Adamw
-
Posts
20,048 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1,278
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Adamw
-
-
I thought the idea of the missing tooth was to signal TDC,
Yes it is a reference to TDC, but it doesn't need to occur at TDC.
Or am I right in thinking that with a Link, the ecu just needs to see a signal gap (missing tooth). If the missing tooth is at 90 BTDC, does the ECU have a programmable offset because if i want my #1 spark plug to fire at TDC, and my signal is 90 degrees out then my firing time will be wrong.
You set your trigger offset in the software (calibrate trigger menu). This is the angular distance the crank must rotate from the first tooth after the gap to TDC. However you don't need to measure anything, just take a guess then crank it with a timing light on and adjust until the marks line up. More info in the help file and it will make more sense when you actually do it.
The standard engines that I usually work on have the TDC signal at TDC. I cant figure out why it is different with aftermarket ECU's.
I think you will find the vast majority of OEM triggers that use missing tooth wheels, the gap is never at TDC. Ford's favourite for instance is usually 90ATDC. There are many reasons, one I already mentioned is the crank acceleration near TDC, another is if your missing tooth is in an area where your ignition event must occur (say 0-45°BTDC) there is the possibility that it would be less accurately positioned since there is no tooth to reference.
-
On a 4 cylinder the ideal location for the missing teeth to pass the sensor is somewhere near 90° BTDC (or 90 ATDC is good too). In reality it will work pretty much anywhere with an engine like yours but the suggestion of 90 deg will give the most reliable detection under conditions when crankshaft speed variation is worst such as cranking when you have a flat battery. As the piston approaches TDC the crank "slows down" and that can make it more difficult to detect a missing tooth if it is near TDC.
If you are going to have a single sync tooth on the cam as well then the only rule for this one is you don't want it occurring at the same time as your missing tooth.
-
I didn't look at every gear change in the log but it appears for most of them you are lifting off the throttle so it is below the TP low lockout. For now you could put the TP lockout to zero for testing (FYI, normally in real life you would want this above about 70%). If you are sure you have tried to shift with the throttle open and it felt like it just wasn't going to let you then I would say try less "start shift validation time" and possibly lower the upshift force setting.
To get to the bottom of it I think you need to log more channels. Gear shift status, AN-6, % fuel cut, would be the main ones needed on top of what you have.
-
Actually, just looking closer at this, I reckon the 1UZFE example above taken from the help is incorrect. I just timed this out on a chart and there is no sense in the way it is shown. So I think they have the pairs correct but 3rd and 4th drivers are swapped around.
So for your LSX, with firing order 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3, I reckon do it like this;
Inj# 1 = Cyl 1&4
Inj# 2 = Cyl 8&3
Inj# 3 = Cyl 7&6
Inj# 4 = Cyl 2&5
-
24-1 will do nicely. Even 12-1 would work well.
-
Yes, choose sequential mode if your wiring is done like this.
-
Best option would either to be keep the 2 teeth
Two teeth on crank alone will not be enough for the engine to run (unless it is single coil with a distributer), since it will not know which tooth is cyl 1&4 and which is 2&3.
If you want to do direct ignition or wasted spark you will need to change either to a crank trigger wheel with missing teeth (would allow wasted spark) or you could stick with the two tooth wheel but you would need to add a single "sync" tooth to the camshaft or distributor (would allow seq or wasted spark).
-
What about wiring? I mean which injectors to pair for sequental mode? I assume, if firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3, then ijectors are wired same way: inj 1-8 to channel1 and so on
From the help file:
Your firing order is different but just follow the pattern. i.e Drive #1 goes to cyl 1 & 4, Drive#2 goes to cyl 8 & 3 etc.
-
for injection, group fire staged, right?
No, staged would be for when you have primary and secondary injectors.
For a V8 with a Atom you can use either "Multi-point Group" mode (4 injectors will be fired at a time) or "Sequential" mode (actually will be semi-sequential on a V8) which might work a little better. With Semi-sequential you have 2 injectors fired together - normally adjacent cylinders in the firing order so these can be timed better with valve opening etc.
-
-
So am I not right in thinking that because of the 0.140" hg spacer it will be running richer? I'm just thinking its got considerably less compression so it won't be as efficient?
No I dont expect the lower compression and less squish will make a big difference to idle and low load VE. The biggest effects will be the difference in capacities, the different valve timing and the different injectors. Tweak your master fuel a little more.
-
Checking that the timing is stable over a range of RPM is a quick and easy verification that VR polarity is correct. I just took a quick look over your map, it mostly appears to be a reasonable starting point. One suggestion however; set idle control to open loop for now. Closed loop takes a fair bit of work to get right and there is no point messing with it until most of the other tables are fully tuned.
-
I wouldnt expect the head gasket spacer to effect things too much at light loads and idle etc.
Have you done the trigger calibration already? With timing locked does the timing drift when you rev it? Do you have stock injectors?
-
LOL, just a few minor tweaks...
Too make that list a bit easier to decipher, here's a few of the bigger changes that I remember off the top of my head, in no real order;
- Traction control.
- Configurable CAN.
- Modelled fuel Equation.
- Much better logging.
- Trigger Scope.
- More Table allocations - much more flexibility with virtual Aux's etc.
- OBD2
- Internal knock control (cant remember if old G4 xtreme had this)
- DBW
So unless you can get an old G4 at an exceptional price then it would be a no brainer to go for the G4+ to most buyers. Of course there is still development on-going with the G4+ too so there is always the possibility of more new features being added.
-
Good news. That's a pretty odd problem you had there, I still cant quite work out how that relay would have had such an effect. I know a relay coil collapse would give a short sharp voltage spike but yours seems too long for that. Maybe it was effecting alternator control somehow too.
-
One thing to confirm is if the Atom can accept a CAN input, in the software it appears to be supported but I don't see CAN mentioned on the Atom web page anywhere.
The famous innovate E8 error is because they drive the sensor in a completely different way than it was ever designed to be. It seems to work ok for some people but the innovate system is very sensitive to heat and in my experience it seems sensitive to many other odd factors such as high exhaust gas velocities. I haven't used the new Link CAN one yet but I expect they will follow the more traditional Bosch recommended control techniques so you should have no drama with temperature anymore. If you really want to know you can google the Bosch "LSU 4.9 datasheet" and that specifies maximum temperature limits but normally something like 500mm from turbine exit will be fine. From memory the max continuous temp is 930°C.
-
Actually the coils probably don't like 20V either and something odd may be going on with the spark due to this...
-
Tony,
Something else I just noticed - You have a serious battery voltage issue. Bat volts goes above 20V when you rev it. That could be effecting the VVT solenoids...
-
Yes this is for 3SGE engine. When it starts knocking at low load, even if I pull the timing back by something like 15 degrees it still happens. Then other times it runs fine with way more timing.
I am very suspicious that this is not knock that you are experiencing. Either that or there is some other factor that is making your engine more prone to it - burning oil, intake temps, cam timing, or something like a burr or carbon deposit glowing in the chamber etc. I guess hot spark plugs could do it but for a basic engine like yours that's not working at WOT all day I wouldn't expect you need to move too far from a stock heat range. I haven't done a lot of NA road engines but based on the few I have played with I would expect with an engine like this on NZ 95 pump gas at say less than 30% throttle your MBT should be somewhere around 32-40°, and that would still be a fair margin away from where knock would initiate.
-
Loging AFR
in G4+
Did you try changing this setting:
Otherwise you could offset the Analog input calibration a little.
-
-
and feels like mis-firing on one bank.
I have been to another round of dyno test today, we have increased the fuelling but it seems that no matter how much fuel is added in the VVT activation zone, it is just showing lean AFR >21. We have no idea where all the fuel went?
Looking at those logs you definatly have a fuelling issue.
If your adding more fuel in the table and the AFR is staying constant on the WB then you need to check base line pressure under load. If it drops off theres either a restriction or the pump isnt up to the job.
From Tony4's comments I don't think I would be jumping to the conclusion that it is a fuel issue yet. If there is a misfire or even "poor combustion", a wideband will usually read full lean due to excess oxygen which appears to be what's happening in these logs. Injector pulse widths appear to be sensible in the problem area. I don't have much experience with VVT so cant be much more help but just wanted to say that the lean AFR is a symptom rather than the cause.
-
David,
Before I give my views on the proposed strategy, can I first ask, is this for your 3S engine? Are you sure it is knock limited? I would have expected your MBT ignition angle to be well away from the knock limit in an engine like this under most conditions?
-
I dont think you normally need to do any pin or jumper swaps but there is this note in the help:
Note: On some models the Fuel pump output and A/C clutch output are in opposite positions. Your base-map will need to be modified if this is the case.
Fiat Uno Turbo triggers
in G4+
Posted
Cam tooth position doesn't matter (except for what I said earlier, try not to have it occur close to the missing teeth).