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Looking for help to set up a Idle tune


Tinytank
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Hey everyone, I"m just doing the final touches on the car and I'm looking for someone to help me set up an IDLE tune for my Wrx which is using Link G4+..

Here is my mod list. ANY help would be appreciated. I will be attemping to idle on 94 octane to start then switching to E85

Engine:
This is a hybrid motor 
2.5L bottom end
-2011+ crank
-King bearings
-Carrillo H beam rods with arp 625
-JE RR pistons

Ej207 v8 head
-Stock valve train
-1/2" head studs
-New timing belt and components

Fuel system:
-Full blown dual fuel pump hanger
-Twin walbro 450 e85 pumps & Radium Venturi pump
-8an feed/6an return**nylon braided**
-Only purple IAG rails in Canada(8an)
-Id2000CC
-Full blown fuel filter(10an with 8an reducers)
-Full blown fuel pressure regulator(10an with 8an reducers)
-All full blown purple and black AN fittings
-Link ecu Flex fuel sensor

Induction system
Compound turbo set up
-High pressure-Borg warner S300 66mm with a .91 ar twin scroll set up(running 66mm PTE wastegate)
-Low pressure- Borg warner S400 80mm with a 1.36 ar twin scroll set up(running a 46mm tial)
-Stock N/A short runner pleinum
-Composite TGV deletes
-75mm Wilson Throttle body
-garrett front mount intercooler rated for 112Lbs/MIN with 3" charging pipe
-4" exhaust pipe
-Synapse BOV

Drivetrain
-Full Sti conversion 5x114.3 hubs, r180 rear diff. 6 speed transmission
-Exedy twin disc clutch kit(FM0022HD)
-Magnus launch controller(steel braided lines on clutch system)
-Cusco transmission mounts
-Aluminati solid motor mounts

Brake system
-Full ABS system deleted
-Brembo brakes front and rear
-Stoptech rotors and pads
-Goodridge braided brake lines in wheel wells
-Chase bay brake line kit installed with new proportional valve(all lines tucked and hidden from bay)

Suspenion
-Zeal v1 coil overs
-White line bushings on de powered steering rack(manual steering)
-white line end links and other misc bushings under the car

Cooling
-All Hvac system deleted
-Water pump ports welded shut
-Water pipe(on top of motor) hvac port welded shut
-Coolant passage on rear passenger head plugged
-Mishimoto radiator
-Mishimoto rad fans and shrouding
-Mishimoto coolant hoses

Tuning
-Link Ecu G4+ PNP tuning system
-Link ecu 5 bar map sensor
-Link ecu Air intake temp sensor
-Link ecu ethanol sensor
-Link ecu can bus(ecu has its own wideband)
-Oil pressure and fuel pressure logged

Exterior
-Car is wrapped(at home by us so it has flaws but hard to notice them) KPMF iridescent matte black/purple
- Seibon hood,scoop and trunk.
-XXR 527 18x9.5" rims running 275/35r18 dunlop drz 101
-Flares(un known brand)
-Front lip and splitters(un known brand)

Interior
-Kirkey racing seats*41700*(17" wide)
-5 point cypher harnesses(sfi approved)
-4 point roll cage
-AEM digital boost,A/F,Oil pressure and Fuel pressure, Coolant temp 
-Autometer digital oil temp and EGT
-Zeitronix Ethanol content sensor
-Shaved dash,
-All HVAC is removed
-Touch screen deck
-Rear interior is removed.

Misc
-IAG avcs braided oil lines
-Turbowerx oil scavenge pump with 10an return line from turbos
-Stock throttle cable shortened
-ALL emissions deleted.
-Fuel tank was dropped and stripped off all purge systems in it.
-C02 FMIC sprayer kit.

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Normally idle is the last thing you tune.  You will need most of the other tables in the ecu fully tuned before you will be able to achieve a reasonable idle.

The general method is to set idle to open loop mode and just adjust the whole base position table up or down until the valve is open enough to keep it running.  Then tune all other tables, then go back and tune idle last.

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