Mot

@Laminar & @jdniss Thanks for clarification on the MeatPI products. Leaves only the firmware concerns with my GTTLink (NGTT+), which @Adamw can may be comment on?

How would you realize this while using a GTTLink (NGTT+) and trying to get the CAN information wirelessly (wifi would be preferred) to the Realdash device (tablet/mobile phone). For example when using the MeatPi CAN adapter, that connects to the car via OBD, I would have to purchase a CANPCB (SKU 101-0022) cable from Link and would then have to wire that to the MeatPi? Or do I have that wrong somehow? If so, are there any adapters out there for this kind of application or do I have to pull the MeatPi apart/make my own plug? Another problem I can see with my specific application is the firmware of the ECU because it's a G4+ Plugin which is relatively old and for example doesn't support CAN keypads as far as I remember from reading the forum. Would be pretty annoying to buy/set up all that to then find out my ECU is too old. Firmware I'm running at the moment is 5.5.3.2802 which would need updating to 5.6.8.3671 which seems to be the latest for the G4+ plugins. Any pointers on what to look out for when doing the update? Sorry, lots of questions in this one

Does that mean I can connect a Windows tablet with USB and another device via CAN simultaneously. For example to have monitoring/logging/tuning via USB and at the same time use another device via CAN (Real Dash to send button commands to the ECU)?

Great guide, thanks!

I would very much like this.

FYI: Did this today and it worked. Also measured how large the load from the realy was - a whopping 0,18A... I do understand that the plug-in boards are designed to provide all the necessary functions for stock/OEM cars. I do not understand the lack of documentation concerning the matter. Glad for the support in the forums though! So keep up the good work here!

Excuse me? - having the option to enable it in the software - the ECU measurably doing it - then failing without further notice - the manufacturer stating some of the ECU's don't support this, but it's not mentioned exactly which ones - no indication in the manual either I don't think "that's how 12v systems work" is the right description of the problem here. The remote control tells a little black box to permanently send 12v to the magnetic valve, which in turn opens to let the vacuum through to the exhaust flap. If you remove the 12v from the solenoid, the valve will shut and the flap will open.

Shouldn't this be in the known issues section of the manual then? Would have a saved me a lot of time and head ache. Yeah, I'll do that then. I will however need a second relay to do it. The existing one needs to be high side driven, because there was an existing remote control (key fob) for the exhaust valve already in the car, which I wanted to keep. So wiring the Link aux in parallel with a blocking diode seemed the easier way to do it.

Huh? Meaning that it will show an output of 12V on the Aux 7, but if connect a load to it, the voltage will drop/it won't work? Wouldn't it be better if it didn't output anything at all then? Regardless of what the software says. Guess I'll have to put another relay in, that I can lowside drive to output my desired 12V then?

Hey everyone! I'm trying to switch a relay for a magnetic valve that controls an exhaust valve, but seem to be running into a problem. Using Aux 7 and this type of relay. Managed to set it up as GP Out / high drive, because the solenoid needs the 12v to switch. If I use the test (on) on the GP Out, I get the expected output of 12V. However if I connect this to the relay, the voltage drops to zero. Tried connecting it directly to the solenoid, but the same thing happens. Probably because the load without a relay would be too high. What am I doing wrong here? Is there a general downside to using an aux port as high side driven? Can post a wiring diagram/pictures tomorrow, but it's 3 am here already and I'm done for today :-( Thanks & regards, Thomas

I did remote tuning with my tablet once. Had my mapper remote in via LTE connection on my phone, shared with wifi to my tablet. Worked okay on a german autobahn :-) Still working good for me so far. Tablet is mentioned in a post above.

If someone is still looking for a Windows Tablet that has confirmed OTG working: I'm using a Jumper EZpad mini 4, which is working pretty good in my R34 GTT since last summer. Mounted it on my dashboard above the climate control using neodym magnets (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet) that are installed behind the dash plastic and hook onto metal plates glued to the tablet. So you can easily remove the tablet without the dash looking like crap Charging at full display brightness is limited, but the battery is big enough that you can do 4+ hour drives without problems. The tablet is fast enough to be used as a display and for limited additional functionality (like turn on logging etc.), but for proper tuning it is sadly too slow.

Any news on new firmware/PC Link updates?

Well, the service manual for the R34 says its resistance type. Is that something the Link can work with? Or just an option to hide the menu bar. Which would essentially do the same ;-) I'll keep looking into that through 3rd party software... if I find a solution, I'll share it. Good to know other people want that as well, that increases the chances for getting it ;D Edit: Thanks for the fast reply, didn't expect that :-)

Hi Link! First of all - great ECU, my R34 GTT is working better than ever. :-) One of the things that I would like to do is use the OEM Oil temperature sensor and feed it into the Link. As the OEM ECU doesn't have an input for that, the GTTLink can't do it with the factory wiring. However the pinout for the triple pod gauge on the dash of the R34 GTT is very easy to read, so I found out that the oil temperature sensor signal is on pin 17. Does anybody know what kind of signal the sensor produces or do I have to get my multimeter out? :-) Another thing that is a bit annoying is in the PCLink software, that I use on my in car Windows 10 tablet, the windows task bar is not visible in either full screen mode. I do love full screen mode, but I need the taskbar to easily change the screen brightness when driving at night. Apparently there is also no easy solution to have windows permanently show the bask bar on top (try googling it, you will find only people who want taskbar on top disabled...). A cool feature would also be "software switches", that could be added to a view panel, so you can for example easily switch between a low boost and a high boost setting. I know this is possible with a hardware switch connected to the Link ECU, but didn't see an easy way to do it in software without multiple clicks (for example loading another map). Thanks and regards, Thomas