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Link G1 on a 4age20v BT needs a 4 tooth pickup. 24 tooth pick up needs modifying.


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Some things I have learned about early link ecu's and 4age 20v engines. When cranking the engine, if the Link says the rpm is several thousand you are trying to run with a 24 tooth distributor and it will not run. If it does, it will be so rich that there will be fuel dripping out the tail pipe and it will endlessly flood. Here is the modification you need to do if you want to run a early Link ecu on a 4age 20v. 20 teeth need to be removed leaving 4 at north south east and west. To work out which ones to leave set the engine at tdc (top dead centre) #1 with the rotor aimed at the lug in the distributor cap of spark plug lead #1. Then leave the first tooth that has just gone past the top sensor and paint it white. That is the north tooth so to speak. Because it runs a distributor cap the lower sensors do not need to be connected to the link 2nd lower trigger. These are only needed for multicoil setups. When you start the engine and put a timing light on it use the hand controller and enable the zero'd out base timing mode. Set the distributor rotation so that the timing mark reads zero degrees before tdc. This matches the actual distributor timing and link ecu timing. Don't forget to disable the mode you just enabled. Now the ignition timing is set from the table chart in the link. Hope you have enjoyed the read.


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Just to clarify so as to not confuse anyone.  We made 2 subboards for the 4age, one for the early 16V which had 4 tooth CAS, and one for the later 16V and 20V with the 24 tooth CAS.

So if you are using an ECU on the engine it was originally sold for then it will work fine without any modification.  You only need to do the above modification if you are using an ecu with the early 1 tooth/TDC sub board with a later engine.

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