lesgrandepotato Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 I’m having a bit of fun with my g13b install in my samurai. It’s the g13b from a Suzuki swift so quite different to the stock Sami… I’ve got the injectors and ignition wired and working. The swift gti reluctor was a very odd shape so I’ve mounted a 36 - 1 wheel to it and machined the dizzy to mount the reluctor. I’m getting single via the scope but no engine rpm’s or sparks under cranking. If I only have a cam sensor, does it need to be on the crank sensor input? It seems that whichever I connect it to I’m seeing a trace on input 2. im some what thrown by this! All ideas welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesgrandepotato Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 And the problem was…. the bloke doing the test… right next job get a better alignment to get more than 0.1v out the sensor and we could be in business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 Are you saying you have a 36-1 wheel inside the distributor? I suspect the teeth will be too small to ever generate acceptable voltage at cranking speeds. Even the Toyota and honda's with 24T are often borderline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesgrandepotato Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 That is indeed what I’m saying! I’m new to this so what you are saying is quite possible. I’ve got a 55mm diameter 36-1 wheel in there mounted on the old 12t wheel using the same adapter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 Yeah I think you might struggle to make that work. What does the original wheel look like? There seem to be about 10 different options for the G13 and some are not supported, but often you could make it into something compatible by grinding some of the extra teeth off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesgrandepotato Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 6 minutes ago, Adamw said: Yeah I think you might struggle to make that work. What does the original wheel look like? There seem to be about 10 different options for the G13 and some are not supported, but often you could make it into something compatible by grinding some of the extra teeth off. It was 12tooth for a g13b / g13k I ground the extra teeth back to return to 4 tooth. This left me with the problem of not knowing where in the firing sequence I am. Hence the 36-1 missing tooth wheel… I hoped that would give me a clear index for the engine Original and new wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesgrandepotato Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 Have had a play and got a better alignment. Spot on. It’s not producing the goods in terms of voltage. Ive ordered a 55mm 12-1 wheel. That makes the teeth about broadly 4times as large compared to the 36-1 My physics is pretty rusty but I think it’s gonna be inverse law. So perhaps we’ll get 4-16 times as much juice… we’ll stick a scope on it and see what happens later this week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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