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4age 20 valve CAS wiring


Alex1436215396
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Hi, I've just finished wiring up my G4 and tried cranking over the engine, it looks like I'm getting no signal from the CAS (the distributor on this engine) as in the tuning section of PCLink Trig1 Signal, Trig2 Signal, Trig1 error counter and RPM all are saying No or 0. I've wired it up with trigger 1 going to G1 (or pin 2 / red wire), trigger 2 going to G2 (or pin 3 / green) and grounded to G- (or pin 4 / white) and the NE (pin1 / black) is not attached. I have configured PCLink as follows: Trigger 1: Type: Reluctor Filtering: Level 2 Multi-Tooth Posn: Cam Tooth Count 24 Trigger 2: Type: Reluctor Filtering: Level 2 Sync Mode: Cam Level Engine is a toyota 4age 20 valve blacktop. Can anyone give me some help with this wiring please?

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Hi Alex.

1. Start with trying your filter levels on 'Level 1' unless you have the need later on when you are tuning it.

2. Sync mode should be set to 'CAM PULSE 1x'

According to the info I got from one of my Toyota's wiring wise, G- is the negative side of the reluctors, NE is the 24tooth crank trigger, G1 is the 4tooth trigger and G2 is cam pulse.  So if you have it set up as 24/1 you will need to use NE (crank or trig1), G2 (cam or trig2) and G- as your signal ground (goes to ground out on the ECU).

It looks like (by the info I have) you are running 4/1 meaning you may need to select 1 tooth/TDC trigger mode.  Just check inside your CAS to see that you actually are running 24 tooth by counting them up on the chopper wheel inside, as 4 tooth was an option on these with the earlier engines (GZE always ran 24 tooth).

Let me know how you get on.

Jurgen

 

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Hi Jurgen, thanks for your reply. I've now altered the wiring so that trigger 1 is hooked up to the NE wire and trigger 2 is attached to the G2 wire, this is making the trig signals and rpm counter work, haven't tried setting to cam pulse 1x yet as having a few mechanical issues with the engine.

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  • 4 weeks later...

There are a few varients with the 4A-GE style dizzies (apart from side/rear (flywheel) mounting of the Dizzy.

You have the 24 tooth lower (on the ones I have)

And 1, 2 or 4 teeth on the upper level.

On my engine, I originally had the 4 tooth variant and ground off 3 of the teeth, that was fine running outside the motor (driven by a electric drill) but inastalling it made it cease to function, I changed it for the 2nd dizzy I have here, this has 24T lower and 1T upper, and this one works fine on the running engine.

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