Bar calibration was in fact originally a GM type sensor so shout be spot on.
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What is the M10 thread because an M8 helicoil fits nicely in a Jap 10x1.25mm hole.
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Does the Gearbox controller have 2 twised wires going to it, if so whats the resistance between them if its around 60 ohms it will almost certainly be CAN (or if your unlucky a proprietary differential interface)
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Why not stay with the piggyback idea as stage 1 - use an ECU with E-Throttle and take control of it, the OE ECU will freak how much I don't know, but on the earlier Toyotas not enough to stop the transmission from working. - You can always back-out and remove Ethrottle control from the piggyback.
Then you can go from there, 2 questions is the Gearbox control actually built into the OE ECU or is it an external box and if the latter is it CAN controlled ?
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In would start by checking the fuel pump is running if its quiet you can hear that, then that you have 12v to the fuel injectors; then fuel check fuel pressure and injector flow test.
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its the 12v feed which is the issue this should be powered from an ignition switched relay.
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You don't need to offer any money we will help as much as we can Free of Charge.
Your coils should be fed from a relay, when you say no 12v is this with the multimeter ground connected to the engine block or to a pin in the igniter ?
If your measuring between pins, then check to see if its is actually the 12v that is not there or the ground has been lost by grounding the black voltmeter probe on the engine block.
If the 12v is lost, trace the wire back to the relay, it may just be a dodgy connection or faulty relay or the relay trigger signal is lost.
In the meantime please post a copy of you pclr file and a log from when you try and start your engine.
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When you press F12 and goto triggers do you see both TRIG1 and TRIG2 in Green 'OK' and no 'trigger errors' ?
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Can we see a new log file and current map with them changes please.
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Link G4+ final Injection Time Calculation
in G4+
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