Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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We really need to see your .pclr and a log, a screen shot does not give us much info. If you don't want to post your cal file publically then you can email it direct to Link support.
Are you on the latest firmware? There were some issues with CLL and CAN Lambda prior to 5.6.3
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When you say "correct reading", what information do you want to display? Normally in PC link a NB sensor is set up only to display voltage - since the only info the ecu needs to know from it is whether it is above or below the CLL dither voltage setpoint.
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post a copy of your calibration please.
Yes, and a log would be helpful too.
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Have you done the trigger calibration already?
If you can post a log of a start/cranking attempt that might give us some clues where your issue is.
Follow this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
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Guys regarding the ect and iat sensor i added the voltage but its reading same befor incorrectly can you clarify wich cal 1 & 2& 3 are for is cal 1 is the ect please help.
See the red arrows in picture below, this is how you set the sensor input to use Cal table one etc. Also did you already try the Honda calibrations (blue arrows)?
If you post your .pclr file and a log of a cold start I will take a look and see if I can improve it.
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Since it is described as a rate then Bigger number = faster to turn off.
If you can get a log of the problem and post it here we should be able to get to the bottom of it.
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I havent studied your log in great detail but it looks like your main issue is the post start enrichment table is filled with -100% so that is taking all your fuel out after cranking enrichment ends. Set post start enrichment to off for now.
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Both of these connections are duplicated on the other plug so you probably have their "mates" connected and you can ignore these unconnected pins. If you are not going to use these I would extract these pins/wires from the ecu plug so they dont act as antennas.
"Shield ground" would be connected to the screen/shield inside trigger (& sometimes knock sensor) wiring.
"Ground out" is the sensor ground. This would be used as the ground reference for any analog inputs.
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There are a few odd settings in your map but it would be much easier if you can give us a log file too. Can you do a PC log of a starting attempt and post it here. Follow video guide here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
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Under the link ecu idle settings, it only gives us 4 or 6 wire to choose from.
Your idle control is done by a solenoid - so you can ignore the "stepper motor type" setting.
As Brad mentioned earlier its most likely the RPM lock out thats preventing the idle control from working. I suggest you post a log of the engine idling and also a copy of your map so one of us here can take a look. Follow this video on how to do a PC log if you dont know your way around yet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
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I haven't thought this scenario through completely since I don't have much experience when a GCU is added into the mix, but under "gear shift control" couldn't you just assign a DI to "Down shift", set the shift start and end modes to DI, then use the "overrun downshift throttle trim"?
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Also, even if you find your injector current is within the allowable 5A, the other thing you need to be careful about with when driving peak/hold injectors with a "saturated" driver is the injector can overheat. I have never seen it myself but I have heard of cases where the injector coil insulation will basically melt and then it is a dead short on the injector driver. Then you have a good chance of frying the ECU...
So maybe you will continue to be lucky - maybe not. If it were mine I would be playing it safe and wiring the recommended way.
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That doesnt sound like a hall sensor. Most hall sensors have 3 wires and they are usually not shielded. Your description sounds more like it is a VR sensor. Perhaps give us a photo or part number.
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3e1b5b2ee6.png ... not working.
Are you sure, the diagram is showing on my phone ok. Maybe try refreshing you browser?
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Ok, for the power wiring I would suggest the scheme below. I'll take a look at the config later when I'm at a PC but I suspect the std thunder base map will work with this wiring.
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Are you intending to use DBW or stepper motor IAC in your application?
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Yes, notice they dont have any direct input connections on them? The input terminals come up from the base plate underneath that they bolt to. I dont know how they would use them on an RB - maybe there is some aftermarket base plate you can get for them without the electronics in it?
A brief search suggests you can actually modify the OEM DIS base plate to bypass the internal electronics but it looks like a pretty crude modification to me: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/customer/gm-dis/
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I dont think VN coils will work - I'm pretty sure they are the old GM "DIS" system? They bolt on to a special base that has all the DIS electronics inside.
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do i need single channel ignitor to coil then to dizzy?
Yes you definitely need an ignitor, can you confirm you have one?
is there a way 2 test trig outputs without a oliscope
There is a trigger scope built-in in PClink. If you have spark at the coil though that would suggest the ecu is seeing at least some of the trigger. Another quick check is to watch RPM in PClink when cranking, if it reads around 150-200RPM during cranking the trigger is probably ok.
The fact that you have spark going into the distributor and nothing coming out would suggest you have a rotor phasing problem. (i.e spark going into the distributor when the rotor is not pointing at a post) Provided the engine has run before and the distributor hasnt been moved then it is probably the trigger offset that is wrong rather than the distributor position. You could try adding increments of something like 20degs to the trigger offset until you get a spark coming out of a plug lead, once you have a spark coming out of a plug lead you can then put a timing light on it and set the trigger offset properly.
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I dont see much wrong in your log either. ECU seems to be doing everything it should, most sensors are giving realistic numbers and the trigger seems happy.
If you have a spark at the plugs then I would be starting to look at mechanical stuff now. Maybe cam belt has skipped some teeth etc. Start with a compression test.
A couple of things I noticed in your log that I will mention; battery voltage is low during cranking and cranking RPM is low. ~9.8V & ~145RPM. Normally that wouldnt be a problem but sometimes with fouled plugs etc you need better than that, maybe battery is getting low? The TPS stays at zero throughout your log - that might be just because you never touched the throttle or perhaps it isnt working. It wont hurt to double check this is working since your main fuel table is TP based.
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1st step, do a pc log of a cranking attempt. Follow this guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
Post the log file and a copy of your .pcl here
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Hi Beams,
When you say "same price as a Storm", which storm are you talking about - the new Black G4+ Storm, the old blue G4+ storm or the even older G4 storm?
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Hi Rory,
Glad to hear you are getting closer. I see something odd in your pictures above and I am curious if you have an explanation...
In your first post you have pics from a standalone scope, For trig 2, the first photo showed 15V then the 2nd photo shows 45V p2p, now the link trigger scope is only reporting about 2v p2p. What is causing the massive variation between these 3 measurements?
From the few visual clues we have (s/n ratio etc) I get the feeling the Link scope is reporting a more realistic value and there is something wrong with that original scope?
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- Where Do I attach the knock sensor? Can I attach the stock knock sensor as a digital input?
- Can I connect the fuel pump relay to Auxiliary 3?
- What about the other igniter wire which returns signal to my ecu to confirm firing?
- If I use a wide-band can I completely remove the stock narrow-band sensor?
- The Atom does not have knock control.
- You can connect the fuel pump relay to any spare aux out.
- Most aftermarket ecu's dont use the IGF feedback, don't connect this.
- Yes, remove the narrow band, the wideband can perform all of the same functions.
engine light no fault codes? new to link
in Link G4
Posted
Aux 5 is the output that controls your CE light. In your .pclr the Aux 5 is set up as a "GP Output" that switches on any time the engine RPM is above 5700RPM. So basically it is set up as a "shift light".
If you want to restore the check engine/fault code function to this light just change the Aux 5 output function to "CE Light".