Carfreek Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 Hello. Wiring a 1gzfe v12 toyota for a Storm ecu. Have seen other posts recommending trigger 1 crank, trigger 2 cam 1, cam 2 d1. The engine has 2 crank sensors, has anyone determined which is correct one to use yet? Also, vvti wiring guide says to use d1 for vvti also, does digital input # really matter? Tia for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 I didnt know there were 2 crank sensors but if they both point at the same wheel then either one will do fine. The cam that gets connected to a DI needs to be DI1-4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted March 10, 2019 Report Share Posted March 10, 2019 disclaimer: I havent done one of these, I just did some digging because it sounded interesting. The factory wiring runs 2x ecu's, 1 for each bank, so unless you are planning to run 2x link's in the same config, just pick 1 of the crank sensors and ignore the other. I've got no idea what the trigger patterns are and there isnt any predefined in the link configs so hopefully its something simple like 36-1 or maybe the same as a 1j/2j. I'm guessing these run VVTI only on the intake side, at which point pick either exhaust cam as your trigger 2, and as adam says, run your intake cams to anywhere DI1-4. you want to wire in both VVTI capable cams individually so that you can log/control each bank as its quite common for 1x bank to respond a little differently than the other and be a couple degrees apart in VVT advance. Depending on how far you are planning to go with the mods, and the year of your engine, you will also need to address the fact the factory intake manifolds are completely independent for bank 1 & 2 - ie 2x separate throttle plates, map sensors, etc. If you use a thunder instead of a storm you can run 2x ethrottles independently, but you'll need to have a crossover pipe installed somewhere to balance the MAP readings as you really dont want 1x bank running more air than the other. converting to cable throttles or using an older model would allow it to work on the storm but you'd have to pick 1x of the TPS sensors to read and just ignore the other. you'll need to run both injectors and spark in one of the batch type modes as you simply dont have 12x individual outputs for spark/fuel. The dual ecu's thing means you will probably also run into 2x coolant sensors, and a few other things, again just pick either 1 unless its something that the ecu directly depends on for spark angle/injection amount calculations. you may also find 4x knock sensors, but you'll only be able to wire at most 2 of them, so take 1x per bank. because of the wasted spark config you'll have to run, you wont get per cylinder knock detection anyway so you arent losing much by dropping the second knock sensor per bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carfreek Posted March 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thank you for the quick replies. Some quick notes-running batched injection with paired across the banks, ie, 1 and 2, 3 and 4, etc. Running wasted spark with stock groupings. Using cable operated tbs with just 1 tps. Using just 1 of 2 coolant temp sensors. Dual crank sensors are 180 apart. Exhaust cams are driven by intakes, so there are just 1 vvti solenoid and cam sensor per bank. Sensor wheel is a 36-2 from all published info. Several posts on this forum were very helpful. Worst case scenario is I will have a 180 out if i use the wrong cas, or polarity issues, and either are easily fixed by repinning connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted March 11, 2019 Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 you cant really be 180 out on the crank. part of the trigger1 calibration is to essentially to find the angle from TDC to the missing tooth on the crank. depending on which sensor you use the number you end up with for trigger1 calibration will be 180 different, but both will be finding you the same TDC point on the engine. Sensor polarity you might still run into and as you say, need to swap wiring over. The reason I say use the exhaust cam for trigger2 is that it wont move with VVT advance (assuming its a fixed cam) which makes setup a little easier. If you only have intake cam sensors, run one to trigger2 and the other to DI1-4. Make sure to configure the trigger2 VVT offset so that the ECU can "count backwards" to still work out accurate cam position even with VVT partially advanced on the Cam it is reading position off of. There is a test process in the setup guide for this. What you are finding is the resting position of the first trigger edge in degrees past TDC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carfreek Posted March 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thank you for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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