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Factory MAP sensor maxed out


Jarrod Power

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I'm looking at replacing factory MAP sensor, and I'm thinking for future tunability I'd put a 5 BAR one in it's place. I'd like to ask about the resolution of the Link MAP sensors. If I only run 1.3 Bar in the short term will the 5bar one lack resolution? Am I better of using off a 2.5 bar one and replace it when/if I rebuild and decide to run more boost later on?

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All MAP sensors are completely analog which effectively means they have infinite resolution.  It is the ECU that causes a loss of resolution.  The analog MAP signal is converted to a number inside the ECU.  If the ECU has a 8 bit analog to digital converter (ADC) then a 0-5V signal is converted to a number between 0 and 255 (old Link ECU's).  If the ECU has a 10 bit (G2/G3 ecu's)  ADC then a 0-5V signal is converted to a number between 0 and 1023.  Having a more precise ADC is wasted as noise on the signal causes the extra resolution to be wasted.   Also MAP sensors are rated as absolute, so a 2.5 Bar sensor is good for 1.5 bar (14.7 psi) of boost.  1 Bar = 100 kPa.  Ok, so here are the resolutions of a few MAP sensors on certain ECU's:

  • 2.5 (14.7 psi boost) Bar MAP Sensor 8 bit ADC - approx 1 kPa.
  • 3.0 (29.4 psi boost) Bar MAP Sensor 8 bit ADC  - 0.85 kPa
  • 5.0 (58.8 psi boost) Bar MAP Sensor 8 bit ADC - approx 2.8 kPa.
  • 2.5 Bar MAP Sensor 10 bit ADC - approx 0.25 kPa.
  • 3.0 Bar MAP Sensor 10 bit ADC - approx 0.3 kPa.
  • 5.0 Bar MAP Sensor 10 bit ADC - approx 0.7 kPa.

As you can see, the best resolution comes from the highest precision ADC (such as used in G2/G3 ECU's) and the lowest range possible MAP sensor.  If you use a 5 Bar sensor on an old Link ECU which I don't think is even possible, you end up with a bad resolution of 2.8 kPa.

In short I can tell you from experience that you should go for the lowest value MAP sensor that will allow you to run enough boost...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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