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Gm lt4 with eficonnection 24x trigger kit


Vidar

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Link g4+ extreme

Gm lt4 engine with hotcam and edelbrock heads.

Aem smarty coils

Can link lambda kit.

Siemens deka 875 injectors

Eficonnection 24x trigger kit

Triggerkit gives same trigger pattern as ls1. But in one wheel mounted in front. 

Engine fires up when cold. And idle nice too coolant temp is 80degrese.

Then it shuts down and firing up it get trigger error. 

When running triggerscope is perfect .

5.14v on crank and 12,2v on cam. 

When cranking rpm fluctates between 140rpm up too 3800rpm. 

Crank and cam sensor is hall 

Voltage is 12v in.

Trigger setup is;

Gm ls 5-10.

Trig 1 

Filtering 1

Pullup on.

Rising edge.

Trig 2

Filtrering 2

Pullup on

Rising egde. 

Do not have file or trigger scope, enginge is remote tuning by teamveiwer, so he can bring car too dyno, and also get rid of birth problems. 

 

 

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here is trigger scope

Trigger Scope Log 2021-09-5 10;45;09 am.llg

here is current map.

 

when crancing rpm fluctates between zero and 5000rpm. sync error many times.

 

trigg error startup.pclr

also, it have started on these setting, but is running rough on idle, as ignition fluctates, but above 2000 rpm its running as should. 

i have not started it in dyno now. have trouble with trigger errors.

 

i tried multi tooth setting with falling egde, then it got stable rpm signal while cranking, but no spark(did not use any time on that, was only too se if trigger respond normal.

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here is with 8v supply too triggers. also same. rpm fluctates between  zero and 900rpm. and counting trigger errors high.

tried multittooth setting with falling egde on trig 1. rpm stable around 140rpm, but no spark(checked with ignition lamp)

i got spark on chevy ls1 5-10 trigger setup, but trigger error.

have tried all diffrent filter setting on triggers without any luck(stored and repowered ecu each time)

also tried many diffrent setting on multitooth setting. but no spark with correct rpm signal, but have spark with trigger errors and wrong rpm reading.

 

battery voltage under cranking is 10.5v. 

fuel pump disconnected.

 

it have started on ls1 5-10, but i mistake that its pure luck, when it was running idle was rough, but clean above 2000 rpm.

trigg error startup 2 8v.pclr Trigger Scope Log 8v 2021-09-5 9;44;00 pm.llg

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I would still suggest you pull a spark plug out to confirm, I have been caught before where a timing light won’t pick up a spark when cranking before if the timing is a long way off.  If the offset is out by a long way and it’s sparking on the intake stroke when there is vacuum in the cylinder for example, the spark voltage is very low and not enough to trigger the lamp.

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still having som trouble with triggers. car run and idle smooth. running ok up too 4500rpm and get trigger error above 4500rpm.

tried diffrent setting on rpm filtrering, without any luck.

attach triggerscope on problem aera,

attatch pclogging from dyno run.

attach file from ecu.

is it best too modyfy triggerwheel to 24-1?

or is there anything else im missing?

supply to triggers is now 8v from ecu. 

is it a option too use ignition 14v? 

i see gm sensor have 12v/14v from factory.

 

 

 

 

 

4500rpm522nm316whp.pclr Trigger Scope Log 4500rpmtrigger error2021-09-10 12;54;37 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log4000rpm 2021-09-10 1;09;16 pm.llg 4000rpm free rev trig error.llg 4500rpmtrigerror.llg

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i see myself on triggerscope that  rising egde and falling egde on cam is changing position vs crank trigger

on 4000-4500rpm i see falling on trig 1 occure same as rising on trig 2.

but on idle/cranking i see distance between falling trig1 and rising trig 2.

 is trigger 2 priority a solution?

or is it best to modyfi crank trigger wheel too 24-1 and use cam level on trigger 2? 

engine is gm lt4, and i suspect that what i see on trigger scope is movment av cam because register chain movment.

what will be the best solution?

cranking log multitooth.llg

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9 hours ago, Vidar said:

on 4000-4500rpm i see falling on trig 1 occure same as rising on trig 2.

but on idle/cranking i see distance between falling trig1 and rising trig 2.

Yeah this is the problem.  Unfortunately both the rising and falling edge on trigger 2 are very close to the trigger 1 falling edge.  So I dont think swapping the trigger 2 edge is going to help much.

Is it possibly to maybe slot the holes a little on the cam "tooth wheel" to just rotate it a small amount, 5-10 degs?

Or as you suggest removing a tooth from the crank wheel would be another option.  

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Have to dissamble water pump and front cover of engine too get into trigger wheel. 

So no fast fix. 

Any suggestion witch tooth i should remove from wheel? Or should i fill gap between teeth?  Also going too make gap betveen tooth same size.

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9 hours ago, Adamw said:

It is not highly critical which tooth you remove, but I would suggest removing a tooth that is under the crank sensor when the cam sensor is roughly half way between edges.

image.thumb.png.e10a01d0102d446db94b3b252967fa5d.png

 

Is it best too remove a tooth, or best to fill gap between 2 tooths?

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