2.0L_turbo Posted November 8, 2021 Report Share Posted November 8, 2021 hey everyone I am trying to create a plug and play adapter for my 91 talon to a link stormX, so far I have made some good progress on playing connect the dots between the two wiring diagrams I have for the link ecu and the factory ecu now I am left with the things I do not understand where they would go could someone please help with that? also I know on my conversion diagram I have not added power wires/sensor grounds but I am aware that they need to be wired up so all that is listed is the signal wire. if anything is missing I would really appreciate to know! and one last thing the idle switch I was a bit confused on I know what it is and how it operates its just a single wire grounding circuit that when the throttle opens it is no longer grounded but if the ecu has a tps signal will this still be needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 Mostly looks right, 101 is a sensor ground not power ground. You can connect the sensor grounds to Link pins A7, A24, B17, B22. Idle switch is not needed. Dont forget to connect inputs like power steer switch, AC request and VSS to DI's. And Fuel pump relay and fans etc to auxes. You will need to add your own relay to control the main MPI relay like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 thanks for your help adam, interesting about pin 101 every pinout I find says its just a ground. and tghe reason I have the baro sensor marked is that is the wire that we use for the map sensor when using programs like ecmlink and aftermarket ecu's I should have labeled it map sensor they are all pined to the factory maf sensor plug and get a harness that allows easy installation of speed density. and as for the vss the car uses a reed switch so its speedo is cable driven not electronical do I just tap into the wiring for the reed switch on the back of the cluster? and what am I supposed to do about pins 108-110? again thank you for all your help I really appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 9, 2021 Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 22 minutes ago, 2.0L_turbo said: interesting about pin 101 every pinout I find says its just a ground. You might be right here, our VR4 infomation suggested it is signal ground, but I just found a Talon schematic in our library that shows it is connected in common to 106, but then also grounds the CAS so it is doing a bit of both. Possibly better to leave it as you originally had it as a main power ground (A34 or A25) 16 minutes ago, 2.0L_turbo said: and as for the vss the car uses a reed switch so its speedo is cable driven not electronical do I just tap into the wiring for the reed switch on the back of the cluster? VSS from the reed switch should be available on pin 18. 16 minutes ago, 2.0L_turbo said: and what am I supposed to do about pins 108-110? Pin 110 is shown on my relay drawing above. You can connect 108 to a DI if you wish (starter signal which can be used to activate pre-crank prime). 109 is not used, it looks like this was originally a signal from the ignitor which was used to tell the ecu to turn on the fuel pump relay (pin 56) with the original ecu. Our ecu does not need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 4 minutes ago, Adamw said: You might be right here, our VR4 infomation suggested it is signal ground, but I just found a Talon schematic in our library that shows it is connected in common to 106, but then also grounds the CAS so it is doing a bit of both. Possibly better to leave it as you originally had it as a main power ground (A34 or A25) VSS from the reed switch should be available on pin 18. Pin 110 is shown on my relay drawing above. You can connect 108 to a DI if you wish (starter signal which can be used to activate pre-crank prime). 109 is not used, it looks like this was originally a signal from the ignitor which was used to tell the ecu to turn on the fuel pump relay (pin 56) with the original ecu. Our ecu does not need it. perfect thanks so much for all this I will do up an updated pinout with things a bit more organized and add in a few things and then post back here your a huge help to me getting this ecu in the car I was fighting with a not so "plug and play" Aem ecu and I wish I would have just did this from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2021 ok I have made a revision to the pinning, from what I am understanding pins 25 and 34 on A and B connectors are grounds but do all 4 need to be grounded or can I use them as needed? its not an issue either way as I can simply join the two at my grounding point. if anything else looks like it needs to be added I would happily make the changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 Just 2 main grounds would be fine for a 4 cyl with saturated/high imp injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 10 hours ago, Adamw said: Just 2 main grounds would be fine for a 4 cyl with saturated/high imp injectors. what if the injectors are low impedance? I still have the factory resistors in place as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 The superseal 1.0 pins are rated at 15A each. A low imp injector with a ballast resistor will only be about 2A each, so 2 grounds will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 11 hours ago, Adamw said: The superseal 1.0 pins are rated at 15A each. A low imp injector with a ballast resistor will only be about 2A each, so 2 grounds will be fine. awesome thanks Adam does the rest of my revised wiring look good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 The IAT sensor doesnt need power. Neutral switch is not really needed, unless auto trans. The main relay control that you have on Ign 4 (10A) would probably be better to Ign 5-8 so you still have the ability to upgrade to direct spark in future. Rest looks ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Adamw said: The IAT sensor doesnt need power. that was actually a mistake It was late when I did this I must have thought that was map but that is already labeled. 1 hour ago, Adamw said: Neutral switch is not really needed, unless auto trans. it is an auto trans. 1 hour ago, Adamw said: The main relay control that you have on Ign 4 (10A) would probably be better to Ign 5-8 so you still have the ability to upgrade to direct spark in future. Rest looks ok thanks for all your help I am eager to make my harness just waiting on my link harnesses to show up and get a iat sensor and map sensor and then hopefuly I am tuning. one last question how do I add a wide band into this so it logs my wideband ? its a AEM 35-8460. I am pretty sure its the white wire off the wideband but would that go to an digital input or an aux? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 11, 2021 Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 46 minutes ago, 2.0L_turbo said: its a AEM 35-8460. That's not a wideband part number, that is just the part number of the plastic cup on the back which they use on all their gauges. Can you confirm which specific wideband you have - the current ones are 30-0300 or 30-4110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2021 27 minutes ago, Adamw said: That's not a wideband part number, that is just the part number of the plastic cup on the back which they use on all their gauges. Can you confirm which specific wideband you have - the current ones are 30-0300 or 30-4110 oh weird that's right on my gauge itself, but after looking at aem's site its the 30-4110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 Connect the AEM white wire to any spare AN Volt. Connect the AEM black wire to the engine block. 2.0L_turbo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted November 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 awesome thank you for all your help it has been very appreciated the link community is awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.0L_turbo Posted April 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2022 In reference to this relay diagram showed above have I wired this correctly and if so, is relay being setup so the ecu hold is set to pull to low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 6, 2022 Report Share Posted April 6, 2022 Yes, the ECU hold power aux output will be set to active state = low. This means it grounds pin 63&66 when it wants to keep the ecu powered up after ign is switched off.. 2.0L_turbo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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