Jump to content

Migrating from G4 to G4X and have a trigger problems


Peace

Recommended Posts

Hello
Can someone take a look and say is it normal or not
I have an RB30, with custom 36-1 wheel on crank and 1 on cam, both are reluctor wired on stock engine harness
Link g4 never had trigger scope and trigger setup had less options so i set it up on g4 6-8 years ago pretty easy.

Now with a fresh build and aiming for a better power i upgraded to g4x and here i faced troubles

That sync tooth thing i cant understand. With practice i found that my trigger is happy with sync tooth from 30 and up to 35, less than 30 and it start to sync a little slower, less than 27 it started to backfire in exhaust
But what i can see at trigger scope is that trig 2 happening at 26-27 teeth so as i understood description of sync tooth it should be tooth before cam even occur - but it does not work for me :(
here is how my trigger scope looks like at around 1000 RPM - this is about 0.5-0.55mm gap on both sensors

1807100385_2022-04-2123_37_51.thumb.png.9be37fe4975d508ad3b5c2f70c9b3782.png

some days before - i had gap closer about 0.3mm and i had issues with positioning i think. When i was trying to calibrate trigger it was giving me spark, next 2 -3 times i try to crank there is very poor spark on plug and it is not enough for strobe light to catch it so i decided to increase gap - and thats help, now i always have spark. I have picture of trigger scope if needed but dint think its relevant.

And finally - when that trigger gap were tight if i manage to start engine it was working fine, but now it starting every time but can only hold 500-600 RPM for short period of time and than stops. If i add Throttle it can get to 1500 or 2000 but car feels much worse than before with tight gap.
Yeah this is not yet completed - not connected exhaust and Wideband yet - so maybe it is a tune issue, but quick changes in cranking enrich, warmup enrich and fuel table 1 not help me, and with tighter gap it was working good, only thing i was worrying is that at 1000 RPM with 0.3 gap i was seeing 16v at trigger 1  and if i remember correct 6v at trigger 2. Never have expirience and looking at typical arming trheshold table that was working fine for me on g4 i thiught thats too high.

Also my concern is that although i dont have trigger error counter increase while engine running
I get trigger 1 states like counting timeout
I tried increasing arming threshold as i see pretty high voltages but that didn't helped and i returned them back.
Thats why i want to verify i'm good with trigger before continue to fine tune startup

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sync tooth isnt critical in this case with no vvt, for a missing tooth wheel and single cam tooth you just dont want the sync tooth anywhere near the cam tooth.  I would set it to sync tooth = 1, this is the same as what G4 & G4+ always used.   The sync tooth is just where the ecu starts and finishes its sync test.  So if you set the sync tooth to 1, everytime the crank sensor reaches tooth number 1 (the first tooth after the gap) the ecu checks whether it saw a cam pulse in the last 360 degs or not (ie it checks between tooth # 1 to tooth #1 in the next revolution), from this it knows which phase it is on.  

I dont think any of your issues sound trigger related, the trigger looks pretty good.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for clarification
I will be trying more
But somehow if i set sync tooth less than 30, there is backfire in exhaust, thought if i disable injection and do a trigger calibration with sync tooth = 1 it still fine and show on crnak exact what i ask in the trigger calibration pop-up.

Than what make me think it is trigger related?
Maybe you can take a look at trigger scope logs and give me advice is it ok or no?
I think i need to adjust arming threshold 
And one more thing confuses me, after the first trigger 1 teeth, peal voltage of the wave  of teeth falling a little up to 17 teeth from 10 to 7.5 volts and after that increasing and this picture is clear for all my scope - looks like my wheel is a little inperfect. Is this an issue or as long as it is within aring threshold it is fine?

TriggerScopeLog.llgx TriggerScopeLog1.llgx TriggerScopeLog2.llgx TriggerScopeLog3.llgx TriggerScopeLog4.llgx TriggerScopeLog5.llgx TriggerScopeLog6.llgx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Peace said:

But somehow if i set sync tooth less than 30, there is backfire in exhaust, thought if i disable injection and do a trigger calibration with sync tooth = 1 it still fine and show on crnak exact what i ask in the trigger calibration pop-up.

This is because your cam pulse is around tooth #29, so when you set sync tooth below 29 the cam pulse will then occur on the alternate revolution so trigger offset will be different by 360deg.   So if the engine runs with sync tooth above 30, then when you change sync tooth to 1 you will need to add or subtract 360 from your existing offset.  

 

10 hours ago, Peace said:

And one more thing confuses me, after the first trigger 1 teeth, peal voltage of the wave  of teeth falling a little up to 17 teeth from 10 to 7.5 volts and after that increasing and this picture is clear for all my scope - looks like my wheel is a little inperfect. Is this an issue or as long as it is within aring threshold it is fine?

If these scopes were taken during cranking on starter motor then this effect is normal, it is the crankshaft slowing down and speeding up as each piston on compression stroke reaches TDC.  However if the engine was running smoothly when scopes were taken then the peak voltage should be reasonably uniform - if not then that would indicate wheel runout.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Adamw said:

If these scopes were taken during cranking on starter motor then this effect is normal, it is the crankshaft slowing down and speeding up as each piston on compression stroke reaches TDC.  However if the engine was running smoothly when scopes were taken then the peak voltage should be reasonably uniform - if not then that would indicate wheel runout.   

This was during engine run but RPM not very stable but picture is pretty stable these part always lower than the end.
My question is this decrease in voltage cause an issue in ecu or as long as lowest reading is far more than arming threshold this will not cause and issues. 
Do i need to address this? or since ecu dont care actual peak voltages? because since the complexity of my setup this centering problem  of 0.1mm maybe very difficult to find and correct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...