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Posted

Okay as I mentioned in my other thread I was having a problem with my G4 Plus. I contacted Link, they sent me the form and address to send out to be repaired. 

In the meantime I bought the g4x. Should have it tomorrow or the next day. Downloaded the g4x software, and apparently I cannot just open the G4 plus file in the g4x.

 Is there any easy way to copy over my tune from the one to the other? Besides having my two laptops open and copying each value one at a time?

   I am not a tuner. But over the years I had the G4 Plus, I have made a lot of little changes that had the car running pretty good. I would hate to have to redo that whole process over again.

 

Posted

It has to be done manually, many of the strategies have changed so much they will need tuning from scratch.  Basic fuel and ignition are mostly pretty similar so the bulk of it will be ok, but accel enrichment, closed loop lambda, knock control, idle control, vvt etc have all changed a lot.  If you attach your two maps I can copy the settings over and set up decent starting points for most of the new stuff.

Posted

I've run into another question.

In the G4+ map, there is an Aux output assigned to VVT, and there is an elaborate blend of 2 fuel tables and 2 ign tables based on VVT cam position.  But then it is using a non-VVT trigger mode and no vvt is set up, so none of that would have ever worked?  Is it meant to have vvt or has it since been deleted?

Posted

Sorry about that. Yes it does have VVT, single Vanos. When number one stopped firing, I was in the process of fine tuning the first fuel map. So I temporarily switched VVT off. Normally it is on m52vvi. 

Posted

So what engine do you actually have?  Is it an M50TU and M52 has only two state on/off vanos, its position cant be controlled.  M52TU has infinitely variable  vanos on both intake and exhaust.

Posted

My engine is the M50 t u.

The reseller I bought the G4 plus from, loaded it with the m-52 base map. I did ask him why the m-52 instead of the M50. He said because the M50 only switches between the two maps based on Vanos activation. And since it takes a few seconds for the intake cam to fully advance once activated, he preferred using the m-52 set up. Because as the intake cam is transitioning , the two maps will blend over. 

I know in the factory Bosch ECU this is true. I have tuned the 413, and the ms41 in the past. Not sure if the link e c u does the same thing?

Posted

The cam position wouldnt even have worked using the multitooth missing trigger mode.  M52 uses a special trigger mode to use both edges on trig 2 to determine cam position.  I have never heard of anyone needing to do this and seems like a waste of time.  You obviously arent going to be able to do flex fuel either if you do this.  

 

Posted

That might explain why it was always so glitchy.

  The G4+ file I sent, was from the reseller. The changes I made to it was in the fuel tables and external inputs, fuel pressure, oil pressure, clutch pedal, front wheel speed sensor, and rev limit.

Posted

Map attached.  I have turned off the dual fuel tables and dual ign tables & VVT.  I think it is adding complication that is not necessary, I suggest try it without it and only add complication if needed.  Remember the OEM needs to keep lambda at 1.0 at all times, you dont need too, and if the fuel drifts a bit rich or lean for a split second while the cam moves, no one is going to know. 

I have turned off all the stuff that is going to mess up tuning - Individual cylinder ign & fuel trims, knock control has the retard limit set to 0.  I would probably turn of transient retard as well if it were me.  

Phoenix update 1.pclx

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...
Posted

@Adamw

hi .. can you help me with the same ?

my Link atom G4 got damaged but still i can extract the tuned files

i bought the Link G4x (atomX).. 

 

are you able to help me transfer ? please 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Ok, this should be about as similar as it can get.  CLL, Idle control, boost control and knock control will have to be validated and possibly retuned. 

  • I have zeroed the PID on the boost control so it doesnt do anything unexpected. 
  • I have entered CLL gains more suitable for G4X.
  • I have enabled Async injection, since accel fuel will need re-tuning anyhow.  
  • I have set knock control to individual cylinder control as G4X can do that with a distributor, G4+ couldnt.
  • I have turned off IAT fuel trim as its not normally used in modelled mode. 
  • I have set Fuel pump mode to standard relay in the G4X as you had Aux 4 assigned to speed control in the G4+ but it wouldnt have worked due to the pump speed control mode set to off.
  • You had "Purge" assigned to both Aux 8 & Ign 2 in the G4+, I have set it to Aux 8 in the G4X, so that needs to be confirmed. 
  • I left CAN1 channel 1 off as I suspect that wasnt doing anything in G4+.  

Converted from G4+.pclx

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi @Adamw - converted the MR2 to Coil-On-Plug recently on the g4+ so I haven't had the chance to run the new g4x config that you converted for me.  The car was running fine on the g4+ with COP before I installed the g4x.  Got the g4x installed, uploaded the config you provided, ported the COP specific settings from the g4+ over.  Now the car doesn't want to start.  Checked base timing and the car does not want to run with any base timing setting.  I suspect it's something else not related to the COP conversation but I'm not sure what.  Attached are the g4+ and current g4x configs along with the log of when I tried to start the car with the trigger scope.

Any idea on where I should start looking?

pre-g4x-cop.pclr G4XwithCOP.pclx PC Datalog - 2025-05-17 6;34;12 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llg5

Posted

Going over each item between the two ecu files, I found the following discrepancies:

1. The g4x AN Volt1 does not have a function assigned. The g4+ AN Volt1 has NB Oxy assigned. 

2. I have the Link CAN Lambda sensor hooked up to CAN1, but the g4x Lambda1 is not set to Link CAN, should it be?

Posted
16 hours ago, Adamw said:

Your crank sensor is wired with incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug. 

Indeed, it was.  Changed the polarity and the car started right up.  Thank you for the quick response.

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