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Haltech to Link


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Hey guys, I had an old g4 in my 33 GTR, mate gave me his Haltech but I’ve had nothing but misfire/trigger issues since the switch. 
I’ve heard the Elite 2500’s are a bit more fiddly to setup. 

My question, does the Link G4/G4x do something different at all in how it does it’s triggering or is it less sensitive? I feel there must be something different as the only variable change was the ecu and I’ve set it up near bang on as my old link. 

I might buy a  new G4x/+ if the aforementioned is the case.  


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Hard to give good objective info without more info on what the actual problem is, but just as a highly subjective and biased personal opinion I would like to say Link has had really good robust trigger conditioning and decoding for as long as I have used them - and Im not just saying that because I now work here, In my personal time I still tune all sorts.  I have worked for a Motec and Life racing dealer, used Autronic a lot in the early 2000s, owned a few cars with Haltechs over the years and have tuned pretty much every other consumer level ECU and many of the high end ones out there...  For me I would say by far Link has always given me the least amount of drama with triggering - and that was especially important a few years ago when ecu's didnt have built-in trigger scopes. 

In terms of the Nissan CAS, I believe the Haltech ECU's only use the 6 inner slots in the CAS for triggering - so effectively equivalent to only 3 teeth on the crank.  This should make it less fussy in terms of backlash etc but I would expect quite a bit of timing drift during fast acceleration.   Compared to the G4 which used all 360 slots, you will probably need quite a bit less advance in some areas to account for this drift.  You really need to seek advice from them to solve your issue, the RB is a common enough platform that you would expect they can run them ok.  

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