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Toyota 2TG 2.0L Turbo


Chesmari

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Hello Everybody,

First time using a Link. I'm reaching out to see if anyone can help me sort this out. 

  • 60-2 Trigger Wheel w/ Honda Reluctor
  • Hall Effect Cam sensor
  • Toyota Yaris COP
  • Honda TPS
  • GM IAT
  • GM ECT
  • 750cc High Impedance Injectors
  • Volvo IAC Valve
  • AEM Wideband
  • Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
  • Electric Radiator fan

Everything has been checked, tested and calibrated. Turned the engine and no spark. What am I missing?

Any comments, solutions and assistance is truly appreciated.

 

Ryan

 

 

2tg 60-2.JPG

2tg cam sync.JPG

Trigger Scope - 2024-05-31 8;09;20 pm.llgx Toyota Corolla 2T-GTEU.pclx

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Ok, two initial problems:

  1. The trigger scope shows no signal at all on trig 1, but looking at the AN Volt 1 voltage I suspect that is probably just because you have clicked the capture button before cranking rather than during cranking, so try that again, make sure you only click capture when the engine is turning.  
  2. The cam sensor is showing 2.2V in the scope, it should be either close to either 0V or 3.7V, so 2.2V suggests the sensor is pinned wrong.  

What is the cam sensor off?

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The crank sensor is wired wrong polarity, swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug.  

There is still an issue with the cam sensor - in the 8:59 trigger scope the cam sensor voltage is still 2.2V so I assume that was before you changed the cam sensor wiring.  In the 2:30 scope the cam sensor voltage sits at 0.2V the whole time but also the crank sensor waveform looks a bit messed up so I think the pinout is still wrong.

The pic below seems to match the FSM we have, is this how yours is wired?

fhjFsSJ.png 

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Ok, your crank signal now looks good and your voltage on trig 2 is more like what I expect - but the cam sensor is still not showing any "tooth".  

Is your "chopper disc" steel/magnetic?  

According to the note on the drawing above you should have a low voltage when there is no metal in front of the sensor and a high voltage when there is metal in front of the sensor (this actually opposite of how most similar sensors work so it might be wrong).  But to help diagnose, you can use the trigger scope just like a voltmeter without the engine turning.  If you pull your cam sensor off (but leave it plugged in) then do a scope capture you should see either ~3.5V or ~0V on trig 2 in the scope.  Then if you place a piece of metal in between the magnet and sensor then do another scope capture you should see the opposite high/low voltage.

  

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  • 4 weeks later...

You've got some noise on trigger 1 in places that crosses the threshold and zero so generates "teeth" that shouldn't be there.  This noise was less apparent in your earlier scopes.  The noise gets worse in patches where the cranking RPM dips the most (compression stroke).  From this observation I would lean towards something like a bad ground or possibly something like the starter motor brushes arcing or similar.  

Your scope suggests it is only cranking at 70-120RPM, whereas 200-250RPM would be more typical so I would start by investigating why that cranking speed is so low.  Batt voltage, starter wiring, poor ground, worn starter etc.  

image.thumb.png.bc7674040d846961ba765ff0b384e50f.png

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