Adamw
-
Posts
20,158 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1,288
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Adamw
-
-
I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy.
I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also. In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point). The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects. If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.
-
Hi Josh,
I'm not familiar enough with GPS outputs to understand the relevance of the ppk levels.
I know with speedo signals it's common to refer to PPM (pulses per Mile), so I suspect PPK = Pulses Per Kilometer...
Many GPS receivers have trouble detecting "stationary" especially when signal is poor so this might be the case here. You will need the antenna in best possible location (typically middle of roof) to reduce this effect.
Many daq systems that use gps for speed will also have some other logic to reduce this issue such as comparing gps speed to lat G or some threshold setting such as "anything below 5kmh is considered zero", I can't think of a way to duplicate logic like this in Pclink.
-
I don't have much to add on top of what Scott has already said, but I did want to point out just in case you did not know - your main ignition table (also lambda target table to less extent) is pretty extreme above 180Kpa, you will likely break the engine if you leave it like that and run into those cells...
-
Hi JM_S2,
The standard link/vipec tacho out is a 12V square wave so I would have expected it should work. The only thought I have is that maybe your tacho requires more current than the ECU internal pull up can supply. I would try splicing a 100ohm pull-up between 12V and your tacho signal wire and see if that works.
-
You need to contact your dealer and ask them for the unlock code. It wont run until you enter that. This is a security measure in case the ecu gets lost/stolen on its way to you.
-
Can you attach your .pclr also?
-
I just looked at the most recent 2JZ that I done and it was -5 too so at least there does seem to be a common theme with these. If you have no RPM showing in PC link then it suggests a trigger issue. It could also be antitheft or ecuhold power settings but I don't think the supra base maps have those functions enabled.
Can you do a trigger scope and post a screen shot here? Also do a log during cranking and post that together with your .pclr (map) here.
-
I would like to ask "Which are table/parameter of ignition to set cranking ignition timing like pre/post fuel enrichment?"
Hi Powerboy,
There is no separate "cranking ignition" table in the G4+, your timing during cranking will just come from the main ignition table.
On a engine that uses MAP based load then the 6 cells I have highlighted below would probably be where you want to look
-
Definitely trigger two wired back to front.
-
Hi Tony,
I'm not sure there is a way to do this in the software at present as its probably not something many people need to do. I'm sure it could be done electrically though - without giving it much thought probably something as simple as wiring them in parallel (or would it be series?) and write your own cal table for the combined sensors.
I am curious how much difference are you seeing? Since engine temp is normally only used for comps like warm up enrichment and charge temp its probably not too critical to be a really accurate measurement, I would have expected just one sensor that follows the general temperature trend of the engine would suffice in most cases?
-
What are your injectors? Your pulsewidth at idle is only 1.5ms, most injectors wont behave linear with such a low pulse width. This is why you are getting the hunting effect.
So unless you can get "short pulsewidth adder" info from the injector supplier, then I would suggest in the meantime the easiest fix is to lower your fuel pressure (try around 30psi). You will need to tweak the master fuel again to get it to run but then your idle pulsewidths will be in a region where the injector will work predictably. The tuner can then increase it again later before he starts mapping.
-
Woah, breaking out the retro kit there lol. That's lots of knobs & buttons to figure out...
Just a note - for low speed automotive signals you don't need anything special for probes, just the cheapest you can find will be fine.
-
If it doesn't power up when you swap jumpers around then it suggests your jumpers were correct in the first place. The tacho "key on sweep" is a ecu function that can be turned on or off in the software (and is normally enabled in the Link base maps) so this is nothing to do with your problem.
-
I notice you have the pullup's turned off. Most hall sensors are open collector type and will need the pull up turned on. So assuming this is wired standalone and you are not running this piggy backed with the stock ecu then this is the first thing I would try.
-
Hi Mr F... You.
I understand it can get frustrating when you have spent a lot of money and things don't go as smooth as expected. I'm surprised you have had trouble with Link's support however, I have always found them to be quick to reply and thorough in there help. Anyway if you are willing to persevere for a little longer I'm sure we will be able to get it right and you will be happy when it is all working good.
If you are frustrated with whoever you have been dealing with and want some independent help I would be happy to offer whatever I can remotely - I'm not a dealer or in any way tied to Link but do have quite a bit of experience with them and most other brands. I don't have a lot of experience with Subaru's in particular but am sure I could still help.
I have never seen any problems with the triggering system in the G4+ platform, it seems robust and reliable. Especially with yours being an OEM setup and PNP ecu it should be fairly straight forward with no mods required to anything.
I suggest the first step is to post a screen shot of your trigger scope.
also unhappy about not being able to upload my screen shots of the scope tracers which link obviously doesn't want people to see about the sync error the g4+ sees in the trace.
This is normal for forums to not allow images to be uploaded, this because images chew up server space quickly. You need to upload your image to a host and put a link in your post. Tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDO-qnEgeLw
As well as the trigger scope could post a PC log of the car idling and also a copy of your map. Tutorial on how to do the PC log is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
-
T4700, the arming threshold at 1/2 peak is just a common rule of thumb but in your case since you have big voltage it is probably not necessary to go that high. It doesn't appear to be a noise issue that you have so can probably leave your arming voltage alone for now. If you did want to try something different for arming voltage, I would just set it to a flat 3-5V for all RPM's (provided the voltage at cranking speed is above that).
From your explanation above that timing drifts with RPM, I think there is a good chance that your crank sensor polarity is wrong. Can you try reversing the wires on they crank sensor. You will need to redo the trigger cal after you change that.
-
but I'm not aware of any 4 or 8 channel units.
Scott
CAN info is published so I assume these would work with link too. Still probably not the best option for a 6 cylinder but thought I would mention it.
-
Yes, software and firmware has been updated since the original post, you can now have 8 lambda channels via CAN. You will probably want to use CAN for your EGT's also since you will use up your analog inputs pretty quick with 6 egts.
-
Hi T4700,
I don't see any big problems except that 135 teeth is always going to be difficult to work with for most aftermarket ecus - it will only take a very small amount of cam belt stretch or hamonics etc for the trigger 2 edge to jump across to the next tooth.
I suspect that the odd spike that is visible in some of your scope traces (example below) is probably a software artefact rather than a real problem. Maybe Link techs will have more experience to share:
Have you tried using rising edge for trigger 2?
Have you tried swapping polarity on crank trigger?
-
I vote against also. Gimmick value only, no practical use for anything to do with an ECU or tuning so I would prefer ecu software to remain focused on it's job.
As well as the needed inputs that Davidv listed, there are also 2 very influential effects that not usually considered in virtual dyno type softwares - those being road inclination and wind speed.
-
G4+ Thunder
in G4+
There are many options but here's some of the common ones:
Low cost (2 needed): https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/amplifier-dsub9-p-129.html?osCsid=54a4449aea72777b5c5299e6d2e889fe
Low cost (1 needed): http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=1814&DepartmentID=&CategoryID=&RepID=&BasketID=
More pricey but cleaner (2 needed): http://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=774
Another option would be a CAN based amp such as: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/can-egt-8-channel-thermocouple-interface/
-
We cant see much in your trigger scope since it is zoomed out so much. Can you do it again but before you take the screenshot change the time/div setting to something smaller - I forget what settings the software will allow but I think you will need a number more like 5 or 1 ms/Div to get it the image clear enough that we can see the wave form.
-
The analog output on the older analog AEM gauges was well known to be terrible, some of them didn't have a separate analog ground either which didn't help the situation. So if that's the version you have then you will have to do some fudging and accept it will never be good.
I haven't tested one of the new x-series gauges, but I have used both the new x-series inline controllers (my dyno has 4 connected via RS232) and the older LSU4.2 inline controller and both of those have very good analog outputs that match the data stream.
-
Have you put a timing light on it and done the trigger cal?
G4+ atom atandalone ECU wiring
in G4+
Posted