wheelbarra Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Hiya i cant for the life of me get the e throttle to work with my extreme g4+ (bf falcon 6 and pedal) in setup mode it seems to work fine, switch it to on and it does nothing at all. I have had some errors come up in the event log. Pin 30 - fused power from battery Pin 87 - to the aux 9/10 14v Pin 85 - aux output e throttle (ai7) Pin 86 - from main relay The ethrottle relay is wired as follows: ECU Fault Code 82: TP(Main) NOT selected - E-Throttle 1 ECU Fault Code 73: Aux 9/10 Supply Error ECU Fault Code 70: E-Throttle Min %DC Limit ive attached some logs and the tune. Any help is greatly appreciated as this is all very new to me! bb.llg cc.llg dd.llg ee.llg toon.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 I think you must have a large air leak. In your logs your throttle is wound hard shut against the mechanical stops, the idle ignition is retarding the timing right back to 3deg, yet it is still idling at 1400RPM. With that much retard and a closed throttle the engine shouldn't even be able to run, so there must be air coming from somewhere else other than the throttle for that to happen. For reference I pulled out a log from our old barra test car and at similar temperatures that needed 3.5% throttle with 10deg advance to idle at 750RPM. The reason for the E-throttle fault is the ECU is pushing full power into the motor trying to get it to close the last 0.1%, but it is sitting against the mechanical stop, if the motor DC sits at the min DC for more than 2 sec (from memory) and sees no movement then the ecu assumes the throttle is jammed and activates safety mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelbarra Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 yep the blade was in the throttle body 180 degrees out and the throttle stop needed adjusting. Once I recalibrated the aps & tps it was all good. Thanks for your help there. Next issue tho! Once i touch the pedal it will hang on to that rpm for a second but hen it will rev up and down a few times until it goes back to idle. Do you have any ideas about that? log and tune attached aaa.llg toon.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 It still appears like you have an air leak. Your throttle should be around 2-5% open for normal warm idle, yours is still sitting hard at 0% and the RPM is still way too high. The oscillation is from the RPM creeping above the RPM lockout so idle control is disabled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelbarra Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 i changed the throttle body as that seemed to be causing a few issues. it seems to idle at around 950 now but i do know that the tps is still reading .5% or something. When i tapped the throttle it sat at 2000ish rpm long after i took my foot off. i have checked everywhere 3 or 4 times with brake cleaner looking for a vac leak and havent found anything and i have any vac hoses (besides fpr & map) blocked off as well. bbb.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 It still needs to be more closed than it should be. Did you try clamping off the brake booster and PCV hoses (if you have them)? Change the idle ign table axis and cells to match the one below will help a little. You should also set the whole top row of your E-throttle target table to 0 and your idle base position table will want much smaller values in it ~0.5% at the warm end and maybe 2% at the cold end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelbarra Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 thanks for your help, its much much happier. Now i can start to get the tune in the ballpark. ffff.llg toon.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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