ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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I would retime them cars to 110/112 will increase the torque spread the 15 is more like a rally cam than a race cam so phasing it out of its operating area is not a good idea.
you need to get on a dyno to tune your car, and be very careful around peak torque 4500 rpm I would imagine.
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What fuel are you running ?
Yes the k]Knockblock and headphones will hear everything knock and false knock, but once you get used to it you will be able to tell what is what, imagine if like your light but with audio
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The Cosworth uses a very short con rod and creates a lot of piston slap, even though the later engine ran a lot more gudgeon pin offset it still creates false knock, most of this dissapears as soon as you move to a 136mm rod and WRC style pistons.
Now I know that does not help you but at least you can understand why you are getting false knock.
The KnockLink is a great tool for tuning, it will show knock but unfortunately will also show false knocks, exactly what the YB engine is known for. BUT its a great tuning tool because you can see both then work out exactly like you have done by reducing the timing and see if its real knock or false knock.
If you have one of the higher end ECU's things get easier still, with the internal knock control you can introduce knock windowing which illuminates 90% of false knock by only listening to it during the period knock is most likely to happen, you can also then work out which cylinder is knocking and trim them individually.
One more thing, as long as you have not gone above the standard 8:1 compression your engine will not be knock limited, in that you will hit maximum torque before you get knock by 4-8 degrees, so I do not advise people tune these to knock and back off but tune to peak torque.
Hope that helps explain what it going on.
Clint
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You can not only use it for data logging but auto tune function too.
Use the 0-5v output from the innovate and put that on a free AnVolt input on the Link. Set this input to Lambda, there is a Innovative LM1 Calibration in the drop down list but check the calibration has not changed by comparing the Innovative LM1 manual with your MTX-L manual.
If it has changed then choose one of the simple cal tables, as the innovate has a linear output and set the calibration according to the innovate manual.
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Excellent read, perfect use of data getting applied
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1) Any Aux out can be used for Fuel Pump Relay.
2) All Temp inputs can be set for pretty much anything, I personally always set Temp1 to Water, Temp 2 to Inlet Air
All inputs and outputs of a given type can be changed to what ever you want, Link are not fixed like many brands of ECU.
One thing I would highly recommend is setting up the ECU first and planning what pin does what, a crib sheet comes inside the ECU box for this purpose.
You can set all the settings up inside the MAP and then terminate the loom.
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The output looks good, You can see the cam trigger isn't dead centre of the two crank triggers, although I doubt this will be a problem in your case its best practice to get this set correctly, so I would move the distributor like Adam mentioned so the cam event happens dead centre of the crank event while you are checking the timing with a light.
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You could try the Link 5 Bar calibration ?
Failing that as it is a linear sensor you can use one of the simple calibration tables like Cal4 and set the units to Kpa
Input Value1 = 0.5v
Output Value1 = 0 kpa
Input Value2 = 4.5v
Output Value2 = 517.1kpa
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I never mess about with marks on pulleys, find your TDC with a dial gauge, mark the crank pulley and the engine cover with white pen, in trigger calibrate set the 'ref timing' to zero degrees and adjust the Offset until the lines you marks are aligned.
As Adam mentioned your fuel is all over the place the Master fuel is way too low, I would put 16 in the master fuel and divide the fuel table by 4 as a start.
Your modelled fuel map will never work as the fuel map would be a result of engine VE and the table values would be vastly different, so stay with the traditional MAP for now.
If after the above things are still the same, humour me a put 15 degrees in the entire ignition map and try again.
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Did you try bumping it or is it auto?
55 ohms is perfect, is it terminated near the dash end or near the Link end.
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Are you sure the error 22 its not also accompanied with error 56 ?
Error 56 is MAP sensor at 5v
Error 22 on the other hand is the AnVolt input has been above the error voltage, so if you are only getting error 22 then check the 'AnV5 error high' setting has not somehow been changed.
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Press F12 goto the trigger tab and see if there are any errors.
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1 hour ago, AbbeyMS said:
Adam,
where is this situated in the Link G4+ software please
Ignition Main, Dwell Mode, Mark, I tested it today works perfect.
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49 minutes ago, Rossobianconero said:
Are you sure Simon? cause I pretty sure I ask on the chat the other day and they say I should use exhaust cam. Looking at the help window that say left hand cam I would believe is the intake one... can you confirm this?
I am sure either will work you just need to make sure you set the static timing with a light, I have had engines (not Honda) with failed sensors one side before and just used the other cam and reset the timing.
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Then I would imagine the CAN bus is experiencing magnet interference from possibly something like the starter motor.
Does it do it if bumped ?
The CAN Bus is normally protected against this by its design, which includes twisted wire and termination on each end.
Have you twisted the wire at about a rate of a turn an inch ?
Does it run by the starter motor ?
To test it is terminated properly using a multimeter across the CAN bus in resistance mode, you should see approximately 60 ohms, if you see 120 ohms then the Dash needs a terminating resistor.
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I would try changing the Transmit Format, the 'Form Error' shows packets are being received but without some of the building blocks of the CAN packet.
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Sounds like something is wrong on the car's wiring.
The Link ECU requires that the Main relay's positive side of the coil is ignition switched, your Audi should be ignition switched, so either its been rewired or the alternator's diode in the sense circuit is missing or shorted. The reason for this is that the Link ECU pin 3??? is connected directly to ground so with the ECU present the main relay will be switched on, however the OE ECU will not.
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Glad the old fluffy stuff between the ears is still working.
So the ignition amps will need changing as I mentioned above.
PF10 is fine
SEN8D is VR type, again no problem
I stock modern injectors should you want to upgrade in either 550 or 1000cc
I would change to a Link Boost valve again we stock these, they will provide perfect closed loop control.
I dont know on the idle valve but again you can check with diode test on a multimeter.
01474 850666 if you want to chat www.shopbhp.com
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Firstly I am sure I have worked with this car many years ago if I remember this is the rough layout, excuse me for rambling if I am wrong.
You have 2 Marelli ECU's 1 on each bank (the ECU can only handle max 4 cylinder each) each reading from their own 60 degree offset crank sensors, if this is the case, a higher resolution sensor may be better but not essential, the link will be quite ok on 3 and 1 cam/sync pulse.
You may be able to put a disk on the back of your crank pulley with some screws, which you could also remove and the holes would be invisible.
You use BLK3 Ignition Amps that have internal Dwell control, We use an adaptor loom for these that will take 3 inputs into a Link 3 Way Ignition Amplifier, so only 2 amps need to be fitted to the car.
The Air (Weber ATS04) and Water Temp (Weber ATS05) sensors are all standard Bosch NTC calibrations.
The TPS is PF09 standard 0-5v sensor
The Turbos have AMAL valves 20Hz operation
The Idle valve is from a Fiat, you need to make sure it is the type with a diode inside and if not fit one across it to stop flyback again we use 20Hz.
The fuel pump relay is triggered from ECU1
I am sure the injectors are Weber and High impedance but check this with a multimeter set to ohms.
I am right by the Circuit so your always welcome to pop in and see us for help
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Nick the best thing to do is use the sheet than come with the ECU and assign inputs and outputs to jobs ,
i am not sure what trigger the car uses but wire up trig 1 to crakshart & trig 2 to cam and use the triggerscooe to identify the mode.
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How many wires come out of your sensor ?
[UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338b Released
in G4+
Posted
Hi All AnTemp inputs on the Atom and Monsoon have internal 1Kohm pull-up's in hardware which you cannot switch off in software.
All ECU's Storm and above have configurable pull-up resistors.
You can select a Cal table from the Sensor type to input your own calibration if none of the defined ones meet your needs.
The only issue is when you try and piggy back then you need to use an AnVolt input.