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KA24DE trigger 2 signal issues Link G2

Ian Seppanen

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Im back with a new problem.  I got the setup issues figured out, and got a base map set up on the ECU.  I put around 200 miles on the car breaking it in, and suddenly I began having this problem.

When the engine reaches full operating temperature, signal 2 begins to get flaky, and as everything in the engine bay heat soaks I lose the signal completely.

Once the engine is allowed to cool down, everything goes back to normal, and the car runs fine, until it heats up again.

The first time this happened, my wiring harness was still temporary.  Most butt connectors and the like.  Since I had gotten everything working I assumed that the cheesy wiring was not transmitting the signal.  I pulled the wiring harness out of the car and finalized everything.  Solder, heat shrink tubing, then wire loom, and tape to seal everything off.  I put it back in the car, and epic fail.  It still dies out once hot.  My trigger wires are shielded, and the only place they run alongside the wiring for the coil is at the firewall, and the foot to the ECU.

Is this an EMI issue?  Or should I start looking at problems with the Cam/Crank sensor built into the distributer?

Specs on the car are 1991 Nissan 240SX

KA24DE with factory ignition, and trigger setup.

Custom wire harness.

Thanks for your help guys.  I have a race in 3 weeks, so I would really like to get this sorted.

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Ok, I made a small amount of headway.

I tried bringing the engine up to operating temp.  With the engine idling, once a certain temp has been reached in the engine bay, the car begins to misfire badly as the trigger 2 signal begins to drop out.  If I pour cold water on the base of the distributer shaft, the signal comes back full strength, and the engine begins to idle normally.  It continues to idle normally until the dizzy comes back up to temp, then the cycle starts all over.  As soon as I cool the distributer down, the problem goes away.

Now the question is, am I getting EMI inside the distributer?  Is the opto/hall sensor just plain failing?

I know there are 2 sets of teeth on the Hall wheel.  4 slots evenly spaced, with one being wider, and 360 slots.  I cannot remember which of these would be trigger 2.

I have a spare distributer, but it is for an S14 and uses an internal coil, while mine is external.  I am going to see if I can rip the guts out of the spare and put them in the current unit.

Any isight from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi Ian,

I would suspect that the trig 2 sensor is faulty. Possibly the changing temperature is causing a dodgy connection in the sensor to expand and lose connection.

We have heard of these sensors failing before. Another thing to check would be the V+ and GND to the sensor, make sure you are not getting voltage drop.

Trigger 2 would be the one with 4 slots.



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