Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Jim. Is it reading 100 odd KPA at rest... ie. making sense there? Does the MAP reading move at all when trying to operate the engine. What is the lowest vacuum it is seeing? Press the F12 key and see the figures exactly under the Analogue tab/Analogue data. You can also see the voltages in the other window on the same tab. Jurgen

PCLink help file is very good on this subject Roger, load that up and have a look. It is hard to get your head around it for the first time, but the easiest way to explain it would be... Think of the / in Exhaust / LH as an 'or'. As some cars have inlet only, some have inlet outlet, and those that have a 'banked' scenario (ie V6, V8, Subaru EJ etc), they may have up to 2 inlet cams and 2 exhaust cams. So. If you have inlet only, ignore the /LH and /RH, as it matters not in this case, because it is INLET and EXHAUST only. For you however, you have a V6, so you would need to choose Inlet RH for the inlet physically on the right, and the Inlet /LH for your physical inlet cam on the left side. The same applies to the exhaust cam lables too if you have these. Exhaust RH for the physical exhaust cam on the right, and Exhaust /LH for the other side. I myself still get fuddled with this and have to think about it, so if you have a better labeling suggestion we would be quite keen to consider it. Main rule is, as long as the labels match on the AUX for the respective cams, you should be away laughing. I say left and right as though your sitting in the drivers seat looking forward. I hope this mess of an explanation gets you through it Set the AUX as VVT Solenoid & The DI to VVT Cam position... Unless sharing triggers, then the shared trigger should be selected as the appropriate label as described above. There. I think that covers it Jurgen

Let us know how you get on Jim. Also, what FW revision are you running? Jurgen

Cool, please do Nick. *sniggers away with selfish reasoning* Jurgen

Hi Martin. Are you communicating on a COM port below 10... The update has real issues if it is above it, and can do lots of strange stuff. Don't really want to comment on the RPM limit thing until we get you on to 4.6.9 really. One thing at a time Jurgen

Hi Ryan. Hit F12 on the keyboard and go to Triggers/Limits tab. There you will see a box with Trigger Status, which is the information you are looking for. All of these results should show you exactly where you are with it. Martin is bang on with the injector timing, start with 400deg there, and look at this later for fine tuning a bit more crispness in your throttle. For the ignition timing, have you read the help file? It is very clear and very helpful. This is the FIRST thing you should be doing with your engine/ECU after all of the recommended testing has been carried out. You must choose your base timing 10deg BTDC for example, and then the offset adjustment will move the timing mark on the crank pulley using your timing light, until you reach your desired 'Base' (which is the one just mentioned above). Jurgen

Hi Nick. Don't be going tearing in to your dash so quickly Mine already had a wire to the ECU for speed function. Mine sat on pin 32 (DI5) as yours does, so just make sure you have some form of calibratoin there. Picking it is the same as mine... So I have attached a shot of my speed set up. See how that goes, because you should not need to modify anything really. Unless you mean your going to try and modify it for the key sweep thing Jurgen

Hi Nick. Have you tried leaving the speedo as it is because it works, and then just tee in to the VSS to take that to the ECU for speed in DI. It sounds like you have a speedo geared to respond to a reluctor signal, which the Link can't output. If the speedo was PWM, then no problem. This is also the reason you can't do sweep on speedo, as it won't respond to the PWM output from INJ8 like the Tacho does (as that is PWM). I pretty much have the same set up as you, and this is what works for me. It just sux that PWM speedos came out a bit more commonly in the later years of cars... Mines a 4x4 '92 Primera. I want key sweep on both too If by some amazing chance it is PWM, the possibility exists that you have not set a multiplier on the speedo out, as PWM sig x zero = zero. Pop a 1 in there if this is the case, but I doubt it. Jurgen

Hi Edwin. Good work, you are bang on. Honda's use an inverted ignition signal... So you would have also felt the coils get hot as they sat high, just at key on only with no engine running. Jurgen

Hi Nick. The possibility exists that either the cam signal is a little weak at the low RPM's, or the offsets have been set a little incorrectly. For the first option, this is why the cam RPM lock out in the set up exists, so it doesn't even look at them until above x RPM. For the second option, just follow the PCLink help on setting up the VT cam offset... It actually is quite good. Anymore issues, please don't hesitate to jump on here again, or contact [email protected]. It would be good to see a post of the outcome here if you can. Jurgen

Hi Anthony. Steve is on the right path there. The basic construct to give you an overall idea are the wires going out to the car from the 'plug in' are all either wired from one of the following 3. Of course there are a couple of other things like grounds and +ve supplies and so on too, but for the purpose of the description this is adequate. 'Digital Input', otherwise known as a DI (takes input from things that go on/off, maybe a switch, a digital signal etc) 'Auxillary', known as an AUX (output that drives things like fuel pump, cam solenoids, AC clutches etc) 'ANVolt' (takes a variable signal in from things such as TPS, MAP, Wideband O2 etc) The next bit to understand, is in line with each available input/output (I/O), there will be an associated channel within PCLink to set up for the particular function. For example: Your TPS will output a variable voltage from 0-5v, so this has to be wired to an ANVolt (plug in will already have this wired for you though). Once you select the appropriate function for that channel ie. TPS (main), it now knows this voltage is from the TPS. PCLink is very powerful, and cannot be explained entirely here as you would imagine, I just wanted to give you the principal, and let you know when these windows pop up when selecting functions, you can use the padlock to lock them there, so they are not replaced with the next choice. In fact make your own tabs, name them what you want, put what ever gauges you want on them, MAKE IT YOUR OWN! It's quite cool really. I realise you may already know some of this stuff, but if I get this out on a post, others that do njot entirely understand may be able to take advantage of this description. View the following video for a brief example on this - Jurgen

Hi Jason. I think most people would be a little jubious of offering advice with next to, or in fact no information about the vehicle at all. Even if you did tell us all about it, every car responds a little differently. I think what I am trying to say is if you had a specific problem, told us all about the detail of the car ie. I have a 2.0L SR20 '92 Primera, standard injectors, distributed ignition and it keeps missing at 3300RPM, I have tried X, Y and Z and getting no where... you would get a bit more of a response. Not bashing you at all, but trying to give you an understanding that things just aren't as simple as "can you give me some tips". Is it a race car application, what fuel do you run, how is the map running in the vehicle? All these things help people give educated answers. If you have a specific problem or interest, and the manual can't cover it then hit us again... Just need a bit more info. Cheers. Jurgen

Hi Scott. The LinkPlus has an onboard MAP sensor which would be best used unless you are running more than about 22lbs of boost. Just plumb up some vacuum hose from the manifold to the ECU, and the port is just next to the main plug on the unit. The software you need is PCLink v2.5 available here... http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV25 I can't help with a wiring diagram so to speak... But section 8.1 and 9.1 of one of the Nissan manuals found here may give you some good clues (I know it's G4 but the cars are still the same). http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation You will also need a SerialLink to talk to the box with your PC. Jurgen

Hi Keefe. That chip was intended for the older RS Legacy '89-'90 ish. The chip you want is WRXROADQ. Jurgen

Hi Lester. This is correct. In the G4 systems you are to wire the ignition outputs 1, 2, 3... etc, to cylinder 1, 2, 3... etc. The firing order is completely controlled by the ECU firmware, and is set in the main configuration settings (very top of the ECU Settings menu). Jurgen

^ +1 ^ Ballast Resistors are the key if they are low impedence (<6 ohms). Jurgen

Hi Wayne. I can't help you with a map, however there should be no reason it wouldn't be as good using large injectors... Sounds like one of those urban legends to me Large injectors in the past have typically been low impedance which I think is where the myth might be born from, but the Link systems have always been able to drive any injectors, except diesel ones Just make sure if they measure <6 ohms (low impedance), that you are using ballast resistors. Jurgen

Hi Matt. I hope I am not missing the point completly here, but if the ECU will be aware of the speed input from the rear, and it knows RPM, then it by default it will know which gear you are in (when calibrated correctly). Your statement 'We will run a rear wheel speed sensor anyway and will let the ECU calculate the gear for ECU functions' is what has thrown me. Why would you just not use the RS232 data to the dash for it's display if this contains 'gear' already? Not that I can promise anything here, but what gear box/sensor brand/model are you using, as we may want to add it as a function someday. Also, if you have the output resistance for each gear, this would help us a great deal in implementing such a feature. Jurgen

Hi Fredde. This should be no problem at all, as long as they are not too lower impedance. 1-2ohm injectors would not be suitable for operation like this as they will draw far too much current. If your 'pair' of injectors tries to pull more the 8A peak or 1.5 A hold total current, on the one injector drive; it is likely that you will end up with poor performance from the injectors and is not recommended. Jurgen

Hi Ron. What is the combination of adapters and leads, and also the process you are determining this non-function with? Are you using a USB to serial adapter to simulate the native serial port on your laptop? If so, is the adapter seen by Windows (under ports or USB in the device manager)? A common problem is serial port number 10 and above trying to be used. Make sure it's all trying to talk over COM PORT 9 or below. COM 12 will not work, where as COM 5 would for example. Jurgen

Hi Wayne. Even though the following information is from a G4 manual, the pins are still the same on the car. So just check out the manual I have provided the link to below and specifically view sections 8.1 and 9.1. These are pin outs and functions of... Should get you most of the way. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/Toyota_MR2_Celica_ST185.pdf Jurgen

Hi Cameron. Thanks for sharing that... What a nice looking build! Very tidy. Jurgen

No prob Matt. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Lester. Have you got a wideband installed? If so, the default numbers in the Xtreme should be reasonable enough to at least start the engine, idle, and drive on to a trailor or dyno. What you will have to do is adjust the master fuel number up/down to achieve an acceptable AFR reading from the wideband. Of course when doing this, keep a very close eye on ECT's. Jurgen

Hi Daniel. In short I cannot give you specifics about what will change what, but what I can tell you is that at 16psi it would not be uncommon to see temps as high as this or higher. I cannot offer you anymore than that I am afraid. Jurgen