Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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There should be no dependence on the dash being present. The only 2 connections to the dash are tacho from ecu to dash, and speed signal from dash to ecu. Neither should cause a misfire.
I would suggest doing a short PC log with the engine running and unplug the dash so we can see what else changes in the ecu when you do that.
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The map doesnt match the log so its a bit hard to tell without the correct data.
Your VE is mostly exaggerated around idle and cruise, at WOT it is possibly a little high, but not far off normal. So that would usually be deadtime related as deadtime error has a larger effect when PW is shorter.
Some other things to fix:
- Injector deadtime table has MAP on the Y axis, it likely should be differential fuel pressure.
- Fuel system type is set to FP Sensor, but there is no fuel pressure sensor assigned.
- Many multifuel settings are wrong, fuel properties, injector flow rate, lambda target 2, multifuel blend ratio table.
- IAT fuel trim should be disabled for modelled mode.
- Accel fuel sense table is referencing TPS, it should generally be RPM as you need less enrichment at higher RPM.
- Under power you have a large variation in lambda between banks. Lambda 2 is much leaner than lambda 1.
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The trigger scope shows the crank wheel is not 36-1. The scope hasnt captured two cam revolutions so its a bit hard to tell confidently what it has, but it looks almost like it does still have 36 teeth, but just none missing? I guess it could be 60-2, but the compression pulses look like they are roughly 18teeth apart which suggests it is more like 36 teeth.
Is the trigger wheel on the front of the engine or internal?
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Confirm if that is the issue first. Will need to do a bit more digging to suggest the best solution. For example if the fuel pump is still supplied by the ignition switch it would probably be best to change the fuel pump supply which will take a lot of load off that circuit - But that may already done for all I know.
So at this stage Im still trying to confirm if your issue is on the triggering side of the ECCS relay or on the high power side or something like a ground issue.
1 hour ago, greddy32 said:Also would running all ecu grounds directly to a batt(-) stud help at all?
I dont remember what the grounding scheme is like on the GTR but generally older Nissans main ground point is on the engine as some devices including the CAS and ignitor ground through their body/mounting. Changing to batt -ve wouldnt be recommended if this is the case.
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You would just need to change the tooth count setting to 12 and the missing teeth setting to 1, then re-set base timing.
Why would you change from the 36-2 though?
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Pin 45 is from the ignition switch, it should show close to battery voltage whenever the ignition switch is on. If it drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay will drop out. Note on a BNR32 this wire also supplies the fuel pump, oxy probes, idle valve, AC relay, boost valve & EGT sensor, so it is a fairly overloaded circuit, not uncommon to see low voltage on it as the ignition switch wears and all the connections along the way get more resistance with age.
21 hours ago, greddy32 said:It doesn't show any voltage on 45 while cranking or ever for that matter. 1 lead on 49 the other on 45 while testing
Should be measuring between ground and 45.
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You've got antilag and cyclic idle active all the time so I would be leaning towards that before seeing the log. Gearshift control and launch have some pretty odd settings also, so I would turn those off for now.
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Ok, please give us a short PC log of it cranking and also do a trigger scope capture while cranking.
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I would leave the E-throttle feedforward at zero for now, zero works ok for most. Your oscillation problem looks like too much proportional gain. Drop that to 5.5 or 6.0 to see if it settles down.
Your ethanol sensor DI needs to be changed to rising active edge.
All your multifuel settings are wrong, including lambda target 2, fuel properties, injector size, etc.
IAT fuel trim should be turned off.
VVT needs to have the cam angle test calibration run.
Do you still have the original problem with the tacho/dash/fans not working? This suggests the CAN bus is not working.
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No, I dont think you have got it yet - but I dont blame you when there are popular videos like this floating around. I dont claim to be a rotary expert myself, but there is so much wrong in that video that I can only roll my eyes.
The Link uses E-shaft degrees and it appears he is also talking in E-shaft degrees. But why the hell he is saying at 28:10 (same as "position F" in the schematic above) is 460degs is beyond me. If the E-shaft lobe is pointing to 9o'clock then this is 540BTDC. 460BTDC would have the lobe pointing to about 11:40o'clock.
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What ignition coil(s) does it have, many of the duratec coils dont have built-in amplifiers so will need an external one.
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8 hours ago, RexSR20 said:
I swear that in the trigger offset menu I cant negative values, anyways with the timing light it marks the degrees that are on the table, I will try, thanks
There is 720deg in a 4 stroke engine cycle. The offset can be anywhere between -360 and +360.
Because the crankshaft does 2 revolutions in an engine cycle, the timing light will show "correct timing" regardless of if you are sparking at TDC on the exhaust stroke or TDC on the compression stroke. However then engine will only run if the spark is near TDC compression stroke.
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It sounds like your ECU is powering up ok initially but dropping out when cranking. This suggests the FET is ok. What is the voltage on pin 45 when cranking?
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So is the tacho connected to Q26 or to the ignitor? If connected to Q26 has the tacho output been assigned in the software?
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My thought was the display may stay alive down to say 3V but the processing side may dropout before then.
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Since the error is at peak torque, this could quite likely be related to ignition noise. Is it using the stock ignition system? Resistor spark plugs?
The other common cause of trigger issues on evos is the cam sensors are quite prone to failure since they get a lot of heat from the turbo and the water outlet right next to it.
Cant really tell which of those is more likely in this case, but generally if the error only happens at high boost then it is ignition system noise, if it only happens at high RPM when hot regardless of boost, then more likely the sensor.
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It could only be a wiring issue, the brake switch isn't even connected to the ECU so the ecu has no idea you are pressing the pedal. It sounds more like the CAN bus is being interrupted, but I would start by confirming you have 12V at the back of the gauge with the pedal both up and down.
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Your lambda setup looks correct, I changed the gauge setup a little.
Have you programmed the 2nd AEM O2 to use ID2? Have you programmed the CAN gauge to use 500Kbit?
current viper map, scav pump on, ethanol sensor on WMP1200cc CAN changes.pclx
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There is a "TDC" every 360degs, so 400BTDC is effectively the same as 40BTDC.
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Provided you have both a crank and cam sensor, you could wire injectors in pairs like below, set injection mode to sequential. This will give you what we call semi-sequential. The injection events will then be more correctly timed with valve events, just 1 injector in the pair will fire 45deg earlier than ideal and 1 injector will fire 45deg later than ideal. But still better than multipoint group mode where the injection events arent timed with valve events at all.
Inj1 drive to Cyl 1 & 5.
Inj2 drive to Cyl 7 & 2.
Inj3 drive to Cyl 6 & 3.
Inj4 drive to Cyl 4 & 8.
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With the CAS aligned in the factory position as per the service manual, the trigger offset would usually be around -90 to -100deg.
288 probably means you are sparking at TDC exhaust stroke.
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I think the cruise PID is just a bit too aggressive. You can see below how noisy TPS delta gets when cruise is active, even at the fixed speed, then where you change the set speed you see the big spikes in both directions. Basically the throttle is fighting every tiny deviation in speed. That over-excited TPS is also constantly triggering accel enrichment so you are probably burning more fuel than it should be too.
Try halving your existing cruise proportional gain. I think Integral and derivate probably are ok but please set the "PID setup" to cruise control before the next log so we have some better data.
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The attached will be a reasonable starting point. Enter your injector settings, correct engine size, check base timing and all sensor calibrations.
Ford Duratec 2.3 no spark HELP!!
in G4x
Posted
How come the picture has HT leads to the spark plugs? Were the coils changed later?
Can you give us a picture of the trigger wheel.