Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Yes, that would probably be the cleanest way to do this. You could also do it using an Aux out set up as GP output and combine that together with a virtual aux to cover the extra condition.
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We have this problem before when using ECUM*****.
Always display "This device is not able to work with US Windows version!"
At that time we use laptops bought in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, all fail.
It takes several weeks to connect ECU to laptop.Our problem is not firmware upgrade when installing ECUM*****.
ECU isnt able to connect to laptop via USB port.
Always display "This device is not able to work with US Windows version!"
This is a different and un-related problem. EMU lock their ECU's to the windows region where the ECU was originally purchased - for instance if you buy from Poland it will only work with Polish windows. Link do not do this and any ECU should be compatible with any windows region or language. My statement about region was really just to tease Dave in to "thinking outside the square" since it was starting to look like it isn't an access problem to me.
I think you have now proven there is no access problem so I hope EngineeringDave has some other ideas.
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I'm running methanol injection on my engine so I currently have the MAP limit mode set to "Ignition" since I figure if I use fuel cut, with the methanol keeps flowing the engine may experience a dangerously lean condition.
How would the fuel keep flowing if the injectors are turned off? What sort of engine do you have and are the injectors in the ports in a fairly normal position?
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some cruise switches use two wires and each switch position outputs a different resistance across the two wires
Yes, thats what I was referring to as "multiplex" above, I think that is the right term to describe this type of device?. Sometimes called MUX switches. But I dont think that is the case here, some online pics of this switch set:
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The problem is that you don't have read/write access to that folder.
Did you copy the Link G4 folder and paste it to C:\?
Dave, It almost seems like this access denied error message is bogus and perhaps not a good indication of the root cause. If the OP can install (& uninstall) PC Link then you would assume he must have write access to C:\Link G4. Could it be something seemingly unrelated like for instance windows regional/language settings that are preventing this file from being named a certain way or not allowing certain characters etc? Does that firmware file "tempqw" normally have no extension on it as shown in the error message?
Andi, another quick test you could try that might confirm if there really is any write access problem; Make a blank/empty notepad file on your desktop, name it tempqw.txt. Next, right click on it, select rename then delete the ".txt" so now you just have a blank file called "tempqw" with no extension. Copy this and try pasting it into C:\Link G4\firmware. If it pastes ok with no error message than that at least confirms your access is ok and might be another clue. Delete that file after this test.
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Are you sure that switch has only two wires? The few pics I found online show 5 wires.
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Pieter,
One other thing I just noticed that might be some of your hot start problem...
Your trigger scope posted earlier only shows about 0.16V. I dont know if that scope was taken with a hot or cold engine but reluctor type sensors will usually output less voltage with increasing temperature. The minimum value that PC Link will accept for trigger arming is 0.2V. That means the ECU will ignore any signal below 0.2V so your set up is pretty boarderline.
Typically you set arming threshold to 1/3 to 1/2 of the normal trigger output voltage. So for reliable triggering you really want your trigger output voltage to be higher - at least above 0.2V, but closer to 0.4V would be ideal. I would try reducing the sensor air gap a little and do another triggerscope.
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Andi, sorry I have no further ideas. Hopefully link techs have seen this one before and will have a solution. I don't have an old G4 to try myself.
I suggest you use the "contact us" page to send a support request with a link to this thread for the fastest response. Its Sunday here in NZ right now so Simon will be back tomorrow morning.
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The PC shows the ECU is connected,
What do you mean by this statement? Do you mean you see it in windows device manager or somewhere else? Does this car perhaps have a motorsport dash like AIM?/Racepak/Motec etc?
May this be caused by software version or would VTS told me so?
Its been a long time since I used the VTS software but I'm fairly sure it used to give a error message if firmware was too old? The Link Techs might have to confirm that when they are back on Monday. You can also try putting connection mode to manual and hit F3 key to connect.
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For cruise control, you need a minimum of 3 switches/buttons: Cruise enable, cruise set & brake pedal. A further 2 switches are optional; Cruise cancel and cruise resume. You will also need a driven wheel speed connected and working. Can you confirm you have 2 spare digital inputs + a working brake switch and wheel speed?
It seems odd that your switch has only two wires unless it is some type of multiplex, does it look like below?
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What Windows version should be used? 7, 8, 10? 32 or 64 bit?
If I had a choice I would probably say Win 7 would be the most reliable to try first - I cant remember if I have ever used it on win 10 but since the G4 software hasnt been updated since 2014, its drivers may not be well tested in win 10.
""Re-install latest version"
http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.10.2.1784 Setup.exe
Is it the latest version?
Yes.
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Ok, Even though you say you have tried different locations already, all of your screen shots above are showing the same wrong directory so I want to confirm if you get the same error message when the normal directory is used.. So one last suggestion...
Uninstall PC Link. Delete any related folders/files that the uninstall does not remove. Delete whole C:\Link G4 directory. Delete whole C:\Program files\Link G4 directory. (if you have maps or datalogs saved in these then make a copy somewhere first).
Re-install latest version in default C:\Link G4 directory. Try firmware update again and if it fails please post a screen shot of the error.
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Normally PCLink is installed in location C:\Link G4. It appears from the error message you have installed in a non-standard location? C:\program files\Link G4\PCLink G4...? Have you tried it installed in default location?
Below is the default install:
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Im not sure if this is your only problem, since I havent personally seen this problem before, but the error messages in your screenshots suggest it may be a windows privilege issue.
Is the windows user logged in with full Administration rights? If you have admin rights then the only other suggestion I can make would be to start PCLink using the "Run as Administrator" command: To do this, right click on the PCLink desktop icon, then choose "Run as Administrator" from the context menu. Try the firmware update again. If the update succeeds and you get to the "power cycle ECU" message then I suggest you not only turn ignition off but also completely unplug ecu connector (or disconnect battery) for a few seconds.
P.S. it also might be a good idea to turn off any antivirus before starting update.
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With this configuration I cannot get anything to display on the Racepak. Another side note is that when the dash is connected to the CAN wiring I lose communication with the Xseries wideband that is currently running on the CAN system.
AEM uses a bit rate of 500Kbit/s, the Dash uses 1Mbit/s, you cannot have different bit rate devices on the same CAN bus. You will have to run these on separate buses provided your ECU has two.
Try it again without the AEM connected.
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iVTS is only for the newer i88 & i44. For the V88 you need the old VTS software. Try the the latest version (4.10) first which you will find here: http://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784
This version 4.10 may not work if your ecu is still running very old firmware but start with that and it will give you an error message if you need an older version.
Once you have successful connection to the ECU, follow this guide on how to do a PC log and download the map: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Post the map and log here and one of us might be able to help.
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Good work, definitely sounds like the GT101 is the problem. The easy fix will be to drop in that cherry sensor I mentioned earlier. They can be found quite cheap in most countries, try mouser, digikey or farnell.
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So to just pull numbers out of the air... if your MAP was 202kpa, your VE was 110% and your IAT trim was +2% - perhaps you'd end up with 202 x 1.10 x 1.02 = 227 MagicLithUnits and it'd be a familiar looking scale... and one which would arguably be more portable, if you know what I mean?
On the other hand g/cyl is locked to that engine's displacement etc.
Interesting topic for sure and Im curious enough to try to understand more about it... I'm not sure I agree with the "familiar looking scale" comment though. For instance at idle and cruise - say where you typically have 50Kpa & 50% VE, then wouldnt your load axis number end up something like 25 - how would that be a familiar looking scale or more portable? I can see how it will make the table flatter but that seems only because the axis scale has been exaggerated.
Obviously airflow is the best load source but it rarely be practical to work with. For instance how would you tune such a table? With a more traditional load axis you can use a dyno to hold MAP and RPM constant to tune a cell but with this suggested load axis, your tuning cell would drift around as soon charge temp increases.
If you have some experience with another ecu brand that uses this strategy can you PM me the details just so I can try to understand better how they use it or what the idea behind it is?
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Actually, if it were an option (I just pulled estimated airflow/cylinder out because it was an existing parameter which was arguably a better load measure than just MAP) would be:
(MAP x VE) / IAT
I think there are different "nicknames" for that by other brands, but it basically adds up as meaning that the ignition table look up is done off cylinder filling at that moment but is still semi-intuitive to work with as it is normalised - the airflow numbers would be relatively arbitrary by comparison. Apologies for not making the first post a bit clearer in regards to what was hoping to achieve.
The parameter name "Air per cylinder estimated" would indicate to me that VE & Charge temp are probably already factored into it and will give you exactly what you are looking for. Maybe Scott can confirm by trying a demo on his simulator by adjusting charge temp input only, then adjust VE only and see how/if they affect the "estimated air per cylinder" parameter.
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Can you post a PC log, preferably showing the oscillation.
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g4+ Logging
in G4+
Scott beat me to it, I had a similar reply half written...
There are 8 megabits in a megabyte.
However in my experience even in fairly complex applications this is plenty with proper consideration of logging rate for each channel. You should be able to achieve much more than 17mins with 60ch of typical parameters. Most temp sensors for instance will only need 0.5 or 1Hz. Many others such as wheel speed, aux outs etc don't need anymore than about 10Hz. 25Hz is plenty for most of the critical engine/fuel parameters. You should only need 50 or 100Hz for a few select channels or when you are chasing a specific problem. I have never noticed the downloads to be slow - from memory it only seems like maybe 30 seconds for a full log? How long is yours taking?
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Further to Simon's advice, if you still have access to your scope could you connect it to the crank sensor and do a capture of the engine cranking.
Although I have seen the GT101 work quite successfully on many applications, I have heard many experienced people say never to use them on missing tooth wheels even if your tooth count and size fits within the recommended range. The reason is they are not just a hall sensor but they also have some logic built into them to correct for minor wheel run-out and tooth timing variations - so when a missing tooth appears they try to correct for it and distort the wave form around that area. This may be what is happening at cranking speeds so a scope trace should hopefully confirm if this is the case.
If this turns out to be your problem then there is an alternative sensor from Cherry or ZF that is a direct drop in replacement (search for Cherry GS101202), it does not have this built in "logic" and has higher frequency range so is more suitable for missing tooth wheels.
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Can you pull the fuel pump fuse/relay out and do a PC log of the engine cranking. Post the log and your map here and we will have a look if anything looks odd.
Video of how to do the log here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A&t=3s
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Or provided you have 2 aux outs available, it will probably be tidier to do it like this:
G4+ wire-in to 3sge with itb's
in G4+
Posted
Further to Scott's comments, I still highly suspect triggering is most of your problem. A couple more comments: After shifting the throttle linkage you will need to re-calibrate the TP sensor. I would suggest you dont mess around with cold start maps yet, the defaults are usually close enough to run most enines. Start by making changes to just the Master fuel setting until it runs ok warm.