Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Mark. Thanks for the update... Glad you have that sorted now. Widest slot on your typical SR20 COP is 16, so you have that right too Jurgen

Hi Richard. Unfortunatley 65K ohms is the maximum number you can set up in that CAL. There is a way around this however, and seeing as you are doing your own CAL it shouldn't bother you too much. Try putting a resistor in parallel with the temp sender. Effectively as the IAT sensor is a resistor in itself, so the output resistance can be manipulated this way. This would basically mean bridging the temp channel in question (IAT signal in), to the signal ground wire. This could be done anywhere on the loom to keep it tidy, even by the main ECU plug. For example, using a 100K resistor in parallel, will see the 'old' 20K reading, now as 16.6K etc. Let me know how you get on. You could choose a specific resistance to run in parallel to get the most out of the span you have to use if you wanted to get that detailed. Jurgen

Hi Eddie. Unfortunately it is a security feature meaning if you could remove it, it wouldn't be a very good one. The only solution you have is either retrieving this password from the tuner who set it, OR; Resetting the ECU to factory settings meaning you will loose the tune existing in there already. Clearly none of these options are your ideal. Good thing - Security works well... Bad thing - There is no way around this for your situatoin unless you hit up that tuner. Jurgen

Hi Ryan. With the existing ballast resistors in place you will be fine. Per injector, I understand you have a total impedance of 8.8ohms? To hang 4 injectors off each drive with an 8.8ohm load from each injector line is OK. No further ballasting than this is required. Jurgen

Hi Fagadar. Please view this topic here, as it is exactly the same thing as you have just asked. http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/386128840 Jurgen

Hi Jan. Our ST205 Celica/MR2 plug in should fit your vehicle without issue if you have all of the OE wiring loom in there. It has been specifically designed and pinned out to match your plug with minimal to no wiring needed. This plug in does not have an on-board MAP sensor as the car has an OE one fitted to the car already. However the boost you want to put in to it may not be handled by this sensor natively, requiring you to purchase an external one. My recommendation for you at this stage is to go for this plug in, and an external Link MAP sensor. The 2.5bar should be enough for you at this stage, as it can do up to 1.5bar positive or ~22lbs. If you plan to use a higher boost setting than this in the future, I would go for the Link 4bar MAP sensor allowing for up to ~43lbs of boost (3bar positive pressure). If you have not got the OE wiring harness in the car, a G4 Storm should be your next pick. The G4 Storm has a 4bar sensor already on board, so if you went this way an external one should not be required. With either of these systems, you will be able to ditch the MAF restriction as you will be tuning against a MAP load only and it will not be needed. Jurgen

Hi Mark. What is the widest slot turned out being in your trigger cal? Is the car COP, wasted, or distributed ignition? Jurgen

Hi Paul. You are correct on all counts. It is like this as an entry level item by design, and you will have to move to a G4 Storm or better for infinately variable cams (ie. Not switched only). Jurgen

Hi Brett. No, the DisplayLink is purely a display only. There is no form of control over the ECU at all. How about a nice new G4 Jurgen

We try... Thanks Carlos.

No problem. You're not trying to connect with the car running are you? This can be OK, but there could be a couple things related to engine running and no comms. Jurgen

Carlos. Just be aware that a G3 with G4 firmware means your pin out and some stuff changes slightly. What was ANload 1,2, 3 in the G3 - Becomes ANvolt 1, 2, 3 on the G4 Firmware. And what was ANvolt 1, 2, 3 in G3 - Now becomes ANvolt 4, 5, 6. This means to make use of the wideband signal as you have set it up on ANvolt 4, you need to wire it to the original ANvolt 1 on a G3 pin out, and to use your ANvolt 5 if it's spare, wire it to the original ANvolt2. I know this sounds confusing, but once you wrap your head around that you'll be away. Make sense? Jurgen

No prob, glad I could help. Jurgen

Hi David. Hard to tell how you have it wired from the description (photo of crappy hand drawn images accepted ), but yes to the triggers if you have FP. If you are using a G1 LEM and have a 3S-GTE wanting to run wasted, I would be wiring it as IGN #1 to 1 & 4, and IGN #2 to 3 & 2 (assuming your firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2). Then have the IGN setup as wasted. Seeing 12v on the injector line is OK because this is the feed supply you are seeing from the other end, it will only go "LOW" when it sees an injection event. It's only a coil/solenoid thing the injector, so this is normal. Also, on the ignition thing, you are most likely using a multimeter - This just can't operate fast enough to show you whats happening on that very quickly "pulsed" line. Let me know if this helps at all. Jurgen

Hi Cory. You're right on the money buddy! Just keep ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ until you see the "STORE", then HOLD the up AND down on the very left of the remote to activate the store. You should see a bunch of asterix come up when it happens. Let the screen come right after that, key off and back on and you should be in. PS. The code you are using is correct. Jurgen

PS. I have deleted the identical thread in the G3 Forum... Once is enough

Hi Trent. The possibility exists that it could be the ECU, however 95% of the time it is not. I would definately try another cable, as if it has been damaged it can cause these things to happen. Trying different USB ports was a smart move, not a silly thing you tried at all. I thought you had, but can't find it in the post... Tried another PC? Give that a go too if you haven't, and also make sure you have not got anything else plugged in to the serial/CAN port... NOT EVEN AN EXTENSION CABLE. This can often stop communications. Failing that I am running out of ideas. I have no problem with you sending it in for testing, but I do not know where you are from. If on the other side of the world, then I want to make sure we have covered everything before you spend on freight. Jurgen

Hi Fagadar. Good move on asking, that's why we are here No it will not be a problem to sit on 100% DC (fan off) all day long if you wanted to. And the way you have the map now looks good. I haven't tested it on the sim as there is no need. PS. I like how you did the vehicle speed thing... Jurgen

Hi Carlos. By my calculations you should have 1 more ANvolt free to wire the 0-5v in to. If you are trying to use this as Knock Control, then you need an ANvolt, not a DI. Jurgen

Hi Karim. Any particular reason? Jurgen

That's kind of a cool idea Cameron. I'll mention that. Jurgen

Tom. Are you suggesting you do not have 12 tables on the G4's G3 now? Can you send me your .PCL Jurgen

We hear you Ross. A lot of people do ask for this, and justifyably. It will be something to come in the future maybe, but there are so many more priorities to get completed first. Jurgen

Hi Trent. We'll get no where if you don't confirm the questions needed... Just to refresh: Make sure the fundamentals are there first by confirming these things. Can you see the Link ECU in the Windows device manager when plugged in to it? It should appear under 'Ports'. If this is not appearing, you most likely have not got the USB driver installed, or it is having a problem with the port it has been assigned. You get the option to say 'yes' or 'no' during install to have the driver installed or not... Did you say 'yes' to this? Win XP or Win 7 has nothing to do with it. Jurgen

Hi Alberto. Cool! Glad to hear you resolved that one. If you are talking about your AFR target table, wouldn't running it RPM vs. MAP make more sense? No good setting it to boost target if you have not reached boost target... And what happens when you're not on boost. Jurgen