Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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You probably need to state what features your are looking for...
For instance if you just want to display ECU data then there are many low cost options like Gaugeart or an android device with the Torque app. If you want more advanced features like predictive lap times etc then it might be Plex or AiM. If you want good logging capability and Data analysis software then Motec would be the choice.
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Tnf, both these sensors should work fine spliced directly to link AN volt input without any extra pull-up. The fact that the gauge uses a pull up to 3.6v does not matter you will just not be taking advantage of the full 5v resolution.
this type of connection is done all the time for sharing gauges and piggy back ecu installs.
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Check out gaugeart.com, they do a CAN to video adaptor that works with G4+. You will need their vga to composite adapter also if your lcd doesn't have vga. I don't think you will be able to use torque via obd2 and gaugeart at the same time however since they probably use different streams.
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Sam,
Do you have a log you can share? Its hard for anyone to guess without some data.
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Are you sure it really is lean and its not just a misfire that is making your wideband read lean?
Two further things to check:
Factory ballast resistor pack is still attached/connected (it needs to be).
Injectors are receiving full 13-14V on the live side.
If those two check out and it really is lean then it is most likely a fuel pressure issue as Rich has suggested.
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If you want knock control I would strongly suggest stretching the budget to a Storm. An Atom plus an extra standalone knock device then the extra wiring and tuning of two devices will work out about the same or higher cost as a storm with built in knock control. The integrated knock control functions would be hard to match by any standalone system.
For lambda my suggestion is to avoid innovate controllers (noisy analog, short sensor life) and preferably go for something that can communicate via CAN. Right now the AEM X-series would be my pick, although there has been a few hints on this forum that there might be something new from Link soon too.
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The schematic above is not complete enough to say with certainty but from what you have shown I would expect it to work ok provided the "blackbox" is programmed correctly and it behaves like a mechanical relay (i.e its outputs do truly go open circuit when off and its inputs aren't even weakly tied together or to anything else (pull ups etc)). It seems like the black box it is a fairly new product so there may be some odd bugs/behaviour that is not documented...
You havent shown the coils/ignition system in that schematic - how is this connected?
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If you still have the same problem with all aux's disconected (f/pump, fans, boost solenoid etc) then it must be something else odd with your injector or ignition supply. I suggest you post a schematic of how you have wired the main supply relay and associated connections to ecu, inj & ign. Even just scribble on paper and post a photo. That will make it quicker & easier for tech support to work out the problem.
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Note it's a holiday here in NZ today so link support won't reply today.
Most likely it is some device wired to one of the aux outputs that is back feeding - are they all wired per the pclink help? You could try pulling all aux out pins out of the ecu connector to confirm that
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Hi Nader,
I havent much experience with downshift but have tuned a few cars with seq upshift GC. You might find this document helpful in how to tune the GC function from logging: http://www.motec.com.au/filedownload.php/CTN0004 Gear Change Ignition Cut.pdf?docid=3437
I have found if you have a roller dyno with a reasonable amount of inertia (heavy rollers or a road simulation mode) you can tune GC quite well on dyno then just fine tune at the track.
If you had some logs that you can share I might be able to help
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Since both cams have been ground with the same profile, assuming they have been timed up correctly then it will be perfectly fine and absolutely no different to a more correctly assembled head.
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Also, you could use a frequency divider. Something like this would do it without breaking the bank and should still allow ABS to work (will need one for front and one for rear):
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Hey guys quick question. I'm looking for information on tuning without quick tune. My question is what maths does quick tune use adjust the injector pulse width. I would like to tune without quick tune. For example I want to take a 4th gear WOT log and adjust the injector pulse width according to my fuel targets based off what I see is actually happening in the log. I have a wide band and everything else I need to do what I need to do I just don't know the maths.
Thanks!
You know this function is already built in right? Look up help on "quick trim". Select the cell or range of cells in your fuel table that you want to adjust, then hit "M" key. This will bring up the quick trim dialog where you enter your measured or "logged" AFR, it then compares it to the target AFR (either taken from your target table or you can enter some different target) and adjusts the cell values to correct the difference.
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I just took a quick look over purely your TC settings. RPM lockout, TP low lockout and Speed lockout don't appear to be sensible values to me. I have never set up TC with a G4+ before so I'm stabbing in the dark a little but I would suggest starting with values around 2000RPM, 30%TP & 30Kph and tune from there.
Edit: sorry Scott, I see you must have posted as I was typing mine...
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Here's how I would attack this; I would set Trig 2 to "none". Set Fuel mode to "multipoint group". Set Ign mode to "wasted". Then at least that narrows down your diagnostics to only one of the triggers.
If you then still don't see RPM, then try swapping polarity on the VR sensor. If it still wont register RPM after these steps then you are probably going to have to get a scope on the crank trigger to see why it doesn't like it.
PS. also check ECU hold power is not active.
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I believe Evo 6 & later should be 13KHz narrow. Right now you have your ECU looking at 6KHz, from a sensor that only ouputs around 13KHz.
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Skiza,
I have a couple of cheaper devices you might be interested in. I have an old "The Knock Box" dual channel system. It's probably 15years old or more but it is still a very good device. I bought it direct from the manufacturer about 10 years ago as an ex-demo and they told me at that time that their current one still has all the same internals, just a different enclosure and connectors. This is still very good and my go-to tool but I want to upgrade to something that has an analog output that I can play with on my dyno. They don't have adjustable filters etc like some more modern stuff but I have never had any issue clearly detecting knock with it. I would want about 350NZD for this one with the aviation headphones, two knock sensors etc. New they are 900AUD.
I also have the first gen Link Knockblock - again dual channel and it has adjustable frequency filters. It came in a box of misc dyno parts I bought years ago, it appears unused but I have never tried it to tell you how good it is at detecting knock. 100NZD for this one. It has two knock sensors but no head phones included (has 3.5mm audio jack from memory).
I have used a Phormula before (note sure which model but the audio one) and I didn't find it much good. Certainly not as clear as my old knock box that I was used to anyhow, it didn't seem to have much, if any filtering.
PM me if you want to know more.
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I believe Blaine is talking about a water/methanol injection kit, like the AEM one. I saw a webinar the other day where the AEM controller has a setup like Blaine described. It basically means if you run out of water/meth mix or have a pump or plumbing issue the ECU would be able to reduce boost to protect the engine from detonation.
Oh yeah, reading it again you are probably right. You are obviously a better mind reader than me...
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Not an easy one to add to the thunder in its current format.
But will be a consideration for future development.
Since a 12 injector ecu may never be a big enough mover to justify a new hardware platform, another option might be firmware/software based solution that allows 2 ecus to be linked together in a master/slave configuration. 2 x Storms linked together would be a relatively cost effective option for those that need 16cyl sequential?
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I'm curious to hear what the logic is behind this request? I only have involvement with a couple of high powered methanol drag cars so don't have a large pool of experience to draw from but why would you expect a methanol fuel system to be any less reliable than a petrol system? Maybe the mechanical pump? If that is the case why not just use differential fuel pressure as a GP limit? Fuel flow sensors are relatively expensive and I think it is a variable that would be pretty difficult to nail down tight enough to make it useful as an effective safety. i.e, functions like RPM limit, gear cut, warm up corrections etc are all going to throw many more dimensions into the equation on what you need to consider to arrive at expected fuel flow.
I would have thought Lambda and dif fuel pressure would have been a better way to monitor the fuel system (although in my experience Lambda based safetys aren't particularly useful either it would be more consistent than fuel flow).
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I suspect you are 360° out. Try adding 360 to your trigger offset.
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I think the "stepper motor type" setting is meant to hide when an aux is assigned as ISC solenoid so maybe you have found a small bug. It seems to hide ok for me. In any case I think you can just ignore that setting and everything will still work fine.
Colour Dash Display
in G4+
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Provided you don't need an Odometer for legal reasons then any of those above would do what you asked. If you need an odometer then I think only Motec can do that.