Toliski
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Posts posted by Toliski
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Hmmm, thats weird, the triggerscope looks ok, I really expected to see something wrong that would explain the jumpy dwell. It wouldnt hurt to check the distributor/CAS doesnt have lots of backlash or the sensor has come lose inside etc.
Did it help idle when you richened up the target table or was it still similar?
Actually looking at the log again the idle doesnt actually look too bad. Can you explain a bit better what you mean by "I cant make my idle to stabilize"
I try to make another log later with the richer idle to see if its better.
If i try to idle at 900 is unstable if i try to idle at 1000 its a little better.
I run COP setup with stock distributor. The distributor position is as you suggest me at older topic at middle.
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Trigger Scope Log 2018-05-23 1;05;22 pm.llg At 1000Rpm
I just see that my injector latency times are off.
This can be a problem at idle?
I have PL4-1000 RC injectors and i have no Short pulse times.I just see my unstable Dwell time.
My triggers seems ok.
my Batt voltage is 13.9-14.0
Why my dwell is so unstable? -
Hello guys i just rebuild my engine. I cant make my idle to stabilize. here is my log and map.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U_63gV792KtbBYKAxEVSkcmBwhEIyyUx/view?usp=sharing Map
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11K24tY3ZUueCi9OVUfwVdM_VlcJdHa5D/view?usp=sharing Log3sgte st205 engine
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I try the filter, and do the trick! Thanks guys!!!
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6 hours ago, Adamw said:
This "noise" you have here is more likely just due to the poor trigger design. Your engine position signal is coming from within a distributor that is connected via a loose mechanical coupling to a camshaft which is then connected to the crankshaft via a "rubber" belt. So you have mechanical backlash, valve train resonance and cam belt resonance all contributing to an inaccurate engine position signal.
Converting to a crank mounted trigger wheel is the proper fix.
The "RPM filtering" setting under trigger setup may help a little.
Thanks Adam! I will try it!
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22 hours ago, ClintBHP said:
When you say must I rarely do and don’t seem to suffer.
When you say noisey can you show us, is it always noisey or just when cranking,.
Shielded twisted wire is best, the shield grounded at the ECU end only. Twisting cable helps reduce magnetic interference which is the most likely cause of noise.
alao check all your earths
have you played with the filtering and arming thresholds?
All my Rpm signla is like this one.
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Hello guys i have a 3sgte with cop and G4+ plug in.
i have very noisy RPM signal, i am at stock harness.
I know that i must change the crank/cam wires with shield one but i want to ask, at 3sgte the crank and cam sensors are in the distributor?
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Hello guys today I try to play with Cl Lambda control. I found something at Gain table.
At Options-Preferences-Units have already set the Lambda to AFR 2-3 months ago.
Today I found that the Gain table the +/- Lambda error is at Lambda values. ( I think ).
Can I correct it or i must make the conversation by my self?
If yes what is the values for Lambda error 0.033 - 0.066 - 0.100 - 0.133 - 0.166 to AFR errorAnd can anyone tell me the suggested values to start with for Gain table and Rate table.
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Sorry guys the ground wire for Cop setup just cutted.
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it's stock harness.
but the engine run fine until now....
is there a possibility to burn all coils at the same time?
And i try in downhill with gear and nothing.
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And here is the log guys
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Hello guys I have a problem.
My 3s gte with cop (same setup for a month ago running fine)
Today as I drive the engine shut down and don't start again.
I make a trigger scope.
I check for ignition spark and the COP's don't fire.
Whats the problem here?
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Perfect thank you Adam.
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Hello guys.
iI want to enable launch control from my ecu I try but I can't manage to make it work.
I want it simple just lower rpm limit when I have 0 speed. I don't want switches and other stuff. And I have available only the driven wheels speed.
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3 hours ago, MGV101 said:
Yes, open up the relay and take out the switch. You don't need that part, just the coil.
I used a relay on mine too (although a little different and involved the use and a transistor) and have removed the switch.
I try it!
i have never opened a relay
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Hello guys i just make the COP and every think works fine except the tacho.
i have 3s but on mr2 spyder.
I don't find any resistors like mentioned above at my tacho.
I just make the mod with the relay like that picture and works fine but i have the annoying relay clicking with every engine rev, if i rev to 7000 rpm i feeling that the relay might blow up!!! is there any other type relay or other mod to do?
This is my tacho ( Microsoft drive link) https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmIEUc98EM73hokm5iFJV-DY5ZFTxA
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48 minutes ago, MGV101 said:
Yes the software is a little confusing here. Once you switch to direct spark it actually sets ign 1 to 4 as ignition output and locks it. Whatever you see in the settings does not matter and will be ignored.
For the peace of mind, you can switch ignition main back to distributor and that will unlock ign 2 to 4 and manually set it as ignition then revert ignition main back to direct spark again.
ok i try it.
thanks a lot
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Just COP guys.
Today i try to make the Cop thing.
Well jus finish alla harness and try to put the settings to ECU.
Ignition main changed to direct spark.
base timming advanced by 360 degrees
dwell times changed.Ignition1 drive is at ignition.
Ignition2 drive is at purge and its LockedIgnition 3-4 its OFF and Locked
am i making any mistake here?
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and can i power my solenoid valve and COP setup from B+ or 14+ on link manual pin?
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7 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you want more than 2 positions then most likely a multi-position rotary switch is the best option. It will be connected to 5V to give a 0-5V input. There are various manufacturers offering these.
There is a thread here with an example setup:
another question to produce 0-5v
i must give to switch 12v and it made it -5v?
or must give the switch 5v and made it 0-5v?
for second option from where i take 5v signal?
Unstable Idle
in G4+
Posted
Here is my idle log https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yKSws-qE7iY1v1xnx-aSL3u576guCcY5
And here is my map. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bMhgGjba2iPem8h45GIZyJ6PmP3wjlic
After i correct my injector latency times my AFR changed so i correct only the low load area until 2500rpm.
I am at Break in period i cant tune further until i do a few more miles.