Jurgen Biggelaar

Fantastic. Thanks for the update David. Jurgen

Paul. There is not a set date for this as yet, however I can say that it probably won't be that much further away. I promise nothing, as things can go not as expected sometimes (as you would well know), but I do know it is one of the things we would like to see happening soon. Hang in there... Jurgen

Hi Rod. The 4AGE = 4 & 1; OR 24 & 1; OR 24 & 4 & 1. These have been the combos over Toyota's years. The 4AGZE = 24 & 1 and always has been as far as I am aware. Do you have an oscilliscope at your disposal? If not, it's pretty hard to see whats going on. The first thing that popped out at me was the trig2 setting of 'sync mode'... this is incorrect. You need to set this to Cam Pulse 1x'. I'd be inclined to set those arming thresholds to the default numbers and leave the filtering on 'low' for the time being. Having a 'GREEN' and a 'YES' does NOT necessarily mean that trigger inputs are wired correrctly when it comes to reluctor sensors. It means it can see the signal, but it may still have an inverted polarity on one or either of the sensors (this is where a scope is handy). The fact it has run before is not a clear statement to me, because if you mean you got it to start but it was really hairy... the possibility exists that it could have done this with a reversed polarity reluctor sensor too. Unlikely but possible. On the other hand if it was running sweet, I can understand why you are a bit baffled. Jurgen

By using a G4 Link Xtreme... It has 8 channels of fuel/ignition. Jurgen

Dang! That's annoying. Send us your log file so I can have a look at it. In fact it would be best sent to [email protected]. Jurgen

Hi Brett. Cool, I can't see that being screwed up too badly, so on to the next thing. I am wondering is if it says in the runtime info (F12), 'RPM LIMIT ACTIVATED'. If so, this is not a function of ECU temperature, but most likely ECT temp across the limit table, as you can specify what RPM limit you want at any given temperature. Go in to 'Limits' in the PCLink menu, and just spot that table out. Does the limit match the temperature at the time this is happening? Jurgen

This is a limitation. You can either have one or the other at this time, you're not going nuts... Your investigation is dead on. Jurgen

So what car do both of you have?

Hi Brett. That's not right aye... 50 or 60degC maybe when it's getting real hot, but not 70! Most of the componentry is rated to like 80degC, but the ECU will not function properly above 70degC ish, it will start shutting down on ya at that rate. I would suggest looking at wiring to see that there is not too much current being drawn by something, or if it is in the OEM floor positoin, has there been carpet/insulation removed and the pipes run under the floor there or something? Jurgen

Hi Jason. Ross is dead on... What car type do you have? Jurgen

Hi Jordi. I would personally use the on board MAP sensor on the Link ECU. To adjust the tune, you will either have to connect using PCLink v2.5 if it is capable; OR use a hand controller if you have one. These are no longer made by us, and are pretty hard to find. Jurgen

Thanks Vern... I knew you were the man! Jurgen

Hi Gene. I don't quite understand what you are trying to achieve. What do you mean exactly by "drop"? You want to change it, "drop" one in? Can you be a little more specific? Jurgen

Hi Johnathon. I am not allowed to talk increases in KW because this can be very different between vehicles and their conditions, so lets just put it this way. I don't think it is out of scope to achieve the intended increase in KW with a little more boost Fuel economy will be dependant on the style of tune, but it won't nessesarily be more or less economical if you have more power (be prepared for either). I don't have a dyno plot, but I will contact our Ausi distributor to see if they have one to show you... They're in Townsville. Jurgen

Heya Jason. These guys will have most of it... Not cheap stuff though man. Hopefully this link takes you right to the connectors section. http://www.msel.co.nz/epages/shop.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Categories/Connectors Jurgen

I would doubt that, but i'll wait for your photos and we'll go from there.

Hi Bill. Attached is a snapshot of where to find the selection, and on the same snap I have shown the settings window below, this is what comes up when selected. After entering info in to these fields, don't forget to press enter to make the cell accept it. Jurgen

Hi Jordi. It sounds very different to any software code I have seen. Can you please send me a photo of the inside of your ECU (preferably with a camera, not a phone so is a good shot). Are you running a TPS signal to the ECU? Jurgen

Hi Ken. Your best bet if you want to get good at this stuff is to go on a course. http://www.efi101.com/ do several reputable courses. Getting good is also trial and error for a lot of people, but you have an awfully nice motor to 'error' on. May be get on side with a tuner in your area, work for free on the weekends for them and learn that way? Jurgen

Wahoo! Nice work Joseph.

Hi Zane. You want to use PCLink v2.5 (first one for G1's only). http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV25 Jurgen

Jason. It really is a matter of personal opinion from what I have found... I have been a believer in solder all my life, however have also recently been told it doesn't last. I would imagine if you solder non-contaminated wire and follow 'best' proceedures, then heatshrink with a glue style inard should seal this from the air, and give the join support. I can't really see any problems with this. Then there are the pros I have been talking to recently, that will swear black and blue that the hermetically sealed Deutsch connectors are the way to go. These are; or are similar to the original OEM style connectors found in most Japanese cars from the '90s onwards. FYI... These are crimped only, and I have driven many reliable Japanese cars that are 10-20 years old. You will never find anyone to agree to anything specific on this subject, as it is all very opinion based (please no-one flame me over that LOL), but I am sure if you check out how a formula car is wired, they would use what they have found to be the best, and I would trust that Jurgen

I see. After searching 'data stream command' in the help file within PCLink contents, you will find the following... Reference Information: The following information is provided for users wishing to develop their own data display or acquisition system: · Datastream Request Command · Status Request Command · Units Request Command · Short Datastream Layout · Long Datastream Layout · Bitfield Definitions Going in to each one of those will show you the parametres you may have concerns about. Jurgen

Hi Bill. O2 Heater function is operable for both... It's about as smart as a GP Output and works the same way. If you have the outputs, you may as well. It can destroy parts of the sensor if the heater is on (key on) and engine off. I will sometimes sit in my car waiting for the Mrs and have the wipers on for instance (which needs key on). May be you could set conditions to say only >400rpm, so your engine will have to be running for it to be heating. You are bang on with the adjusting of the output from the LC-1 (by not letting it output 5v), as most times it will throw a 'at 5V' code when you hit over-run, backing off the gas pedal. If you would like to disable any ANVolt error high/low fault codes from coming up at all, you can input 0v for the low and/or 5v for the high to disable either or both. Jurgen

Hi Mike. There is a combo of reasons why it is like this, but the main one with flat shift would really be the time it takes to change gear... Really fast. So fast in fact, that there really isn't enough time to phase fuel back in correctly. With the other features, there is a phasing in type function going on in the back ground, reinroducing fuel/spark in the correct manner where applicable. Jurgen