team claymore Posted July 5 Report Share Posted July 5 can someone please look at this trigger scope and tell me what it should be looking like as this looks wrong. its a 24 minus 1 and on a 30 det (25 head) I came out to start the cart 1 week b4 an event and wont start, getting some small pops and i did have 1 random backfire through exhaust. literally 3 days ago car was running fine. its a brand new trigger and all i have done since is play around play with engine protection settings. Trigger Scope - 2024-07-6 9;03;40 am.llgx .pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 6 Author Report Share Posted July 6 Update... i have checked against my old trigger scope and they look nothing alike. i haven't changed any trigger settings, i have check continuity to ecu for trigger 1 & ground. I am getting a trigg1 err counter so maybe a faulty sensor? Again seems really odd that only 3 days ago it fired up fine. Time is not on my side as i have to get this thing running in a few days to get wheel alignment sorted etc. If i need a new trigger and anyone has 1 in stock im in melbourne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 6 Report Share Posted July 6 That scope just shows a stationary engine. You need to click the capture button when you are cranking the engine, not before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 6 Author Report Share Posted July 6 (edited) does this work? Trigger Scope - no start.llgx I keep getting trigg 1 errors, i have adjusted the yelshi trigger spacing to get it about .8mm gap but this is the best i have been able to get the scope to look. Here is resistance of sensor. I have also tried running a new wire to pin 51 for trigg 1. Trigger Scope - no start with trigg err longer crank.llgx .pclx Edited July 7 by team claymore Updated information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 Both of those most recent scopes show the engine stopping part way through the scope, keep cranking it until the scope shows up in the window. Can you also take a PC Log of an attempted start please, I can see that your Trigger Offset is set to 0 which implies that you haven't configured timing on this new setup with a timing light which would definitely cause it to not start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 7 Author Report Share Posted July 7 I am holding captue after I hit crank and not letting go until I stop. Is this the correct way? I will do a a pc log also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 7 Report Share Posted July 7 Just click capture when it is cranking, dont hold. Keep cranking for a few seconds after you click capture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 her are some logs trigger scope pressing capture after crank.llgx Pc log no start trigg 1 err.llgx I have just changed offset back to 90 also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 Your trigger voltage is a little lower than ideal but the ecu is happy with it in the log and scope. Reducing the airgap a little further will give you a bit more margin for error when cranking with a flat battery etc, but its likely not going to prevent it from starting. Your main issue I would say is you have the MAP limit set to 69kpa, so you have a 100% fuel cut all the time. I would probably turn the oil pressure limiter off for now also, as that looks like it is likely to interfere with its ability to idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 Ok thank you, could you show me where/how to change that map limit and what value to. The oil pressure was to try setup so I have some kind of protection in place. Is there a better way of doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 OK adam its running now but i have this fp speed aux 2 alternating between inactive & active? pc log with fp speed light coming on and off.llgx also my idle is all over the place and then gets stuck at 2200rpm PC Datalog - rpm hunting & getting stuck high idle.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 3 hours ago, team claymore said: but i have this fp speed aux 2 alternating between inactive & active? That is normal, the fuel pump is set to change to high speed mode at about 1500RPM. 3 hours ago, team claymore said: also my idle is all over the place and then gets stuck at 2200rpm It just needs tuning now. I would first calibrate your pedal sensor again as that is showing 1% all the time in your log, so that is going to disable idle control if it drifts any further. Then change all the bits in green below as a better starting point for idle control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 Now that I have changed rpm to above 10psi, why is it that it would cause a fuel cut? Is it because the ecu reads in psia not psig? Or vice versa. If you want the engine limited to lets say 25psi boost pressure do I need to account for this and ad 14psi on top or can I leave it at 25psi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted July 8 Report Share Posted July 8 1 hour ago, team claymore said: Now that I have changed rpm to above 10psi, why is it that it would cause a fuel cut? Is it because the ecu reads in psia not psig? Or vice versa. If you want the engine limited to lets say 25psi boost pressure do I need to account for this and ad 14psi on top or can I leave it at 25psi? The ECU MAP Limit values are absolute (MAP = manifold Absolute Pressure) and so the values need to be atmospheric plus gauge boost pressure. team claymore 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 9 Author Report Share Posted July 9 Every thing is much better now, all i need to correct is the revs holding on, what can i do to fix this issue? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DChZwcxAx7JEA9hLiHYNe2dYR9giX5Q-/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 10 Report Share Posted July 10 Your idle base position needs tuning, you need to adjust the base position values to match the actual position required to achieve the target idle speed. An example from your log below, at 51°C ECT, the closed loop idle system has moved the idle position to 2.6% (cyan number) to achieve the target RPM, but your base position is 3.7% (white number). For correct operation you need to enter the 2.6% value into the 50°C cell of your base position table. Typically you would log idle from a cold start all the way to fully warmed up to get the correct base position numbers for each temperature. The dashpot settings will play a part as well, but I wouldnt mess with those until the rest of it is tuned. Oh, also your idle ignition looks much less active than I would normally expect, double check you have the proportional gain set to 1.0 like my pic above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team claymore Posted July 10 Author Report Share Posted July 10 Thanks Adam, I'm certain I had changed it to 1.0 like you suggested. If I have then should I increase it and to what value, Is there a way to work out where it needs to be? I will amend the base idle table Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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