2grfe Trigger2

[lemmy01]

Im a little unsure what Inlet/LH means.

The manual use the Bank1/Bank2 term instead of RH/LH

Im think its Bank1 (Cyl 1;3;5 )

[Simon]

LH = Left hand RH= Right hand.

Think of the side of the car the driver sits on.

Left hand drive you are on the left side of the car.

[lemmy01]

As you see there is no left or right bank only front and rear.

I dont know how this engine is orig. fitted

[Simon]

haha true!

left bank will be on left side if looking at engine from flywheel end.

[lemmy01]

Thanks Simon.

Then should this the right trigger setup for the 2grfe?

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/65/trigger.pdf

[Simon]

Couple of tweaks. Supply for the cam sensors will be better from 8V.

NE- on crank should be to the sensor ground. NE+ to the trigger 1

[lemmy01]

Thanks to look at my diagram!

But the 2grfe manual says this about the voltage:

And the the ground i decided to use because the engine A loom from vipec use it to.

Can you spend me some light

[Simon]

If factory has the supply at 5V then stick with that.

For the crank sensor it is important to get the polarity correct as it will effect the triggering if it is wrong.

Toyota use the polarity the same as we do so the NE- will need to be connected to the ground in the shielded trigger cable.

[lemmy01]

The VVT/LH sensor is also needed for VVTI so i have to split the VVL+ line and wire it to Trigger2 and DI1?

[Simon]

No need to split the signal. Trigger 2 also has vvt settings. So it can do both jobs.

[lemmy01]

Thanks Simon that saves me one digi. Input :-)

is it right that the 2wire 5v Camshaft timing Oil Control Valve's must be driven on the low side?

OE1+,OE2+,OC1+,OC2+ goes to 5V from ecu and OE1-,OE2-,OC1-,OC2- to Aux1-4.

And one more question (hope dont nerve you)

is there something against to wire the 6 coils and 6 inj to Inj1,Inj2,Inj3(plugA),Inj5,Inj6,Inj7(plugB)

Or is it necessary to use the serial order and have 4 on the Aplug and 2 on the Bplug

[Dave Kriedeman]

Are the camshaft oil control valves simple ON/OFF devices or are they PWM controlled devices.

Low side driven is the normal method for most switching and controlled outputs, if you wish to switch positive then you need to use a relay.

If the solenoids are PWM then you definately must run low side anyway as the PWM outputs are controlled via ground switching (low side).

Are you sure the solenoids run on 5 volts, i am not familiar with this engine so just checking.

As for your injector wiring, do you wish to run sequential or batch,group fire.

If sequential then use injector outputs 1through to 6 on connectors A and B.

Inj 1 to Inj output 1

Inj 2 to Inj output 2 etc,etc.

The firing order is then setup in the Configuration Tab.

Same for the Ignition Outputs.

Seqential use Ign outputs 1 through to 6.

Unless you wish to run Wasted Spark.

Hope this helps.

[lemmy01]

And one more question (hope dont nerve you)

is there something against to wire the 6 coils and 6 inj to Inj1,Inj2,Inj3(plugA),Inj5,Inj6,Inj7(plugB) 

Or is it necessary to use the serial order and have 4 on the Aplug and 2 on the Bplug

Seems that the ecu dont allow that. Have it rewired to normal.1-4 from Aplug and 5-6 from Bplug

I tried to setup the DBW.

The FPS calibrate as it should.runtime values are correct.

The TPS dont calibrate .Gives me at first the error that it could not reach 98%.

But the throttle blade moves and as i noticed in runtime window TP(main) works and shows the right value.

Then i get a:

ECU Fault Code 70: E-Throttle Min %DC Limit

ECU Fault Code 84: Aux9/10/E-Throttle IC Over-temp

the throttle blade dos not move anymore.

I wired as shown in the help:12v to aux 9/10, ethrottle relais on aux 5.

[Jason]

on the 1zzfe and 2zzge I wire the oil control valves to ignition switched 12V and drive them on the low side with an aux out. I'm not sure the vipec 5V feed can supply enough current to drive the solenoids.

[lemmy01]

on the 1zzfe and 2zzge I wire the oil control valves to ignition switched 12V and drive them on the low side with an aux out. I'm not sure the vipec 5V feed can supply enough current to drive the solenoids.

Hope Simon could answer if the 5V line could supply enough current. Im a little afraid to use 12v and damage my solonoids.

I find a waveform for the orig Toyo ECU controll the throttle motor.

Looked like they use 5V for the Throttle motor too. :shock:

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8276 ... rottle.pdf

Could you give me some advice how to setup the e-throttle.

[Simon]

E throttle and the control solenoids will have to be 12 fed from a relay as they will use more current than the ECU can supply from either the 5 or 8 volt outputs.

[lemmy01]

Thanks Simon,

i have the engine running without VVTI at the moment.

Starts on the first try :-)

But i have still the problem with the throttle-motor.

The ecu throws the ethrottle-IC over-temp message all the times.

The throttle dont move anymore.

I have pulled out the fuse from the 14V supply for Aux9/10 disconnect the e-throttle-plug and switch the e-throttle to off in software but still get this over-temp message.

I have several times reviewd my DBW wirering and still find no mistake.

Please help !

[Simon]

Make sure you have reset the ECU error log as well as the VTS errors.

With nothing connect it will not cause that error.

Over current normally occurs when the motor for throttle is trying to drive the butterfly further than it can move.

[lemmy01]

Is there a way to test my throttle-motor without the ecu?

Is there also a way to test the ecu e-throttle outputs without a oszilloscope (i have a fluke 88V multimeter)

so i could isolate whats wrong.

The toyota waveform from the factory ecu have 5 pulses/msec =5kHz .

Thanks

Ralf

[lemmy01]

After reseting the ecu-error codes and switching the polarity of the motor i get the e-throttle working.

Toyota M- ->ethrottle+

Toyota M+->ethrottle-

Thanks Simon

I read in the helpfile that the relay for ethrottle should connected to a spare ignition or injection output.

I have wired the relais to aux5 should i fix this?