z80 Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Hi guys, I have a Mitsubishi 380 with twin turbos etc all setup for me a few years ago by a tune shop that has now disappeared. Am having a couple of niggling issues (that have always had) hoping that someone can figure out what the problem is , or a "fine tune". Problem #1 idle hunts around and dips low enough to trigger oil pressure warning...only when hot. Problem #2...does not start as easily as it should...starts second time...or when warm no probs Problem #3..at around 1500rpm and light throttle engine seems to either starve of fuel or ignition cut out The original tuner drilled a hole in the throttle body...but I reckon that's crap and plugged it up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Attached is the tune file....luckily unlocked. turbo tune as delivered g4.pcl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Can you also do a PC log capturing some of these problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted April 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Thanks for the quick reply Adam, will do ASAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 Ok...the oil pressure sender they put on was 0.4 bar and the correct one was 0.3 bar...that problem fixed...Grrrrr! In the configs the boost controller is set at 1500rpm...(dunno if that matters) I played around with the fuel cells round idle and improved it a bit...but not perfect. Attached is a log file of idle when put into drive...it just lopes round. Attached also is a drive log with light throttle, 90kmh and an engine behavior that simulates a pressing/releasing of the throttle constantly. The Innovate LC-1 wide band seems to be behaving weird... Any advice appreciated....... idle wavering-Log 15-05-20 1;47;21 pm-putting into drive-this one.llg engine loping at 90kmh-Log 15-05-20 1;45;24 pm-this one.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 There's some very weird stuff going on with ignition timing. I think the idle problem is due to the 5D ign table that pulls 37degs advance out. Im not sure what the purpose of that table is. It is controlled by something that switches on and off on DI2 and something that reads from 0-100 on AN Volt 2, do you know what either of these inputs are wired to? AN Volt 2 follows a similar curve to TP or MAP but it is not exactly the same as either. Looking at this 5D table more, I think this might be a fix for his "drilled hole", maybe it was too big so he had to pull 20-50deg timing out to get it to idle? Or was it for pops and bangs or something? Idle ignition control looks like it has been set up at some stage but then disabled - all the lockouts are set to zero. The motorway surging Im not sure on, it doesnt have as much advance as I would normally want to see in cruise conditions which is probably some of it, but the wideband is not working either so it could potentially be fuel related too. It really needs to go to a competent tuner so they can tidy up some of this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted May 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 Adam, one of the inputs I seem to recall is a cam sensor on the front bank camshaft. Another is for an Innovate LC-1 wideband...which I have just discovered is connected at the back end of the catalyctic converter instead of the front engine end....sheesh.... The cam sensor I recall is same as on a WRX...it rubs on the plastic timing belt cover and looks poorly secured (changing its rotational position) There is a boost controller connected also. So many instances of bad work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 22, 2020 Report Share Posted May 22, 2020 No those inputs are not cam or wideband. They appear to be some hack to control idle but I dont know what they are connected to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 Further to this I discovered that one of the cats was completely hollowed out...(in a full length dual system) Replaced the entire exhaust system with a variant that approximates a stock setup, fitted new cat. Found that the wideband O2 sensor was installed after the cats instead of prior (Innovate instructions clearly state upstream for accurate functionality) About to install new O2 sensor, car is running a lot better albeit slightly down on power (but has more than enough for street use...) I don't have a dyno to do a diagnosis of my problem at 90km/h on low throttle..so was wondering does the G4 have a drive and tune feature like some ECU's have? Basically to fill ignition and fuel tune map cells with suggested values as I drive along? It's probably wishful thinking...but hey...what a great feature it would be.. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 25, 2021 Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 There is autotune functionality for fuel but it is really designed for the dyno where you can hold it steady state in a specific cell. No ecu can self tune ignition as you would need some way of measuring torque as feedback. But as I said earlier there is a whole lot of weird stuff set up in your map that is not going to make it easy to tune, it really needs an experienced tuner to put it back to basics. There is a 5D ignition table set up pulling 50 deg timing out under some conditions, controlled by AN volt 2, but who knows what that is connected to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Adamw said: There is autotune functionality for fuel but it is really designed for the dyno where you can hold it steady state in a specific cell. No ecu can self tune ignition as you would need some way of measuring torque as feedback. But as I said earlier there is a whole lot of weird stuff set up in your map that is not going to make it easy to tune, it really needs an experienced tuner to put it back to basics. There is a 5D ignition table set up pulling 50 deg timing out under some conditions, controlled by AN volt 2, but who knows what that is connected to. Thanks Adamw...was hoping to improve the driveability to get the car from Tasmania back to mainland Australia (400km drive plus ferry trip...plus more miles) There appears to be no link dealer/tuner in Tasmania. The only business that talks any sense admitted they don't own a dyno so can offer only a limited service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z80 Posted October 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2021 Just an update on this old thread...haven't been driving this car much due to Covid etc.....BUT.... Problem fixed...turned out to be a dodgy transmission mount...at zero throttle and light load it was banging internally. it's the rollover mount in a FWD...a shim was missing...so 9mm bolt in a 15mm sleeve was banging away..even randomly triggering the knock sensor. thanks for all the help....at east I tuned the tune...LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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