ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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Then wire an AUX out in as a fuel pump relay and use the fuel pump control 'prime time' to do this. you can still keep your switch wired in series this will be the safest method to as the ECU has control and you have override with the switch
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Sounds like you have not plumbed your valve in properly, the valve normally bleeds air off to atmosphere from the waste-gate line, so 100% duty will always be max boost and 0% minimum.
There are other ways to do this but this method is the safest / easiest / most common.
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just connect the 14v and the 2 grounds to the ECU and see if it connects then.
If thats difficult I have seen a short on the 5v line stopping the comms, so remove the 5v line from the loom plug and see if it connect then.
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On Aux 1 you have a mistake you need to reference the same Aux in the second condition.
135 and 75 were old valves carried over from the old settings.
135 should be set to 1
75 should be set to 2 (the virtual aux port number)
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19 hours ago, Grant Baker said:
Also getting lots of CAN errors.
What errors are you getting Grant, the CAN Bus is quite informative but can generate spurious errors when one thing is wrong.
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I think the V88 is effectively a Link G4 Xtreme then you can do the following:
1. Download the latest version of PCLink and connect your new ECU, upload your old map file. (this does not work offline)
Upgrade the firmware
Check all the inputs and outputs are set correct.
2. Always worth doing but should be fine.
3. You wont be able to run the car with a locked ECU.
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1. When you say play, what ECU output (pin) are you trying to control ?
3. You have a Gauge, that reads ok right? You have wired the White wire to An Volt 6 on the expansion connector.
If you dont have a voltmeter you can use the ECU, set the AN volt Input to Voltage 0-5v and check the input voltage on the configuration screen.
If that reads 0v then humour me and try to move it to AN Volt 5 (the next pin on the expansion connector) and see what that reads.
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26 minutes ago, Ivaylo Angelov said:
Thank you Clint! I'll try these settings.
It seems though, there is no support for G4 since New Year !??? I hope this wont be "forever"...
Support was closed till the 8th of Jan so are probably a little backlogged.
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1. Your 'Engine Fan 2' does not seem to be set up on any inputs and is set to come on at 0 degrees so will always be on ? You have Engine Fan 1 and Engine Fan 3 set to Ignition Drive 3 & 4
2. Your MAP has the default Throttle Settings, you will need to perform a calibration before the throttle will work properly.
3. Your Lambda output seems to be stuck at ground, you will need to check the wiring, and if correct measure the output of the AEM with a voltmeter. What AEM part number do you have.
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You will need a #NGTR+ as the header plug is correct.
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Its easy to get bit errors if the CAN bus does not have a 60 ohm load, the resistor although should be applied to each end of the bus they can practically be placed inbound somewhat, the resistance provides a load so the electronic bus driver that helps it drive the voltage up and down fast without skew (the angle of the rise and fall of the pulse)
The faster you run the bus say 1Mbps then the skew becomes more important to control also at that speed on a transmission buss you can easily have on transmission spanning 6 Meters, and thats where the end of line resistors help and it damps out the reflected data, returns it to ground if you like.
Just make sure the can bus has a termination resistor on both ends or as near as practicle.
The other thing is the wires much be twisted this give the transmission line an impedance and stops a lot of mainly magnetic interference.
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It might not be even into your fuel table, your pre and post crank tables if you have added bigger injectors they will need trimming.
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Think this should work:
Setup 2 Virtual Aux
Virtual Aux 1
Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3
SW Cond 1 ECT | > 55
SW Cond 2 | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1
SW Cond 3 | ECT > | 75
Virtual Aux 2
Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3
SW Cond 1 IAT | > 35
SW Cond 2 | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2
SW Cond 3 | IAT > | 50
Then setup a AUX as a GP output
Switch Logic Cond 1 OR 2
SW Cond 1 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1
SW Cond 2 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2
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Press F12 and click the Trigger tab, you will see if you are getting a trigger signal, maybe one is missing if so and as you know its working on the old ECU try raising the trigger filter level, by default the ST205 plug in is set to the lowest.
Have you setup the static timing with a light, they are normally fine on the base Maps 15 degrees, but worth a check.
Failing this setup logging and log all parameters while trying to crank and post the log file here.
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Add Anti Lag Status to your view and see what it is doing:
It will be in one of the following states.
· OFF - Anti-Lag is disarmed.
· Armed:AL Active - Anti-Lag is operating.
· OFF: RPM < 500 - Anti-Lag is disabled due to the RPM being below 500RPM.
· Sys Armed: Cyclic OFF - Anti-Lag system armed, cyclic idle is off.
· Armed: Cyclic Active - Anti-Lag system armed, cyclic idle is active.
· Cyclic Cooldown Active - Cyclic idle is operating for a set time (after anti-lag transitions from active to armed).
· Dis-armed: Cyclic Active - Anti-Lag is disarmed, cyclic idle is active.
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
He has removed the second tooth as advised by us.
Yes I know but it was unnecessary, and he has now lost the ability to go back to OE system should he want to sell the car or engine at a later date without buying an ever getting rarer engine part.
4 hours ago, Adamw said:That is irrelevant unless these WRC escorts used a Link G4+ ECU.
All the WRC Cars I am looking after nearly all have Link fitted now, and I have also helped a few other dealers configure theirs.
4 hours ago, Adamw said:You should not be making suggestions like this when you have no idea how our trigger decoding works. You are correct in that the trigger 2 teeth are only observed during certain windows of crankshaft rotation but you dont know where these are and since the user fitted his own trigger wheel you also dont know where his gap is in relation to TDC or the phase teeth.
I know I am correct and I know what your trigger decoding is doing, it is not clearing the IRQ Flag on trigger 2 until the missing tooth on trigger 1 is seen again. The trigger wheel the user fitted is from Turbosport, I have fitted a Monsoon to a customers car with the exact pulley installed. As long as there was not a manufacturing fault the missing tooth will be in exact relation to the woodruff key on the crank shaft.
4 hours ago, Adamw said:This user had already tried duratec mode with massive errors.
Where are these massive errors, the massive errors I was told was from running the RS500 Trigger in software with the 36-1 wheel fitted,
His post said above "I spoke to Clint at bhp and he said just set the triggers to ford duratec as that uses a 36-1 trigger and 2 point cam ? Rather than using the rs500 triggers. I tried this and it run better. Not sure what’s best "
His problems are not the pattern but more likely to still be trigger setup in software, static timing, hardware or wiring. Given 20 minutes with the car I would be able to have it running perfectly.
4 hours ago, Adamw said:You may have got lucky on the one you fitted but it is very unlikely to work reliably for every 36-1 YB install.
Work I do is never luck, this is a kit I sell a lot of and it works every time perfectly, fully sequential ignition and fuel, no trigger errors.
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It is google drive issue, you can copy out side of a google folder I wont get the issue, what I do as its a good practice is to use revisions when you save, I add Rev1.0 to by first file and increment every save you then never get that error.
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Ok to state again there is no need to remove the second tooth at all, I have loads of cars running 36-1 and 2 tooth cam, spinning to 10k RPM with no errors, its exactly what all WRC Escorts ran.
You can't set this up on custom trigger as it will error on the second cam pulse, but the Duratec setting seems to not reset the IRQ for the trigger 2 until the missing tooth is seen again so in effect only counts the first cam tooth after the missing tooth is seen.
You are more than welcome to grab support direct with me, instead of playing guessing games with people who have probably never set up a YB engine on a LInk ECU (no disrespect to anyone trying to help)
Direct email: [email protected] - 01474 850666
Attached a picture of a car that is 280bhp without a turbo running exactly this trigger setup !
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There is no need to modify the cam trigger works perfectly with 2 teeth.
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I must have taken the wrong email down then buddy, sorry about that.
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15 hours ago, Smarttech said:
Spoke to you a month ago and you took my contact details and said you would work out a price and email me. Still not had the email !
Did you email or ring, we quote same day normally, drop me a mail, [email protected] and Ill reply same day.
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I do at least 1 Cosworth YB a week and have ready made adaptors for e-throttle, you can see some in action on our facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/brandshatchperformance/
www.shopbhp.com
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Same (ish) question just been asked here: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6288-obd2-bluetooth-reader-and-torque-app/#comment-50403
Engine fan control
in Link G4
Posted
Upload your map and Ill take a look.