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Suzuki g16b crank trigger set up


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There is a model of G13b that came with a crank angle sensor with attached to the lower timing belt pulley, you then buy and oil pump (which the sensor attaches too) then need a sump off a G16b with a cutout to suit and it should all bolt up. It uses a 36-2-2-2 which is that same as an EJ20 from memory. This is the setup we are going for on our G16a and then just making a blanking plate for where the distributor used to be.

suzuki 1.jpg


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  • 5 years later...

Hi, thought i'd continue on this thread instead of creating a new topic.

I am trying to use the g16b as a bit of a practice run for learning how to wire up and tune, in the meantime i am planning a k20 swap, this will take some time and im happy to tinker around with the g16b. I am hoping to not need to fit a crank angle sensor, this is a bit of money and effort i'd prefer not to spend. Is it possible to run the fury g4x solely off the cam angle sensor? 

I believe this is the sensor inside the distributor, which is the same as some lancers https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/suzuki-se416-vitara-crank-angle-sensor-1.6ltr-g16b?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0bWvBhBjEiwAtEsoWzbL9W7lLx-ZeFtbZP90aVn4cLN4olsXDMM4wYu3k_l0UEfHw63TwRoCkR0QAvD_BwE

the distributor itself is this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133884192448?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3D9cf1fe01f0af4604ab4d35cefdfbe760%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145386100807%26itm%3D133884192448%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V4WithDefaultIMAFeature&_trksid=p4429486.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A1338841924489cf1fe01f0af4604ab4d35cefdfbe760|enc%3AAQAIAAABALHyIAEaemKG0mx4REjf%2BHyi2kzcINSWjmv491TDyjbVmYwevKj0ejii%2FeyFe06fKt3mY6NW6Sp2iAtyB8I%2BtS4eUvfJ45k50567ZDqO0%2BKRXtXLQp8jNgH6cp4dTxk%2Fxm70FxyBL6YGIFutY5y%2Bjz4P%2B4OCmUWVrSuU8InCRyA9dK%2BdVBlwiRYWbrEaki3MnnCxEtHrtMQc9G3S0AhxvvZi0QCJJHSbpfQs1OV61D6tcupyfoUA4S%2BUgJpBNE2c8ai1R33wEbspSFwYddPNfWxcWr6G7TUvRhdBhTX9MqqwPpGc0M68Kq5gk3jEpkcXvmMCG6LkK%2BETO8klJWKgFE8%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A4429486&itmmeta=01HRP16Z1DRAQZBHVD9C2RF2SG


I'm still trying to figure out which pins I'd need to connect to as well.

thanks in advance for your help.


WhatsApp Image 2024-03-11 at 17.34.45_8fce7bb9.jpg

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The important bit of info for whether the trigger is suitable is the "tooth" pattern on the chopper disc or slotted wheel inside the distributor.  So, attach a picture of this.  

Your wiring diagram is for a 4 pin distributor with a separate coil and separate ignitor, the 7 pin distributor in your pic has an internal ignitor and coil, so the wiring diagram is irrelevant to that.    

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Yes, sorry after i added the image i forgot to mention that this was similar but the closest i was able to find.

here's a photo of the trigger wheel, i have a feeling it's a little underwhelming. 



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3 hours ago, DanSJ80 said:

one tooth is shorter. I intend to run coil packs when connecting the g4x to the g16b.

It may work with the Ford TFI trigger mode.  The TFI mode expects 3 teeth that are 50% duty and 1 that is 35%.  Yours look shorter than that so it may not work.  

Otherwise, one edge will be evenly spaced so you could use multi-tooth mode with the correct edge, that alone will only allow distributor ignition and batch fire injection though.  To do sequential/direct spark it would need a separate cam/sync sensor.  

There may be other distributor triggers that are more suitable, suzuki seems to use a huge range of different trigger patterns and we dont currently support them all.

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I pulled the wheel back out and properly measured it. If this pattern is no good, I could get some shapes laser cut through work and press them into shape. 

I've also scored a crank timing pulley with trigger teeth from a baleno, I'll see if i can find a way to fit either an inductive or hall effect sensor without replacing the oil pump housing.

Really appreciate your help thank you.

trigger folded.png

trigger flat.png

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2 hours ago, DanSJ80 said:

I could get some shapes laser cut through work and press them into shape. 

Your existing 30/35deg pattern wont work for anything but distributor Ignition.  If you had capability to make something then 12-1 would be my suggestion.  It could be turned out of solid or pressed/folded.  You could make the "teeth" much smaller to avoid the need for them to be curved OD if it made folding easier.  4mm or so wide would be fine.  


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