Jump to content

Aqmar

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Aqmar

  • Birthday 02/25/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Malaysia

Recent Profile Visitors

486 profile views

Aqmar's Achievements

  1. Hi anyone, Any idea what could cause for this issue? I hope is not the Lambda sensor issue as i just change it less that 10 months. I also have wired in capacitor according to the manual that suggest as an option.
  2. Hi, I am somewhat confused about my AFR reading. I run 2 Link CAN Lambda sensors on Bank 1 and Bank 2 of my 2GRFE engine. I have set the overrun fuel cut as ON. If my understanding is correct, all six injectors should shut off when the overrun fuel cut features are active, thus giving a lean reading of 10.1 Lambda. However, I realize that is not the situation here: As the picture I snip from my logging parameter shows, the maximum reading of a Lambda 2 that it could reach when the overrun fuel cut is active is only 7.238 lambda. How can this be possible? Should it be the same reading as Lambda 1? I have attached my logging file and my base map to the Google link here. FYI, both CAN Lambda are powered by my PMU16 with a dedicated Auxiliary output. The sensors are less than 12 months old. Is there anything that I have been doing wrong? Please advise https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/112kzIW_uwVswZu9lPP4d3guHKp7YAUvY?usp=drive_link
  3. Hi @av8, I am having the same issue, but not as frequently. I don't want to create a new thread, as I also face the same error code. So, have you managed to come to any solution to your issue?
  4. Out of curiosity, why does the Pin#3 (M) not connected? what actually the function of this pin? How about the connection to the PMU/PDM for this kind of alternator?
  5. Hi @Adamw, Sorry for the confusion. I have double-checked the alternator from my side. The 2GR-FE engine in my MR2 now was from Right Hand Drive (RHD) Toyota Alphard. The Alternator is rated 130amp. I have gathered the wiring diagram. The original wiring schematic for just the charging system taken from the manual consists of several pages. Therefore, for ease of reference for everyone reading here, I have combined it into one page and pasted the picture of the relevant connector on the same page. Based on this wiring diagram attached herewith, what I understand here is as follows: Pin 1: RLO Pin 2: Ignition Pin 3: M (not sure what this means; does it just report to the ECU the electrical load, like what u explained above?) Pin 4: Light at the dash Am I right? So, based on this diagram, how can we wire it to the Link G4x xTreme and PMU16? And how could I then proceed in the PC Link to control the alternator charging? Alphard 2GRFE Alternator Wiring Diagram.pdf
  6. Hi Admin, Maybe this is a noob question. But how do we wire a 4 pin Denso Alternator (OEM) from a 2GR-FE engine so that we can utilize the Alternator control features offered by G4x? i am using Link G4x Xtreme with PDM (PMU16) and AiM MXG dash. I realize the new G4x has Alternator control features. What happens now, my alternator is only charging its bare minimum. Its' only charging around 13.3-13.4v at operating temperature. As the Toyota 2GR-FE wiring diagram attached here, the alternator is connected to the OEM ECU so it can regulate the charging. Based on my observation, Toyota set it by having the alternator to up its charging to around 14v- 14.3v especially during cruising. During idle is around 13.8v-13.9v, and when sudden accelerate from static or above certain rpm it doesn't charge to have the engine runs more fuel efficient. I believe the pin for the 4-pin connector based on the Toyota wiring diagram are as follows. Pin 1 : Battery (through 7.5amp fuse) Pin 2: Light at the dash Pin 3: ECU Pin 4: Ignition. With the AiM Dash i no longer have the Lamp/LED at the dash. Should i wire it as below?: Pin 1 : Output pin from PMU16 (15amp output) Pin 2: ?? Pin 3: Aux Link G4x (PWM) Pin 4: Ignition Please correct me if i'm wrong. I know somewhere here in the forum has discuss about the ViPEC capability of managing the 2GR alternator (as the link shared below) but i'm not clear on the wiring and the G4x now has dedicated alternator control features. Appreciate the advice and assistant here. I believe this will be very helpful to the community as well 2GR Alternator wiring.pdf
  7. Aqmar

    2GR Knock Setup

    @Adamw Thank you for pointing that out. You are absolutely right. It was the wiring of the ground and signal. Now that has been sorted out, and I have gotten a knock reading with only a gain of 2! @Hodgdon Extreme, based on your calculation, my resonance is 6kHz. I don't understand the objectives of having the 2nd order of resonance. How can I use that as a reference? However, guys, I have taken a log of the reading using three freq channels; 6kHz, 7kHz and 12kHz. How can I determine which is the right frequency to use based on this data log? Are that ways to determine the right frequency to use without using the standalone Knock sensor audio? I have reduced the gain for cylinders #3 and #4 because, based on my data loggings, I observed that these two cylinders read above average from the rest of the cylinders. Maybe due to the location of the OEM knock sensor being nearer to these two cylinders. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-UpC2wb30mQfnsu7yySIzLzRyKJJoB-T?usp=sharing
  8. Thanks @Adamw and @Vaughan, I have done some fine setting based on the base map you shared. I just wonder on the duplicate CAN Lambda that you mention. The reason I set it 2 stream because I have 2 CAN Lambda dedicated for each bank. Based from the help file that i read as though the 2nd ID should be 951 Anyway..the engine runs well now. all 3 devices communicated well. 2GR MR2 ver 9.1.pclx
  9. This is one of the interesting parts of my setup for my MR2. I have installed Link G4x Xtreme, 8 Button CAN Keypad, 2 CAN Lambda, PMU16 and MXG dash. On my initial setup, all components listed above communicated well but with a not-so-neat stream of CANMessages (I created multiple channel broadcasts from each component). I try to improve the communication between all these components and try to write the CAN Messages with a single channel but with multiple frames in 1 stream. I plan to have Link and PMU16 broadcast their CAN through the CAN2 in their single channel. The PMU16 is sending a multiplexed frame of CANbus in 1 channel, and same goes for the LinkG4x. After a few attempts, I manage to get the MXG Dash to communicate well with the PMU16. However, I failed to get the Link ECU to read the CANBus message from the PMU16. Especially when it comes to receiving the CAN Keypad via PMU16 streams, I have tried to play around with it but still can't get it right. I am no expert in CANBus, but these features should be utilised to ensure that all components can work effectively. What am I missing here? I attached here the files from the Link G4x Xtreme, PMU16 and MXG Dash. Any assistance and discussion to improve this CAN stream will be very much appreciated. LINK_MR2 2GR_@20210301_024601_004305.xc1 2GR MR2 ver 9.pclx MR2 2GR Ver9.pmu
  10. Thanks, Adam for the advice. I have tried my best to follow the advice given. I even went to the extent of cleaning the 2GR Throttle Body. The connection seems fine. Just to share here, I also tried increasing the TPS error value to 20%. It was set to 0% before this: Been driving for more than a month now, and thankfully no Fault code 76 has happened so far. I can say so far is so good. But I do take note of the Throttle Body to wear n tear. So I will try to keep one on standby when in need.
  11. Aqmar

    2GR Knock Setup

    Thanks, Adam, How interesting. The wiring seems fine. Maybe I am reading it wrongly. So I set the ignition timing conservatively and ran at 3 different channels: - 6kHz, 8kHz and 12 kHz. To ensure reduce any variables, the gain is set at 5. I drove the car but didn't push it above 4000rpm. From my own perspective, I don't see much difference in the reading between all the 3 different channels. I know the best way to determine the knock is by using the KnockBlock kit. Unfortunately, I don't have one around now and will need to get it then. Therefore, before I proceed to use the KnockBlock, is there anyways I can at least determine the right frequency for the 2GR engine? Here are the logs reading based on 3 frequencies. Is this how the data should read? https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-UpC2wb30mQfnsu7yySIzLzRyKJJoB-T?usp=sharing
  12. Aqmar

    2GR Knock Setup

    I am having a challenge to determine the right frequency channel. I am with the 2GRFE engine using the Toyota original knock sensor on each bank. Everything is stock standard. I have to say that I am still a novice in doing this. Experimenting things slowly. Based on the bore calculation, I should be selecting a 6kHz Narrow Band. Under the 6 kHz, with a gain channel of 20, I don't seem to get any knock detection. I increase the gain channel to 50, and it gets sensitive. Am I doing it the right way? Anyone here willing to share their experience determining the right setup for the 2GR knocks sensing? below is my data log for the knock setup
  13. Ohh, gosh @Adamw, thanks for pointing it out. I was thinking of having a MAP limit when the ECT is low, but now I realize it was silly to control such a thing when I already have rpm limit to handle that. Thanks!
  14. Sorry, I don't quite get what do u mean by full return of the fuel tables. Are you referring to the Fuel System type? For my setup, I rely on my Fuel Pressure Sensor. The engine can start and run at operating temperature but not when it is cold
  15. Hi, Appreciate the guidance here. I have got my car running smoothly with the Traditional Fuel Mode. However, I want to utilize the various sensor I have installed to support the Fuel Equation Mode. I want to have my car run at a better precision, as that is what I understand the Fuel Equation Mode could offer. When I set up my Fuel Equation Mode, the 2GR engine got no problem to starts when it was at operating temperature (above 80°C). However, when I tried to start the engine below the operating temperature (30°C - 70°C), it just couldn't start. The engine can crank, but it doesn't kick to run the engine. I don't think this is due to Trigger Offset or the timing. I have tried to adjust the Pre Crank Prime or the Pre Crank Enrichment, but it wouldn't do.. What am I missing here? I didn't make much changes to my ignition timing as I understand the Fuel Mode only effects the fuel delivery. Sorry if this matter has been discussed before; I have tried looking into the forum but couldn't find about this topic. Below is the link to access the file. There are 2 base maps for comparison. (Traditional vs Modelled) and the Log File so we can have a better analysis of what really the problems are. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xbpB16a7xE8XYHNd9Q8Z4CFu41Ow-TaO?usp=sharing
×
×
  • Create New...