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EcoBoost 2.7 compatibility - VVT, dome control, etc.


Laminar

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6 hours ago, Laminar said:

In the log below, there's a failed crank event followed by a successful crank event. Do I need to adjust my sync tooth and/or window? It's still 50/50 on whether it starts or just chuffs and/or blows fire.

It sounds like a mis-sync issue.  Although in that log the RPM drops to zero shortly after the first revolution which would suggest it wasn't happy with the crank signal as well.  Do us a few more crank scope captures. 

 

6 hours ago, Laminar said:

I calibrated my MAP sensor (factory IAT/MAP combo sensor Ford GV2A-9F479-BA "Germany") based on a known good MAP sensor and got 0V=10kPa and 5V=304kPa. The factory tune (via HPTuners) says the MAP sensor has a slope of 65.12kPa and offset of 0.47kPa. Using those numbers, I would calculate 0V=0.47kPa and 5V=326kPa. I can hook up a vacuum gauge to the manifold and compare it to the MAP reading while running but I haven't yet. All of that to say I'm not sure why my MAP signal is so high compared to what I would expect at idle.

The HP tuners cal sounds more normal for a 3Bar MAP.  Do either of the built-in bosch 3bar cals give you a MAP similar to BAP with engine off?  The 3.0bar @ 4.65V one covers about 95% of bosch 3bar sensors.  

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Switching to the [email protected] shows me 91.8kPa MAP vs 98.3 BAP, the 4.5V version was further off. It was enough that it wouldn't let me do a MAP sensor calibration. I hooked my vacuum gauge up to the MAP sensor and when I pump it down it all matches, so I believe the MAP reading is accurate.

IMG_7485-e1709694400495.jpeg

I reinstalled my piston stop and double confirmed my TDC marking is correct.

I've attached 5 more trigger logs. I switched trigger2 between Rising and Falling to see if that would make any difference.

Trigger Scope - 2024-03-5 9;16;31 pm trigger5 rising.llgx Trigger Scope - 2024-03-5 9;15;49 pm trigger4 falling.llgx Trigger Scope - 2024-03-5 9;15;15 pm trigger3 falling.llgx Trigger Scope - 2024-03-5 9;13;57 pm trigger2 falling.llgx Trigger Scope - 2024-03-5 9;12;59 pm trigger1.llgx

Latest tune:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qqKgCamkiNo7lV1rKo_M58vOJPo7blW8/view?usp=drive_link

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Still interested in a diagnosis on the triggers.

I think my MAP issue was just the thing running so rich that I was down a cylinder or two and the extra throttle required to keep it running was dropping the MAP. I got that straightened out, you can hear where the 6th cylinder finally joins in and it revs clean for the first time:

 

Next up is VVT. I was able to calibrate and have tooth counts and offsets for all of my cams. After some digging around, I assumed that the target for the inlet position should be positive to advance it and the target for the exhaust should be negative to retard in. I set my inlet advance tooth tolerance to 70 deg, retard tolerance to 0, exhaust advance to 0, exhaust retard to -70deg. In looking at my tune again, for some reason I still have negative values in the inlet target table, so that may be why I never saw any angle changes on those channels.

I set my base duty cycle at 40%, which may or may not be correct. From the factory tune I was able to pull a feed forward duty cycle table. For a desired phasing rate of 0 deg/s and at operating temp I guesstimated about 40%. Maybe 50% would be a safer bet?

image.png.493271841b23212e0b83b43244d72274.png

 

From my log, I see the exhaust cam duty cycles jumping back and forth from 0 to 100% and the cam angle steps from 0 to -70 degrees with a Tooth Tolerance/CAM Signal Error.

I picked my PID parameters based on a couple base tunes for other engines, maybe I need to pull those waaaay back so I can see what it's actually trying to do.

Latest log:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VuFxpntUiS2G_-Cd9eVvNilgDD5V1YDA/view?usp=sharing

Tune:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uBFR3lPPqtcR7k4hVpH-D17ytNKuTErY/view?usp=sharing

Very interested in everyone's thoughts on the trigger issue and VVT as well.

Thanks!

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I happen to have access to another 2.7 vehicle, so I went out and trended some parameters:

forscanss1.png

Here's what I'm noticing. Base DC (lines 3 and 4) is 0%. When the ECU calls for VVT angle (lines 1 and 2) duty cycle jumps up and then holds.

Exhaust angles are described as positive and intake angles are described as negative. What are the odds that the nomenclature is different for this engine?

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Okay, big step forward. I plumbed up the coolant system so I could run it for more than a minute a day.

IMG_7503.jpeg

The key was changing the aux active state to Low for all four output channels. After that I redid the cam calibration and the engine started perfectly idling at 600rpm, it was nearly silent. I think with active High it was defaulting to all of the way advanced/retarded which is why it sounded like a ghost cam tune.

I didn't have time to dial in the PID but I can see it actually trying to work now.

Latest tune:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qqKgCamkiNo7lV1rKo_M58vOJPo7blW8/view?usp=sharing

Log:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WL95rkQ-tZhLatSavl8NHwllVnvRO37K/view?usp=sharing

Still curious on those trigger logs. I'm wondering if the active state would be trying to throw off cam position while cranking, or if it would have no effect due to startup lockout. 

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Yeah with the aux active state wrong the cam had possibly moved during cranking and given us an incorrect trigger scope that I based my cam window on.  

So can you do us a new cranking trigger scope with the cam actuator unplugged for at least the trigger 2 cam and I will take another look.

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Sorry, was out on spring break last week so I didn't redo the trigger log yet.

I did spend some time on startup and idle parameters, and I worked on the VVT PID which looks pretty good now, I replicated the factory behavior of 0% base duty cycle. I did some rough tuning to the fuel and ignition tables and it revs fairly well now (I fixed that off-idle stumble after recording the video). When it starts it does it fairly easily like in this video. If it's not going to start, it just cranks and cranks.

The oil pressure control solenoid works, I'm able to adjust the duty to that solenoid and manipulate oil pressure.

I tried playing with the boost control solenoid but I can't get anything to happen. I swear I was able to buzz the solenoid when I first wired everything up, but I'm getting no response now, even though I'm measuring 12V at the solenoid plug and I can see the state change on the output channel when I go into test mode. I've ordered another solenoid in case I smoked this one somehow.

I have turbo drain lines pulled off to repair some pinholes, so I'll have to get those resealed before I can crank it over for new trigger logs.

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Messing with temp sensor calibrations. Maybe I'm doing this wrong...

Dipped the sensor in a pot of near-boiling water and compared that to my meat thermometer. Recorded temperatures vs. input voltage as the water cooled from boiling. Gradually added ice cubes until I got down to freezing. There's definitely error possible due to the update rate of the meat thermometer, but I was hoping the general recorded curve would reveal a common calibration curve.

Once I had the temp vs. input voltage, I back-calculated the sensor resistance by R_sensor = (V_in * R_bias) / (V_ref - V_in).

For some reason I thought the 10kohm bias was better on the ECT and 1kohm worked on the IAT.

I graphed them with a logarithmic y-axis and added a trendline with the lowest polynomial that gave me the best R^2 value.

image.png.7fe87a3b6a5fd02663c156f2eb7e9411.png

image.png.34d16f5c1a7315fc19a237a72d8b54af.png

ECT looks maybe similar to the Std Bosch NTC.

IAT is from the combo MAP/IAT sensor and I'm not sure if it's close to a known standard.

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Does a specific sensor or calibration require a specific pullup value? 

I set ECT to Falcon CHT and IAT to Std Bosch. My garage thermostat says 60degF and my meat thermometer says 58.7degF. ECT is reading 58 w/ 10kohm and IAT is 63 w/ 1kohm.

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The pull-up will affect the resolution.  For example if you have a sensor with a resistance of 100000ohm and a pull-up of 1000ohm then you are going to see a very small voltage change for a change in resistance.  

So the general idea is to use a pull-up value that gives the largest voltage change in the range of temperatures that are most important for your application.  

10K for the ECT and 1K for the IAT would be the best choices in this case.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got my new oil drain tubes from Aeroflow, will take some more fab work to get those installed. In the meantime it's spring and everything else in the garage wants attention, so I haven't gotten to them yet.

Any opinions on Deatschwerks injectors? I think these should be good for over 500hp on E85 at 85% DC.

https://deatschwerks.com/collections/injectors/products/16u-00-0090-6

dw-inj.png

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