Vidar Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 Link g4+ extreme Gm lt4 engine with hotcam and edelbrock heads. Aem smarty coils Can link lambda kit. Siemens deka 875 injectors Eficonnection 24x trigger kit Triggerkit gives same trigger pattern as ls1. But in one wheel mounted in front. Engine fires up when cold. And idle nice too coolant temp is 80degrese. Then it shuts down and firing up it get trigger error. When running triggerscope is perfect . 5.14v on crank and 12,2v on cam. When cranking rpm fluctates between 140rpm up too 3800rpm. Crank and cam sensor is hall Voltage is 12v in. Trigger setup is; Gm ls 5-10. Trig 1 Filtering 1 Pullup on. Rising edge. Trig 2 Filtrering 2 Pullup on Rising egde. Do not have file or trigger scope, enginge is remote tuning by teamveiwer, so he can bring car too dyno, and also get rid of birth problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 Will need the triggerscope to see what is wrong with the signal. Teamviewer has a file transfer function or you can get the remote user to email the file to you. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 He is coming with car too dyno. Then i can se more what's wrong. But he changed spark plugs, and then it runs much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 here is trigger scope Trigger Scope Log 2021-09-5 10;45;09 am.llg here is current map. when crancing rpm fluctates between zero and 5000rpm. sync error many times. trigg error startup.pclr also, it have started on these setting, but is running rough on idle, as ignition fluctates, but above 2000 rpm its running as should. i have not started it in dyno now. have trouble with trigger errors. i tried multi tooth setting with falling egde, then it got stable rpm signal while cranking, but no spark(did not use any time on that, was only too se if trigger respond normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 here is with 8v supply too triggers. also same. rpm fluctates between zero and 900rpm. and counting trigger errors high. tried multittooth setting with falling egde on trig 1. rpm stable around 140rpm, but no spark(checked with ignition lamp) i got spark on chevy ls1 5-10 trigger setup, but trigger error. have tried all diffrent filter setting on triggers without any luck(stored and repowered ecu each time) also tried many diffrent setting on multitooth setting. but no spark with correct rpm signal, but have spark with trigger errors and wrong rpm reading. battery voltage under cranking is 10.5v. fuel pump disconnected. it have started on ls1 5-10, but i mistake that its pure luck, when it was running idle was rough, but clean above 2000 rpm. trigg error startup 2 8v.pclr Trigger Scope Log 8v 2021-09-5 9;44;00 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 The trigger pattern is not a good match for the GM 24X, I think the problem maybe your trigger 2 is high for 23T and low for 25T. It should be high for 24T and low for 24T. I think multitooth mode should work though. Did you try settings like this? Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Multitooth with both trigger falling is testet. Stablw rpm signal. But no spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Can you please give us a log of it cranking using the multitooth mode and a copy of the map too please. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 stable rpm signal, but no spark. Trigger Scope Log multitooth2021-09-6 10;56;15 am.llg multitoothtrigger.pclr also attach pc log while cranking with multitooth setting cranking log multitooth.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 I would actually use rising edge on trig 2 - sorry I attatched the wrong picture earlier. But I dont see any reason for no spark in that log. There is RPM, dwell being commanded, and no ign cuts so you should have a spark. Have you pulled a plug out to confirm? Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 have ignition lamp on spark plug 1 it flashes on ign test. it also flashes with chevy ls 5-10 setting. but not on multitooth cranking logmultitoothrising.llg Trigger Scope Log multitoothrising2021-09-6 11;14;06 am.llg multitoothtriggerrisingtrig 2.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 I would still suggest you pull a spark plug out to confirm, I have been caught before where a timing light won’t pick up a spark when cranking before if the timing is a long way off. If the offset is out by a long way and it’s sparking on the intake stroke when there is vacuum in the cylinder for example, the spark voltage is very low and not enough to trigger the lamp. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Testet with spark plug. Adamw was right. It had spark. Found right trigger offset today also. 25 trigger offset Now its running. Have some checks too do before dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 still having som trouble with triggers. car run and idle smooth. running ok up too 4500rpm and get trigger error above 4500rpm. tried diffrent setting on rpm filtrering, without any luck. attach triggerscope on problem aera, attatch pclogging from dyno run. attach file from ecu. is it best too modyfy triggerwheel to 24-1? or is there anything else im missing? supply to triggers is now 8v from ecu. is it a option too use ignition 14v? i see gm sensor have 12v/14v from factory. 4500rpm522nm316whp.pclr Trigger Scope Log 4500rpmtrigger error2021-09-10 12;54;37 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log4000rpm 2021-09-10 1;09;16 pm.llg 4000rpm free rev trig error.llg 4500rpmtrigerror.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 i see myself on triggerscope that rising egde and falling egde on cam is changing position vs crank trigger on 4000-4500rpm i see falling on trig 1 occure same as rising on trig 2. but on idle/cranking i see distance between falling trig1 and rising trig 2. is trigger 2 priority a solution? or is it best to modyfi crank trigger wheel too 24-1 and use cam level on trigger 2? engine is gm lt4, and i suspect that what i see on trigger scope is movment av cam because register chain movment. what will be the best solution? cranking log multitooth.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 10, 2021 Report Share Posted September 10, 2021 9 hours ago, Vidar said: on 4000-4500rpm i see falling on trig 1 occure same as rising on trig 2. but on idle/cranking i see distance between falling trig1 and rising trig 2. Yeah this is the problem. Unfortunately both the rising and falling edge on trigger 2 are very close to the trigger 1 falling edge. So I dont think swapping the trigger 2 edge is going to help much. Is it possibly to maybe slot the holes a little on the cam "tooth wheel" to just rotate it a small amount, 5-10 degs? Or as you suggest removing a tooth from the crank wheel would be another option. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 Have to dissamble water pump and front cover of engine too get into trigger wheel. So no fast fix. Any suggestion witch tooth i should remove from wheel? Or should i fill gap between teeth? Also going too make gap betveen tooth same size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 It is not highly critical which tooth you remove, but I would suggest removing a tooth that is under the crank sensor when the cam sensor is roughly half way between edges. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 9 hours ago, Adamw said: It is not highly critical which tooth you remove, but I would suggest removing a tooth that is under the crank sensor when the cam sensor is roughly half way between edges. Is it best too remove a tooth, or best to fill gap between 2 tooths? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 Remove a tooth. Vidar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vidar Posted September 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 Is it because movment in registerchain/cam/home vs crank i have problem with ls 5-10 settings also? I've mesured movment, 6-7 degress on cam (12-14 on crank) customer is changing chain and wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 If you still have a trigger issue after removing a tooth then it is not related to movement between cam/crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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