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Vaughan

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Posts posted by Vaughan

  1. Ethanol sensors use Digital Inputs (DI) as the signal they send is a PWM style with the temperature and ethanol content encoded through the Frequency and the width of each pulse. Any DI input on a G4X can be used for Ethanol.

  2. with the trigger scopes you really need to get a scope exactly when the issue occurs, you need to see that trig 1 state reset to idle and you need to see where it failed in regards to the teeth and what state it was in prior to failing

     

  3. Copy equivalent settings over, I used to have a script that would do a lot of it but that is very out of date now.

    Tables can be copied with right click -> Import/Export -> Export to clipboard and then import in the G4X.

    Instead of going aux outputs -> Aux 1 and then setting it to say fuel pump you now go Aux Outputs -> Fuel Pump and then select Aux 1 as the output. Same for Analogs and digitals too.

    PID Loops will be need tuning, read the help manual where confused.

  4. 5 hours ago, alminc said:

    I have used all of the available CAN Functions and have CAN AUX 1-8 working.  Output 1-4 and ADIO 1-4

    I am using AIDO 5 for Tail Lights, AIDO 6 for Brake Lights, AIDO 7 for Underglow lights

    I believe the next release will have another 4 can functions in the PDM

    5 hours ago, alminc said:

    The Brake Lights will be accuated by DI-8 on a ground side switch.  How do I command the PDM for that?

    GP output to convert it to a can aux or custom ECU CAN which mimics generic CAN stream and sends the DI status in place of a CAN Aux status. Might even be easier just to use a gp delay (in the digital inputs -> gp inputs menu) with 0 on and off delays instead of using a gp output.

    6 hours ago, alminc said:

    I had the water pump running on the G4+ Storm through timer 1 and timer 2, Virtual AUX 1 and Virtual AUX 2 on a GP Output on AUX 4.

    The G4x Fury seams to have a different setup for Virtual AUX.  Can anyone help me imulate the same setup from the G4+ Storm into the G4x Fury?

    The image below mimics exactly how it worked in your G4+ tune.

    Capture.thumb.PNG.f1fa57130c47662e4d8f2749aa5824d3.PNG

  5. No obvious issues shown in those scopes, I have however seen non genuine NB crank sensors missing teeth completely despite being being spaced properly, this presented as a misfire at idle.

    Does your crank sensor have the pictured bit of sheathing on it? The non genuine sensor I had didn't and the genuine one did.

    Capture.PNG

  6. So to do a two button increment/decrement setup in the PDM you need to use two keypad functions, one for the increment button, one for the decrement button.

    To make the 2nd button decrement the first button you need to select the 2nd keypad functions status in the set box down the bottom with rising edge and Mode set to decrement.

    To make the second button's LED colour match the First button you either need to set it to use the first Keypad function's count as the LED Parameter.

    The max keypad count in the PDM is currently 7, the ECU's max is 10 but if you use the keypad directly with the ECU you need to move all of the functions to the ECU.

    Capture.PNG

  7. Pass the keypad function information back to the ECU over CAN, PDM side of this CAN is already sorted if you have the 2nd PDM seeing keypad states. In the ECU set it up to talk to the PDM using the information in the help manual.

    Once you have the ECU CAN setup to talk to the PDM go to the ECU Setting menu and go to CAN -> PDM X (where X is the number of the PDM with the keypad) and select the keypad function that the PDM has setup as the launch control value and set it to the next available CAN Analog. Then set your launch control to the 3D Launch RPM Table mode and put the selected CAN Analog on one of the axes of the table.

     

    Capture.PNG

    Capture.PNG

  8. The ECU CAN has a lot of configurability and has some torque modelling functionality, do you have any information on how the Turbolamik CAN works in terms of message IDs, data locations, data multi/offsets?

    I would expect it would want to see engine speed, tps, maybe map, hopefully an estimated torque value and then it would send back to the Link ECU things like gear and hopefully some form of torque reduction request.

  9. The hold, throttle open will be because your TPS value is at 2.2% at that point in time, have you calibrated your TPS recently? Once TPS is below the lockout and idle becomes active then it can do closed loop things if you have that turned on. In terms of the engine speed being too high at that point that means that you need less dashpot or less base position most likely.

  10. Take a PC log of an attempted start and maybe a trigger scope and attach those here.

    To take a PC Log connect PCLink to the ECU, press F8 or click on the "PC Log = Off" box in the top right of PCLink, crank the engine, stop cranking, press F8 again or click the same box. Logging -> Save Log File.

    To take a trigger scope connect PCLink to the ECU, ECU Controls -> Trigger scope, crank the engine, click capture, keep cranking until a the scope shows up, save as log.

    To save basemap connect PCLink to ECU, File -> Save as.

  11. So I can see that it is syncing as you are getting a changing dwell time and the Trigger 1 State looks happy so the triggers are most likely fine, one other thing you can do to check the triggers is to go to ECU Controls -> Trigger scope and then click capture while the engine is cranking.

    Have you had a timing light on it to confirm the Trigger offset value? Also I can see both Trig 1 and Trig 2 going to yes, the point at which trig 1 goes back to No is when you have stopped cranking it.

    Capture.PNG

  12. logs and scope won't show me anything, if you left the wire in then ECU still running after removing your ground pin will be because the ignition switch input would have been active pulling that pin to ground.

    In terms of ground issues make sure that the ECU power grounds on the engine are securely bolted to an unpainted surface

  13. A quick google shows that the JZX110 tacho signal might be on pin Q20 not Q26 (using pin numbering from Altezza pinout in help manual), have you swapped any pins around to make your JZX110 engine work? did you move the tacho wire to the appropriate place? Do you have the tacho output setup in the ECU? (Aux 3 in the Altezza)

  14. Grounding Pin 16 will power the ECU and engine loom, if the ECU powers up and runs with pin 16 not connected to anything that would suggest a backfeed issue, can you confirm whether your pin 16 not being grounded test was with the pin removed from the header or the pin left in the header?

     

    Have you altered any of the factory wiring or added any extra wiring to the ECU like adding a boost solenoid etc?

  15. If you get the serial data working you could hook it up to a digital input into the ECU or over CAN just as a yes/no for ECU Antitheft and you could also integrate it into the starter control.

    That is assuming arduino doing the talking over serial and then sending a yes/no to the ECU

  16. Voltages don't seem low enough to turn the ECU off but it definitely sounds like you have an ECU grounding issue if the ECU earths are 1v higher than the chassis.

    Can you also see if the blue lights on the ECU PCB turn off when cranking?

    Also if that was done with coils and injectors unplugged then it may be even worse with those connected

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