Adturb Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Just to add that I've had a re-pinning session and moved the tacho to Aux 5. All working as it should, thank you again. Need to tweak the duty cycle and a few other odd un-related bits, but it's there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 On 7/21/2017 at 5:43 PM, Adamw said: Your cam trigger in the second triggerscope will be good. Notice the falling edge on trigger 2 is reasonably well centered between two falling edges on trig 1. So set both trig 1 & 2 to falling edge and you will be golden. Is this absolutely necessary as I don't see this phisically working out for trig2 to be exactly centered when I adjust the intake cam gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 If you are using a crank trigger with evenly spaced teeth - then yes, the cam edge will have to be reasonably well centered between two crank edges. If you get too close to an edge then with valve train resonance and cam belt stretch etc the edges can cross and you ign timing will instantly change by one whole crank tooth. If you make your crank wheel into a missing tooth pattern then the position of the cam tooth doesnt matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P Posted October 28, 2019 Report Share Posted October 28, 2019 On 7/21/2017 at 5:43 PM, Adamw said: On a 12 tooth crank trigger that would advance/retard ignition by 30 degrees? But then I could compensate with the timing corrections like when setting it for the first time? I'm trying to understand this perfectly because I have adjustable cam gears, which I'll be tweaking occasionally, so I must adjust my cam angle sensor every time? OR would just checking with a timing light be sufficient, and if it didn't move from previous, then call it good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 The problem is without some sort of scope capture you arent going to know how close your edges are to crossing over each other. If you have a G4+ ecu with a built in scope then just do a trigger scope after you adjust the cam and check how it looks. If the cam edge is getting close to the crank edge then it could usually be solved just by changing one of the rising/falling settings. If you dont have a scope and want to be able to adjust the cam freely the the best option would be as I mentioned earlier - remove 1 tooth from the crank to make it a 12-1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 On 10/25/2019 at 4:13 PM, Adamw said: If you are using a crank trigger with evenly spaced teeth - then yes, the cam edge will have to be reasonably well centered between two crank edges. If you get too close to an edge then with valve train resonance and cam belt stretch etc the edges can cross and you ign timing will instantly change by one whole crank tooth. If you make your crank wheel into a missing tooth pattern then the position of the cam tooth doesnt matter. Looking at the help file it seems that a missing tooth setup still requires this plus more (not within 30 degrees of next tooth after missing tooth) Are the instructions wrong? I need to decide if I should shave off a tooth off my 12 tooth wheel within the next week but if it's still requiring this sync business then I won't mess with it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 Yes, that is an old help file that was in error. Current one below. The only important factor with a missing tooth wheel is the cam edge is no where close to the missing tooth gap. Dan P 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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