E36 G4X No Start S50B30

[ryancyates]

I've installed an E36 plug and play ECU in my Euro E36 with a S50B30.

The car is attempting to start, I know I'm missing something simple but I can't figure it out.  I'm guessing it has something to do with the triggers and the trigger scope since I have almost no experience with it.  This is my first time using a LinkECU so it's a new experience for me.

The car is attempting to start, it sounds like an issue of timing.  I get a few hard cranks and some pops out of the exhaust.

I did switch from the traditional fueling method to the modeled but I haven't done anything with that area other than setting up the engine and injector size and setting up the injector dead time table.

I also haven't been able to do a MAP calibration because the MAP is reading 10.4psi while BAP is reading 14.8.  I'm not sure why this is.

I've verified all the wires that need to be rearranged for the G4X are correct and have output tested them.  I think this is an issue with trigger 1 and 2.  I've attached my file as well as a trigger log.  Maybe someone with more experience can tell me if I have this area set up incorrectly?

TriggerScopeLog.llgx BMW E36 G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

[Vaughan]

Triggers look fine

Modelled Fuel Tables tend to need different values to Traditional Fuel, often more like 70 at idle.

For the MAP sensor I suspect you have a 7 Bar onboard MAP sensor not a 4 Bar and so you need to go to Analog Inputs -> MAP and change the Calibration setting from 4 Bar to 7 Bar.

Have you tested the trigger offset with a timing light? Don't forget the timing light can be flashing at the correct time on the crank but be 360 out on the cam and so it's always a good idea to try both your current offset and current offset +/- 360.

Also looking through your tune it looks like you might have both Fuel and Ignition turned off which won't be helping.

[ryancyates]

Thank you so much for the quick reply!  I'm sorry that I'm a bit exhausted from trying to figure this out.

So, my trigger 1 and 2 look ok?

You're absolutely right about the MAP sensor!  That's my fault I didn't think the plug and play came with a 7 bar.  I should've checked.

The crank and cam part of this has been throwing me for a loop.  I've worked with dozens of ECUs I'm not sure why I'm finding this so intimidating.

And  yes I turned off the fueling and ignition while I was messing with different trigger settings.  The car has that 180 out sound to it, if that makes sense.  There's hesitation while cranking and some pops out of the exhaust.

[Vaughan]

9 minutes ago, ryancyates said:

So, my trigger 1 and 2 look ok?

It seems to be syncing fine so should run, on second inspection the shape of the Trigger 2 tooth is a little odd but I don't know my BMWs very well so maybe @Adamw might be able to comment on which particular sensors do work.

12 minutes ago, ryancyates said:

And  yes I turned off the fueling and ignition while I was messing with different trigger settings.  The car has that 180 out sound to it, if that makes sense.  There's hesitation while cranking and some pops out of the exhaust.

Decent chance it's got about about 1/3 of the fuel it needs for starting, and to confirm you have used a timing light to confirm it is sparking while cranking and is sparking at the correct angle?

[Adamw]

It looks to me like you had trigger 2 set to hall/opto when you done that scope capture as it is showing DC voltage, when set to reluctor the scope automatically changes to AC.  It is set correctly to reluctor in the map you attached so I suspect that setting was changed after you done the scope.  

Your cam sensor is wired with the incorrect polarity so you need to swap the +/- wires at the cam sensor plug.  I dont think that would prevent it from running though. 

I would also suggest changing your trigger 1 sync tooth to something like 10 as when you wire that cam sensor correctly your cam zero crossing will occur somewhere quite close to sync tooth 1.  You dont want the sync tooth anywhere the cam edge can cross over it. 

As for the no-go, I agree with Vaughan, most likely not enough fuel and your trigger offset is wrong.  Note fuel and ignition are turned off in your map but I assume that was on purpose.  Based on other S series engines I suspect the trigger offset will be more like 270 or -90, but you need to check this with a timing light.

[ryancyates]

54 minutes ago, Adamw said:

It looks to me like you had trigger 2 set to hall/opto when you done that scope capture as it is showing DC voltage, when set to reluctor the scope automatically changes to AC.  It is set correctly to reluctor in the map you attached so I suspect that setting was changed after you done the scope.  

Your cam sensor is wired with the incorrect polarity so you need to swap the +/- wires at the cam sensor plug.  I dont think that would prevent it from running though. 

I would also suggest changing your trigger 1 sync tooth to something like 10 as when you wire that cam sensor correctly your cam zero crossing will occur somewhere quite close to sync tooth 1.  You dont want the sync tooth anywhere the cam edge can cross over it. 

As for the no-go, I agree with Vaughan, most likely not enough fuel and your trigger offset is wrong.  Note fuel and ignition are turned off in your map but I assume that was on purpose.  Based on other S series engines I suspect the trigger offset will be more like 270 or -90, but you need to check this with a timing light.

Everything the both of you suggested worked.  The offset was almost 180* from the default setting of -328*.  Everything seems to line up at 324* but I'll check everything over again.

After that it fired up within a second of cranking and died off a few seconds later.  I added 30% to the entire fuel map just to see what would happen and it's idling wonderfully.

I changed the trigger 1 sync to 10 as you suggested and yes I found you had suggested the reluctor value for trigger to for someone previously so that's what I have in there now.  I can take another scope if you need me too.

Can I swap the plugs on the sensor itself or is it input dependent to the LinkECU?  I only ask because the sensor pins can be removed easily but the harness connectors are a nightmare.  And if you feel like it can you give a quick explanation of what you're looking at with the incorrect polarity?  I've seen you mention to several people the polarity of their sensors is backwards.  I understand what polarity is and how it works, more so what you're looking at on the trigger scope.

So thank you both very much.  I try to figure things out without just asking for the answer but I was just running out of ideas.  I recognized the symptom I just couldn't figure out what I was missing and it was very simple.  I appreciate it very much.

[Adamw]