Mot
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Posts posted by Mot
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18 hours ago, Mot said:
Does that mean I can connect a Windows tablet with USB and another device via CAN simultaneously.
For example to have monitoring/logging/tuning via USB and at the same time use another device via CAN (Real Dash to send button commands to the ECU)?
4 hours ago, Adamw said:Yes.
How would you realize this while using a GTTLink (NGTT+) and trying to get the CAN information wirelessly (wifi would be preferred) to the Realdash device (tablet/mobile phone).
For example when using the MeatPi CAN adapter, that connects to the car via OBD, I would have to purchase a CANPCB (SKU 101-0022) cable from Link and would then have to wire that to the MeatPi? Or do I have that wrong somehow?
If so, are there any adapters out there for this kind of application or do I have to pull the MeatPi apart/make my own plug?
Another problem I can see with my specific application is the firmware of the ECU because it's a G4+ Plugin which is relatively old and for example doesn't support CAN keypads as far as I remember from reading the forum.
Would be pretty annoying to buy/set up all that to then find out my ECU is too old.
Firmware I'm running at the moment is 5.5.3.2802 which would need updating to 5.6.8.3671 which seems to be the latest for the G4+ plugins. Any pointers on what to look out for when doing the update?
Sorry, lots of questions in this one
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On 8/21/2021 at 12:39 AM, Adamw said:
With CAN you can customise what channels you want, you can send data both ways so onscreen buttons can control ecu functions, and you can still tune with the dash connected.
Does that mean I can connect a Windows tablet with USB and another device via CAN simultaneously.
For example to have monitoring/logging/tuning via USB and at the same time use another device via CAN (Real Dash to send button commands to the ECU)?
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On 4/5/2019 at 11:32 AM, dynoiasi said:
Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software.
Best regards,
Florin
I would very much like this.
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On 2/20/2019 at 4:45 AM, Adamw said:
Why dont you just put 12V to the other side of the relay coil like the help file shows? Like this:
FYI: Did this today and it worked.
Also measured how large the load from the realy was - a whopping 0,18A...
I do understand that the plug-in boards are designed to provide all the necessary functions for stock/OEM cars.
I do not understand the lack of documentation concerning the matter.
Glad for the support in the forums though!
So keep up the good work here!
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5 hours ago, Canisbellum said:
(Shouldn't this be in the known issues section of the manual then?
Would have a saved me a lot of time and head ache)
Its not an issue its how 12v systems work.
Excuse me?
- having the option to enable it in the software
- the ECU measurably doing it
- then failing without further notice
- the manufacturer stating some of the ECU's don't support this, but it's not mentioned exactly which ones
- no indication in the manual either
I don't think "that's how 12v systems work" is the right description of the problem here.
5 hours ago, cj said:I dont know which product exactly you have but arent these the things you hold down the button for ~5 seconds to open it, and a different button to close it? This may not be just a simple case of "turn on a relay and leave it". You potentially have to have a timer (which the ecu can do) so it only triggers the output for ~5 seconds so it doesnt burn out the motor driving it "more open" the entire time.
If you havent done it already, it would pay to stick a multimeter on whichever side of the controller box this thing presumably has where you plan to splice into the wires and confirm that
a) its electrically just an on/off switch, and not a "swap the voltage over to drive the motor shut" arrangement
b) figure out whether it drives the motor permanently, just for a second, or for a set amount of time. (and the same for closing it)
The last one of these I saw was basically just a DC motor attached to a throttle butterfly and you had to provide reverse current to close it, which is do-able using 2x outlets and some careful arrangements of relays but it requires a bit of planning
The remote control tells a little black box to permanently send 12v to the magnetic valve, which in turn opens to let the vacuum through to the exhaust flap.
If you remove the 12v from the solenoid, the valve will shut and the flap will open.
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
It has a weak 12V pull-up so it will go to 12V when it is off but it wont have enough current to drive a relay. This is done so that things like a tacho that needs a 0-12V pulse will work.
Shouldn't this be in the known issues section of the manual then?
Would have a saved me a lot of time and head ache.
3 hours ago, Adamw said:Why dont you just put 12V to the other side of the relay coil like the help file shows? Like this:
Yeah, I'll do that then.
I will however need a second relay to do it.
The existing one needs to be high side driven, because there was an existing remote control (key fob) for the exhaust valve already in the car, which I wanted to keep.
So wiring the Link aux in parallel with a blocking diode seemed the easier way to do it.
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Huh?
Meaning that it will show an output of 12V on the Aux 7, but if connect a load to it, the voltage will drop/it won't work?
Wouldn't it be better if it didn't output anything at all then?
Regardless of what the software says.
Guess I'll have to put another relay in, that I can lowside drive to output my desired 12V then?
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Hey everyone!
I'm trying to switch a relay for a magnetic valve that controls an exhaust valve, but seem to be running into a problem.
Using Aux 7 and this type of relay.
Managed to set it up as GP Out / high drive, because the solenoid needs the 12v to switch.
If I use the test (on) on the GP Out, I get the expected output of 12V.
However if I connect this to the relay, the voltage drops to zero.
Tried connecting it directly to the solenoid, but the same thing happens.
Probably because the load without a relay would be too high.
What am I doing wrong here?
Is there a general downside to using an aux port as high side driven?
Can post a wiring diagram/pictures tomorrow, but it's 3 am here already and I'm done for today :-(
Thanks & regards,
Thomas
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On 4/20/2018 at 2:40 AM, MagicMike said:
Not power related, but last night, I took control of my home computers (desktop and laptop) from my in car computer, via wifi hotspot on my fone.
And vice versa. Was testing to see if I had to use my laptop plugged straight into the ECU (or if I could just use my PIPO) to remote tune.
Haven't road tested, but looks promising.
I did remote tuning with my tablet once.
Had my mapper remote in via LTE connection on my phone, shared with wifi to my tablet.
Worked okay on a german autobahn :-)
On 6/7/2018 at 6:05 PM, kalsonc said:Tenny or Mot
Any update regarding the tablet running through a otg hub can charge and data at the same time?
Still working good for me so far.
Tablet is mentioned in a post above.
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If someone is still looking for a Windows Tablet that has confirmed OTG working:
I'm using a Jumper EZpad mini 4, which is working pretty good in my R34 GTT since last summer.
Mounted it on my dashboard above the climate control using neodym magnets (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet) that are installed behind the dash plastic and hook onto metal plates glued to the tablet.
So you can easily remove the tablet without the dash looking like crap
Charging at full display brightness is limited, but the battery is big enough that you can do 4+ hour drives without problems.
The tablet is fast enough to be used as a display and for limited additional functionality (like turn on logging etc.), but for proper tuning it is sadly too slow.
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Any news on new firmware/PC Link updates?
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I think you will have to work that out yourself. If it is a resistance type sensor you will need to test it at multiple pressures, if it is a voltage type then just zero and some higher pressure will be all you need to test.
Well, the service manual for the R34 says its resistance type. Is that something the Link can work with?
We dont have a solution for this. It would need another "display mode" created to achieve some type of pseudo partial full screen mode. I believe the native windows fullscreen switch hides the taskbar and we dont have any control over that.
Or just an option to hide the menu bar. Which would essentially do the same ;-)
I'll keep looking into that through 3rd party software... if I find a solution, I'll share it.
This one is on the wish list already, "virtual" or "software" DI's. We have had some tuners for instance that want something like an "engine kill" button on their screen. No promises how far away it is though.
Good to know other people want that as well, that increases the chances for getting it ;D
Edit: Thanks for the fast reply, didn't expect that :-)
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Hi Link!
First of all - great ECU, my R34 GTT is working better than ever. :-)
One of the things that I would like to do is use the OEM Oil temperature sensor and feed it into the Link.
As the OEM ECU doesn't have an input for that, the GTTLink can't do it with the factory wiring.
However the pinout for the triple pod gauge on the dash of the R34 GTT is very easy to read, so I found out that the oil temperature sensor signal is on pin 17.
Does anybody know what kind of signal the sensor produces or do I have to get my multimeter out? :-)
Another thing that is a bit annoying is in the PCLink software, that I use on my in car Windows 10 tablet, the windows task bar is not visible in either full screen mode.
I do love full screen mode, but I need the taskbar to easily change the screen brightness when driving at night.
Apparently there is also no easy solution to have windows permanently show the bask bar on top (try googling it, you will find only people who want taskbar on top disabled...).
A cool feature would also be "software switches", that could be added to a view panel, so you can for example easily switch between a low boost and a high boost setting.
I know this is possible with a hardware switch connected to the Link ECU, but didn't see an easy way to do it in software without multiple clicks (for example loading another map).
Thanks and regards,
Thomas
Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows
in G4+
Posted
@Laminar & @jdniss Thanks for clarification on the MeatPI products.
Leaves only the firmware concerns with my GTTLink (NGTT+), which @Adamw can may be comment on?