hatchfan27 Posted December 30, 2021 Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 I just picked up the g4x plugin ECU for my 92 civic and had a question about wiring. Assuming "nc" in the wiring diagram means not connected, are these pins not connected in the ECU? The D plug has the most NC's including things like D10 (ELD). Can these wires be de-pinned and removed from the loom or possibly be assigned/reassigned in PCLink? This is all new to me as I switch from hondata and have to move inputs (EBC to aux 8, wideband input to AN Volt 4) Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 30, 2021 Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 Correct, NC means not connected. Pins marked NC are not used and not connected to anything on the ECU board. Unfortunately the HC92 adapter board is one that we havent updated for many years so it is lacking some of the extra IO that we include on newer ECU designs. It is marked for updating but it is a long way down the list of projects at the moment. For your boost solenoid another option may be Aux 4 (pin A20) if purge isnt important to you. Wideband could also go to AN Volt 2 (Pin D14) which was originally the narrowband O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchfan27 Posted December 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 Thanks @Adamw this does help and also simplifies wiring for me since the boost controller is currently pinned into a11 on the hondata. Simple move there. With the d pin not having a whole lot connected, I am curious about how the ECU handles electric loads since there is almost nothing left to monitor. Does the alternator just run at full output? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 30, 2021 Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 The factory ECU alternator control strategy would lower charging voltage under certain cruise conditions if electrical loads were low, this is done to improve fuel economy and lower emissions. In a performance situation where the user may not have perfect injector characterisation and typically has larger constant electrical loads such as a bigger fuel pump, trying to implement a strategy like this will only make the tuners life difficult for little benefit. Without it the Alternator will run at a constant 14.5V all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchfan27 Posted December 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 That's the exact answer that I was looking for. I already have a spal fan, bigger fuel pump, and mr2 hydro-eletric pump all on separate relays directly to the battery with a plan to try an electric AC system similar to what streetfx runs in their vr38 powered 86. I plan to simplify all of my wiring when I go to install the ECU with added COP and additional sensors while remove anything that isn't needed. Thanks for all your help @Adamw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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