Bogga Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Has anyone got the correct crank trigger set up for what I believe to be a g16b CAS. There is no sensor on the crank only rear of cam with the 11 tooth gear. Pic attached. Thanks in advance for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeners Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 There is a model of G13b that came with a crank angle sensor with attached to the lower timing belt pulley, you then buy and oil pump (which the sensor attaches too) then need a sump off a G16b with a cutout to suit and it should all bolt up. It uses a 36-2-2-2 which is that same as an EJ20 from memory. This is the setup we are going for on our G16a and then just making a blanking plate for where the distributor used to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Can you attach a picture of the actual CAS on your engine. Also, if it is twin cam does it also have another sensor on the other cam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 Hi, thought i'd continue on this thread instead of creating a new topic. I am trying to use the g16b as a bit of a practice run for learning how to wire up and tune, in the meantime i am planning a k20 swap, this will take some time and im happy to tinker around with the g16b. I am hoping to not need to fit a crank angle sensor, this is a bit of money and effort i'd prefer not to spend. Is it possible to run the fury g4x solely off the cam angle sensor? I believe this is the sensor inside the distributor, which is the same as some lancers https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/suzuki-se416-vitara-crank-angle-sensor-1.6ltr-g16b?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0bWvBhBjEiwAtEsoWzbL9W7lLx-ZeFtbZP90aVn4cLN4olsXDMM4wYu3k_l0UEfHw63TwRoCkR0QAvD_BwE the distributor itself is this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133884192448?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3D9cf1fe01f0af4604ab4d35cefdfbe760%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D145386100807%26itm%3D133884192448%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V4WithDefaultIMAFeature&_trksid=p4429486.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A1338841924489cf1fe01f0af4604ab4d35cefdfbe760|enc%3AAQAIAAABALHyIAEaemKG0mx4REjf%2BHyi2kzcINSWjmv491TDyjbVmYwevKj0ejii%2FeyFe06fKt3mY6NW6Sp2iAtyB8I%2BtS4eUvfJ45k50567ZDqO0%2BKRXtXLQp8jNgH6cp4dTxk%2Fxm70FxyBL6YGIFutY5y%2Bjz4P%2B4OCmUWVrSuU8InCRyA9dK%2BdVBlwiRYWbrEaki3MnnCxEtHrtMQc9G3S0AhxvvZi0QCJJHSbpfQs1OV61D6tcupyfoUA4S%2BUgJpBNE2c8ai1R33wEbspSFwYddPNfWxcWr6G7TUvRhdBhTX9MqqwPpGc0M68Kq5gk3jEpkcXvmMCG6LkK%2BETO8klJWKgFE8%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A4429486&itmmeta=01HRP16Z1DRAQZBHVD9C2RF2SG I'm still trying to figure out which pins I'd need to connect to as well. thanks in advance for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 The important bit of info for whether the trigger is suitable is the "tooth" pattern on the chopper disc or slotted wheel inside the distributor. So, attach a picture of this. Your wiring diagram is for a 4 pin distributor with a separate coil and separate ignitor, the 7 pin distributor in your pic has an internal ignitor and coil, so the wiring diagram is irrelevant to that. DanSJ80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 Yes, sorry after i added the image i forgot to mention that this was similar but the closest i was able to find. here's a photo of the trigger wheel, i have a feeling it's a little underwhelming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 Sensor Gnd 12V Sensor supply Trigger 1 Ignitor Gnd Ign 1 Tacho 12V coil supply. Are the teeth on the chopper disc all the same size? It looks like 2 might be shorter but maybe an optical illusion. DanSJ80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 absolute legend how did you find that. one tooth is shorter. I intend to run coil packs when connecting the g4x to the g16b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 3 hours ago, DanSJ80 said: one tooth is shorter. I intend to run coil packs when connecting the g4x to the g16b. It may work with the Ford TFI trigger mode. The TFI mode expects 3 teeth that are 50% duty and 1 that is 35%. Yours look shorter than that so it may not work. Otherwise, one edge will be evenly spaced so you could use multi-tooth mode with the correct edge, that alone will only allow distributor ignition and batch fire injection though. To do sequential/direct spark it would need a separate cam/sync sensor. There may be other distributor triggers that are more suitable, suzuki seems to use a huge range of different trigger patterns and we dont currently support them all. DanSJ80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted March 13 Report Share Posted March 13 I pulled the wheel back out and properly measured it. If this pattern is no good, I could get some shapes laser cut through work and press them into shape. I've also scored a crank timing pulley with trigger teeth from a baleno, I'll see if i can find a way to fit either an inductive or hall effect sensor without replacing the oil pump housing. Really appreciate your help thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 14 Report Share Posted March 14 2 hours ago, DanSJ80 said: I could get some shapes laser cut through work and press them into shape. Your existing 30/35deg pattern wont work for anything but distributor Ignition. If you had capability to make something then 12-1 would be my suggestion. It could be turned out of solid or pressed/folded. You could make the "teeth" much smaller to avoid the need for them to be curved OD if it made folding easier. 4mm or so wide would be fine. DanSJ80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted March 14 Report Share Posted March 14 yea I might actually turn that up, might be easier. awesome thank you, I can continue planning my harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted Thursday at 08:08 AM Report Share Posted Thursday at 08:08 AM So I've finally got things wired up and ignition on. I've got the k20 crank angle sensor on the front of the g16b with a 24-1 tooth disc i've made up for the crank angle sensor. I have trigger 2 wired into factory cam angle sensor with that 4 tooth wheel. I'm a bit unsure of what trigger setup to do. so far i've got: Trigger mode: multitooth missing rpm filtering: 1 trigger 1 type: hall trigger 1 pull up: on trig 1 edge: falling multi tooth position: crank tooth count: 24 missing teeth: 1 number of gaps: 1 sync tooth: 1 trigger 2 type: Hall trigger 2 pull up: on trig 2 edge: falling sync mode: this is where im unsure. if i used cam pulse 1x do i just chop off 3 teeth and have that one tooth? or do i use cam pulse window? if i understand that right, i try to line up a cam tooth before it see's a sensor, count how many teeth past the gap i've gone on the crank wheel, and then the window just needs to be long enough to cover the duration of the cam wheel? if thats correct how do i confirm its good once i start cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted yesterday at 01:33 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:33 AM So your 24-1 is mounted on the crank, not in the distributor as shown above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted yesterday at 01:39 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:39 AM yes i've made a 24-1 disc for the crank and kept the 4 tooth cam one as shown above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted yesterday at 01:55 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:55 AM Ok, 4 evenly spaced teeth on the cam is not suitable as a sync as there will be no detectable difference in pattern between the first crank rev and the second. The easiest option would be to remove 3 off the cam wheel and use cam pulse 1X sync mode. The more difficult option (with no advantage over the easy option) would be to remove 1 tooth off the cam wheel and use cam window sync mode, this would require more complicated initial setup though. DanSJ80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanSJ80 Posted yesterday at 02:09 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 02:09 AM Awesome thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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