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Posts posted by Adamw

  1. 4 hours ago, Beers13_sr20det said:

    Ok so update i manage to set it spot on at -87 deg off set when cranking only.

    if idle set to -90 but the rpms are higher than normal idle at 1200 rpm.

    It is important to do it at at least idle so the crankshaft speed is stable.  


    4 hours ago, Beers13_sr20det said:

    still not managed to get it to stay consistent over rev range.

    Is it a small amount of drift over the RPM range or is it bouncing around?  The ignition delay setting will only account for a small drift that is linear with RPM.  If you are seeing the timing bouncing around especially at higher RPM then that is probably just typical Nissan CAS scatter and not much you can do about it apart from change to a crank trigger.

  2. 5 hours ago, Adam_Rostron said:

    The first drama I had is that Link uses decimal and subaru can system is hex... so a quick google conversion got me up and running.

    Just FYI, CAN is binary - there are just 1's and 0's going down the wires.  It is the GUI of your device that is converting it to Hex.  Most CAN sniffers have settings to display the data and ID's in different formats.

  3. From the help file:




    Yes, you can do the speed sensor the same way.  Also, for the trigger wiring it is fine to have the +12V in the same 3 core shielded cable.  It is just drawn this way as the Link looms only have 2 core shielded cable for the triggers.

  4. It doesn’t sound like a timing problem to me but I still suggest you check it again once running and don’t use the loop, many timing lights fire on the wrong dwell edge if connected to the loop. Use a short plug lead between the coil and spark plug and clamp timing light onto that.

    your problem sounds more like either ISC or idle ignition control is not coming out of lockout due the tune being off.

  5. All good ideas, but my feeling is they won’t help.  If the ecu has dectected the missing teeth in the wrong place then it doesn’t know where tdc is.  So no matter what you do with ignition trims or tables it is still going to be firing at the wrong time.  The cranking trigger scope looks just as bad on these things whether the spark is enabled or not.

  6. If the timing is actually following what you are commanding it do and it is stable when locked then it doesn’t sound like you have a trigger issue at all.  What makes you think there is a trigger issue?  Can you post a log and trigger scope?

  7. It will be best if you send an email to tech@linkecu.com.  The ecu seems to have trouble reliably detecting the missing tooth when cranking on these engines.  I know it was on the todo list for the engineers to investigate when I was there but the more people that report the issue the higher the priority it will get.

  8. With the engine running, hit F12 to open the runtimes screen, go the the "ECU Status" tab, have a look at Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 error, that should give you some idea where the problem is.  Also, make sure no analog inputs are assigned to Lambda 1 too.

  9. Note that cam sensor is never going to work with the cam sprocket you have.  You can see how it spikes upwards (start of cam tooth) , then about 360deg later it spikes downwards (end of cam tooth), this is because its got a "long" tooth on the cam for a hall sensor but you have fitted a VR sensor.  A VR sensor will only work with a short/sharp tooth.  You will need to fit a hall sensor to the cam.

    They are easy to tell apart, the VR sensor has a little nipple that pokes out the end whereas the hall sensor has a flat end.  They also have opposite connectors.  Im pretty sure the part number for the hall is 12141740959 or 12141748400, but double check those yourself.

    For now to get you going you could just set trigger 2 sync mode to "off", it will still run sequential but it wont always start up.  If it doesnt start just stop cranking for a couple of seconds and try again.  It should sync on the correct phase approx 50% of start up attempts, for the other 50% it just wont start.

    Also, make sure trigger 1 is set to falling edge - since it has that weird extra rising edge in the middle of the missing tooth gap.


  10. First of all, do you actually have the dash working with the default configs?  I dont want to waste a lot of time chasing my tail to find out your wiring is bad etc.


    16 hours ago, George GEP said:

    id like to see all analog inputs and digital inputs on dash

    For analog inputs, all of them except APS are in the stand stream.  Do you really need pedal position on the dash?  For the DI's the 2 wheel speeds are in the default stream, the other two will need a custom stream.


    16 hours ago, George GEP said:

    as well as aux..

    Which aux?  I see no point in sending the injector relay, VVT solenoid, purge valve, fan, Ethrottle etc?


    16 hours ago, George GEP said:

    also how can i wire and see fuel level on dash? 

    Wire it direct to the dash.


  11. Yes, I have seen a few guys run the stock flywheel without trouble.  That note in the manual is many years old and no one really remembers what the problem was for that note to be added.

    Can you attach a trigger scope.

  12. 9 hours ago, boomtheroom said:

    So for easy installation I can use a Haltech Can hub ,plug directly into my link plug and play G4+Ecu and then used haltech CAN devices?

    The Haltech CAN hub is just a dumb device used to connect the branches together.  Basically the same functionality as one of these special hub devices:



    So, yes you can use it to connect any CAN devices to the CAN bus, but you will still need to program the ECU to understand the Haltech devices language.  Last time I checked they wouldnt give it out.  So I suggest you stick to the CAN devices that are covered in the help file (you can still use the CAN hub though).


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