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Vaughan

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Posts posted by Vaughan

  1. The 4 pin JST CAN headers were designed with CAN Lambdas in mind and so should be able to supply enough power for them. Note you may still need the 22uF capacitor if you have heating issues.

  2. 10 minutes ago, Sixbelow said:

    edited first post to include log files.

    There's a bunch of missing data in that log as it is an ECU log not a PC Log, if you press F8 or click on the "PC Log = Off" in the top right of PCLink it will take a PCLog which will have a lot more info in it.

    I have attached a copy of a G4+ JZX100 basemap that I found in my downlaods folder and I can see that it uses a 16ms Master Fuel value instead of 8ms (using the File -> Compare functionality) where did your 8ms number come from? Does richening up the Fuel mixture make it run better? I'm also a little confused as to why your ECT sensor has had the pullup resistor turned off and it set to a calibration table.

    TOYOTA JZX100 G4+ Base map, Need to confirm fuel pump and speed control.pclr

  3. If you think you've blown the ECU then crack it open to see if there is anything obviously fried, did you put the jump pack on backwards?

    Otherwise use a multimeter to start testing power to the ECU. There is a pinout for the JZX90 pnp in the PCLink help manual, pins 99 and 100 are the ECU power with pins 33, 52 and 68 being the power grounds. Note for the ECU to be powered the main relay needs to be switched on and this is controlled by ECU pin 59 which is triggered by pin 85 so not a bad idea to check the main relay is operating correctly before checking the ECU power.

  4. A copy of the tune, a trigger scope taken while cranking and a PCLog of a start and die would be a good starting point please.

    When setting the timing do you have the "Set Base Timing" window open?

    Also have you done an ignition test with your direct spark setup to confirm that Ignition 1 is wired to the coil on cyl 1, Ignition 2 to cyl 2, ignition 3 to cyl 3 and so on?

  5. 45 minutes ago, Ammar Alqisi said:

    1) Whats the can id for Greyhill ( Motec Keypad ) on Link G5 ? and can use it like the link keypad ?

    I have had a generic CAN Open based 8 button Grayhill keypad working with the Link software and have extrapolated out from that for the 6 button, 12 button and 15 button. I have not made brightness control work yet though.

    What would worry me with the Motec Keypad is that I am unsure of whether or not the Motec specific keypad would have special firmware in it. A good first step might be to wire it up and see if you can find it with the CAN find devices functionality in PCLink.

    48 minutes ago, Ammar Alqisi said:

    2) Whats the Can setting for Link G5 using Motec PDM 30 

    I have no information on how the Motec PDM 30 CAN stream works but @Adamw might. Do you have any documentation for this?

    Also as a 3rd note if you are using the Motec keypad with the Motec PDM you would not have the ECU talking to the keypad directly as that would conflict with the PDM but instead you would leave the PDM to control the keypad and have the PDM tell the ECU the state of the buttons that are relevant to the ECU.

  6. I found some information for it here: https://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/instructions/TS-0305-1001_datasheet/062106325592.html

    based on a quick look at it you would need to transmit on CAN ID 272 (0x110) at 100Hz.
    Assuming you are using the ECU boost control function you would put "WGate DC" in Byte 0/1 as a 16bit number with a multi of 10, div of 1 and offset of 0.
    Assuming only one EGate leave bytes 2&3 empty.
    I haven't read the manual enough to know what pass through is but at a guess it looks like the area targets are a linearised against area where the pass through targets are based on % of valve lift so most likely leave these empty.

    with the 2nd CAN ID (0x111) I would say don't transmit this one.

    TurboSmart CAN 2.PNG

    TurboSmart CAN 1.PNG

  7. On 3/23/2024 at 3:10 AM, Hadzhonda said:

    No it's an analogue signal, the form of v an ac sign wave buddy, Hall type goes 0 to 5v. That's digital. Inductive requires and analogue to digital converter circuit.  

    On 3/21/2024 at 2:02 PM, Vaughan said:

    It's a frequency input which are received through the Digital Input pins. Inductive wheel speed sensors also don't output a sine wave, they output a series of gentle rises with sharp drops through 0V.

    It will not read as a speed if you wire it to an analog input. The speed signal is received as a frequency with a higher speed being a higher frequency. The actual analog voltage does not matter as long as it is going above the hardware based 'high' voltage and below the hardware based 'low' voltage.

    The circuits people commonly add between an inductive wheel speed sensor and an ECU frequency input are used because they allow the ECU to still see speed when the wheel is spinning slow enough that the ECU hardware based 'high' voltage is not met but if you don't need to read speeds this low you do not need extra hardware.

  8. G5 Voodoo Pro is the only ECU in the range at the moment that supports direct injectors, pair this with an appropriate driver box to get the high voltages and peak and hold control (The Link DI Driver box is currently under testing).

    In terms of controlling a diesel engine it can be done with the current software but it isn't setup in the ideal way for a diesel as of yet. You would only have one table for injection timing control, the fuel equation is based around adding enough fuel to keep up with the air rather than keeping the mixture within lean afr targets and there is currently no setup for multiple partial injections like some modern diesels use.

    We do have plans to support diesel properly in the future but haven't started writing the software for that yet. Personally I've only gotten as far as making a Toyota 1KZ run (mechanical injectors with electrically controlled pump).

  9. Good to hear it is running properly now.

    Where is the ECU mounted relative to the engine? I'm not really expecting to have issues due to EMF on factory coils but worth checking.

    Does it only disconnect while running or while engine is off as well?

    With the Wifi are you trying AP or Client mode or both?

    Does it show a connection fail message at the top of PCLink when it disconnects and if so what is it?

    Also can you attach a copy of your latest tune if possible please.

    Have sent you a slightly newer PCLink and firmware to see if that helps with the connection issues.

  10. If you've already got the ECU wired up then do a trigger scope and attach it here.

    Googling suggests the crank is a reluctor and I would hesitantly guess 60-2 but would definitely expect it to be a multi/missing.

    Cam sensors are probably hall effect and most likely needs to be set as cam pulse window but I would need to see a scope of cams at rest and info on how far they swing or  scope of at rest and full movement to determine the window location and length.

  11. 4 hours ago, JonM said:

    Ah OK I thought the analog would just be switched to digital on the ECU side.

    Analog wideband signals can be quite susceptible to electrical noise and ground offsets as they have quite a large operational range of values and require high accuracy when compared to something like a temperature sensor.

  12. 11 hours ago, atlex said:

    modelled mode takes into account the MAP signal in the calculated PW, so you don't have to scale your table out with the boost with perfect accuracy

    Traditional does this too when Load Source is set to MAP.

    3 hours ago, atlex said:

    CCL IAT correction should absolutely be off in modeled mode, but I'm not sure if that's the case for trad mode.

    If using charge temp (always on in modelled, can be turned on or off in traditional) then don't use the IAT trim or warmup enrichment.

  13. You're going to need to clear your fault codes and take a log in which the error occurs as the attached log doesn't show it failing. Setting the PID Setup to E-Throttle 1 will help by showing what your PID is doing.

    Setting your Fault delay longer will make it take longer to fault but this is possibly just hiding the issue.

  14. 50 minutes ago, Hadzhonda said:

    That's an ac sign wave, not a digital signal. That's analogue. You have an inductive sensor.

    It's a frequency input which are received through the Digital Input pins. Inductive wheel speed sensors also don't output a sine wave, they output a series of gentle rises with sharp drops through 0V.

  15. You'll need a controller for the wideband and most modern controllers use the LSU4.9 sensor.

    Try and get a wideband controller with a CAN connection if possible as this is much more reliable and has a higher resolution than using a 0-5V analog signal which are often affected by ground offsets and electrical noise.

  16. Note that Closed Loop Lambda Trim value isn't accounted for in the Mixture Map so you will either need to turn off CLL to use Mixture map properly or use a mathblock to calculate what your lambda would have been if without the CLL trim and then use that math block value as the 'lambda' input into the mixture map.

    You could also turn on the Closed Loop Lambda long term trim table which will slowly fill itself out based on what CLL is doing in each cell.

  17. Storm, Xtreme, Fury can all do 12cyl wasted spark and either group or semi-sequential injection. For 12cyl with sequential injection it would have to be the G5 Voodoo Pro which will do 12cyl sequential injection and direct spark.

    In terms of PWM fan control the standard fan control setup in Links is switched but you can use a GP PWM which would allow you to setup desired PWM duty cycle on a 3d table.

  18. 9 minutes ago, jzxmaniac said:

    bottom left of gauge. Unfortunately I took this with the car running but I will take another one with it off later to show you what I mean 

    IMG_9888.png

    The PSIG means Gauge pressure in psi which is absolute minus barometric

    If you are seeing a negative value with the car off you will need to look at what your absolute and Barometric values are to make sure they are set up right, a drifting calibration can be indicative of a failing sensor

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