12V, 5V - how steady should the supply V be?

[marches]

Good day!  This car is equipped with a StormX, RHD ITB's controlling a flat 6.  Attached is an 11 second log taken with ECU powered up without engine running.  Log display is scaled to show variation, how much variation is normal?

Since installation, we have struggled with TPS noise.  Started with generic BMW TPS, switching to OEM TPS cleaned up the signal a bit, but it still fluctuates so much it impacts channels downstream: CLL, Accel, etc.  Once we ran separate power and ground leads for both TPS and MAP from ECU to skip any other sensors imparting noise and still cannot seem to quiet TPS.  Have I missed something?  In the process of making sure signal path is clean, ground path from battery - to ECU and engine bay have been polished.  Does anyone have any hot tips on conditioning TPS (and/or MAP) output?  Maybe a math channel to AVG the signal over a short time period?

TPS only log screen cap below to illustrate noise.

Log and Tune here -> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gtL3go2bZVh1KD3eE-drBYKPPt2_WWUR?usp=sharing

[Adamw]

Yeah something very wrong here.  TPS delta would usually be less than 1%/100ms with the engine running steady state.  Your MAP delta doesnt look too out of the ordinary for an ITB engine, so I would say that is probably ok and wont cause you any tuning issues.   

A couple of thoughts for the TPS:

1. Unplug the MAP sensor and unplug/completely disconnect the lambda controller (including its 12V & gnd) and run the engine like that with just the TPS connected.  See if TPS noise improves with those two taken out of the equation.  My thought here is possibly if the MAP was wired wrong you could have MAP noise superimposed on the TPS signal - or if it is some "fake" sensor it could be doing anything to the 5V or Gnd.  I've had a fake denso coil sending 400V back into the ecu output every time there was a spark before so I wouldnt rule out anything...  The reason for disconnecting the lambda controller is the Innovate lambda controllers are a complete POS - there is no isolation between the high current PWM heater control and the analog output so the ground connection can add noise to all analog sensors if grounded to a point that has a path back to sensor ground.  
2. Backlash in TPS coupling - Check the TPS is a tight fit on the "D" shaft, this is especially important if the TPS is one that doesnt have the internal spring to soak up the lash.  If there is any doubt then put some RTV in the D before assembly and let it dry before running again.  I have "fixed" a couple of Nissan sensors this way that had noise due to a loose fit on the shaft. 
3. Vibration in the cable/linkage system - Im not familiar with the RHD kit, although from what I have seen Rama does make some nice throttles.  But assuming this is a 911 we are talking about then I imagine the linkage is a complicated contraption and I vaguely remember they have that horrible cable or rod down the the centre of the car that I think is pulling from a chassis mounted bracket instead of an engine mounted bracket like a more conventional cable system?  So potentially some vibration could be introduced into the throttle shafts via the linkages or any movement between engine and chassis?  Can you feel any vibration in the throttle shafts with the engine idling?  I have fitted a "bolt-on" Jenvey kit on a 911 before and I had to cut up most of the linkage, shift arms around, extend levers etc just to get full and equal movement on both sides so I know the linkage can be a bit of a challenge on these.
4. Alternator - disconnect the alternator and give it a short run, possibly AC from a bad diode or something could cause some noise in the electrical system somehow.     
5. The TPS itself - I have had trouble with noise from a generic-looking BMW sensor before - although it was a used sensor of unknown miles, and I have also seen large voltage drift with temperature and regular failures from the cheap looking vishay/colvern ones that many aftermarket throttles use.  So I always use the contactless ones on ITB race engines now.  I think in this case it is unlikely a sensor issue since you have tried 2 already, but if there is any doubt about either of the ones you have tried and all of the above suggestions dont lead anywhere, then I would try swapping to a variohm contactless one to rule that out.

[marches]

Plenty of food for thought here, thanks Adamw!!

[marches]

In the end, it was the wonky vishay/colvern TPS.  Installed a hall effect sensor and now have no noise.  Thanks again, Adamw!!